H3 Damn... another transfer case failure???? no 4 wheel low when I need it.

[reaper]

Front and rear driveshafts removed... this means: tcase party on Wednesday.

 

[twinmill28]

I'm thinking one of the new manual t-cases (can't remember the name right now) that everybody is putting in their hard core trucks. Just a lever to actuate and no wacky electronics.
If not that, I'd be hunting a 4:1 Adventure case for sure. I was amazed at how scary the 2 was coming down the same steep slopes I'd done pretty effortlessly with my 3. The Adventure 4:1 crawl raitio is insane!
BTW--what's the answer for putting a crawl in the 2 anyway? Man, I hated that brake to the floor, 6600 pound pointed down sensation......

 

[reaper]

I already have the low-gear adventure case. The plan is to pull it off, see an obvious thing to replace, and fix it with little effort. Sounds like a plan, right? Well, we'll see on Wednesday.

 

[06 H3]

I'm thinking one of the new manual t-cases (can't remember the name right now) that everybody is putting in their hard core trucks. Just a lever to actuate and no wacky electronics.
If not that, I'd be hunting a 4:1 Adventure case for sure. I was amazed at how scary the 2 was coming down the same steep slopes I'd done pretty effortlessly with my 3. The Adventure 4:1 crawl raitio is insane!
BTW--what's the answer for putting a crawl in the 2 anyway? Man, I hated that brake to the floor, 6600 pound pointed down sensation......

Atlas t cases?

 

[reaper]

Ummm, WHICH tools do I really need????

Ok, (SPECIFICALLY, BEBE IF YOU'RE LISTENING!!!)

Here's the "required" tools for the rebuild (from the manual). I found them over here: https://gmspecialservicetools.spx.com But... the price on these is ridiculuous. I could just buy another tcase for the cost of these tools!!!

So.... someone who knows more than I do-- what tools should I buy before attempting this? Are there any "must have" tools in this list versus "nice to have"? And... how about snap-on equivalents? (would be readily available versus waiting for shipping...)
TRANSFER CASE DISASSEMBLE

J 2619-01 Slide Hammer
J 3289-20 Holding Fixture

J 6125-1B Slide Hammer with Adapter

J 8614-01 Flange and Pulley Holding Tool
J 22912-B Rear Pinion and Axle Bearing Remover

J 23129 Universal Seal Remover

J 23907 Slide Hammer with Bearing Adapter

J 29369-1 Bushing and Bearing Remover

J 45278 Seal Remover. See Special Tools.

J 45358 Case Spreader. See Special Tools.

J 45380 Transfer Case Rear Bushing Remover and Installer. See Special Tools.
J 45548 Mainshaft Support Bushing/Bearing Remover. See Special Tools.

J 45759 Assembly Fixture. See Special Tools.

 

[bebe]

I'm thinking one of the new manual t-cases (can't remember the name right now) that everybody is putting in their hard core trucks. Just a lever to actuate and no wacky electronics.
If not that, I'd be hunting a 4:1 Adventure case for sure. I was amazed at how scary the 2 was coming down the same steep slopes I'd done pretty effortlessly with my 3. The Adventure 4:1 crawl raitio is insane!
BTW--what's the answer for putting a crawl in the 2 anyway? Man, I hated that brake to the floor, 6600 pound pointed down sensation......

Atlas - They are just about as reliable as the borg warner....

For the 2 you could look into the Klune-v

 

[bebe]

Ok, (SPECIFICALLY, BEBE IF YOU'RE LISTENING!!!)

Here's the "required" tools for the rebuild (from the manual). I found them over here: https://gmspecialservicetools.spx.com But... the price on these is ridiculuous. I could just buy another tcase for the cost of these tools!!!

So.... someone who knows more than I do-- what tools should I buy before attempting this? Are there any "must have" tools in this list versus "nice to have"? And... how about snap-on equivalents? (would be readily available versus waiting for shipping...)
TRANSFER CASE DISASSEMBLE

J 2619-01 Slide Hammer
J 3289-20 Holding Fixture
J 6125-1B Slide Hammer with Adapter
J 8614-01 Flange and Pulley Holding Tool
J 22912-B Rear Pinion and Axle Bearing Remover
J 23129 Universal Seal Remover
J 23907 Slide Hammer with Bearing Adapter
J 29369-1 Bushing and Bearing Remover
J 45278 Seal Remover. See Special Tools.
J 45358 Case Spreader. See Special Tools.
J 45380 Transfer Case Rear Bushing Remover and Installer. See Special Tools.
J 45548 Mainshaft Support Bushing/Bearing Remover. See Special Tools.
J 45759 Assembly Fixture. See Special Tools.

I would think the slide hammer with adapters (bearing pullers) are mandatory, make sure you have a nice brass hammer or the lucite one. Slide hammers will make the job a lot easier. And find someone in your area with a hydraulic press....just in case something is being stubborn.

 

[bebe]

Isn't everything ridiculously easy for you


Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

Not everything. I tried picking up these two extremely hot bisexual chicks for a threesome... it didn't end well, at least, not for me

:giggle:

 

[reaper]

I would think the slide hammer with adapters (bearing pullers) are mandatory, make sure you have a nice brass hammer or the lucite one. Slide hammers will make the job a lot easier. And find someone in your area with a hydraulic press....just in case something is being stubborn.

Thanks Bebe! I ordered this from my local Napa Auto Parts for $88... (I can return it unused if it isn't what I need...). From Snap-On this tool is ridiculuous, hopefully this one will do. Stay tuned... Wednesday is the teardown day!!!

 

[reaper]

Under-armor and prop-shafts removed:

 

[backcountryislife]

Gravy... We'll have that thing torn out & split in record time!

 

[reaper]

About to do a little :hack: :grind: :weld:

 

[backcountryislife]

I've got all three if you want me to bring them...:wink:

 

[alrock]

Hopefully you won't get frustrated and choose this route :ba:

 

[reaper]

I'm sure if you bring 'em we'll use 'em. Maybe we'll get at that steering rack too? Because I won't be driving it anytime soon...

 

[MaxPF]

Ok, (SPECIFICALLY, BEBE IF YOU'RE LISTENING!!!)

Here's the "required" tools for the rebuild (from the manual). I found them over here: https://gmspecialservicetools.spx.com But... the price on these is ridiculuous. I could just buy another tcase for the cost of these tools!!!

So.... someone who knows more than I do-- what tools should I buy before attempting this? Are there any "must have" tools in this list versus "nice to have"? And... how about snap-on equivalents? (would be readily available versus waiting for shipping...)
TRANSFER CASE DISASSEMBLE

J 2619-01 Slide Hammer
J 3289-20 Holding Fixture
J 6125-1B Slide Hammer with Adapter
J 8614-01 Flange and Pulley Holding Tool
J 22912-B Rear Pinion and Axle Bearing Remover
J 23129 Universal Seal Remover
J 23907 Slide Hammer with Bearing Adapter
J 29369-1 Bushing and Bearing Remover
J 45278 Seal Remover. See Special Tools.
J 45358 Case Spreader. See Special Tools.
J 45380 Transfer Case Rear Bushing Remover and Installer. See Special Tools.
J 45548 Mainshaft Support Bushing/Bearing Remover. See Special Tools.
J 45759 Assembly Fixture. See Special Tools.

I thought you were rebuilding a t-case? Most of the above tools are for diff work. Only thing you should need for a t-case are basic hand tools and good snap ring pliers.

 

[MaxPF]

Atlas - They are just about as reliable as the borg warner....

The BW is more reliable than an Atlas? :giggle:

For the 2 you could look into the Klune-v

Bad idea on a highway driven rig. They hold very little oil, and so will tend to overheat it very easily.

 

[LEEEZARD7]

tc rebuilds are not hard. take your time and check your tolerances and bearings. i would stick with the factory tc unless this is a trail specific rig tho. atlas is good tho. i have a 7075 cased gear driven 205 in my monster truck with changeable gear ratios. never had a problem holding 1400hp and 1200ft lbs of torque. lol

 

[backcountryislife]

Oka, we got it torn out and down, and found 'the' problem...

When you turn the shaft that moves the shift fork, it doesn't lift the shift fork enough to fully engage.

No signs of damage, NO shavings, nothing appears wrong aside from the positioning being wrong. If you space the end of the worm drive shaft from the case, it works perfectly.

Makes me think there's a washer missing, or something was installed wrong on the last rebuild.

Odd.

Btw for future reference, no special tools required at all. T40 and a 30mm socket were the two things we didn't have handy.

Spread the cases with a built, washer, and a nut. Gravy.

Sent from my A200 using Tapatalk 2

 

[reaper]

Teardown Pics!!!!

Backcountryislife came down to help me out... this is DEFINITELY not a 1 person job. Taking it off of the truck was the toughest part... but here's some pics of the fun part. (BIG THANKS to Backcountryislife for coming down to assist!!!)

Here's the tcase removed:


The driveshaft connection on the right of the pic-- the front driveshaft-- was a little tough. We had to go and buy a new socket (30mm I think, will update this post eventually) to get that off. We were able to hold it still with 2 driveshaft bolts and a crowbar while using an electric impact on it.

After that, we had to make another tool run to buy a TORQ socket... I think it was 40 or 45, I don't recall, but we got it as part of a Brake Caliper Torq Set ($10 at O'Reilly).

Splitting the case was a little tough... until we made a case-splitter from a bolt and nut and ratcheting wrench:



It comes apart a little something like this:


Here's the guts:



Bonus pics: Here's some pictures of the naked underbelly:


Diagnosis post to come soon.

 

[reaper]

Diagnosis so far, primer on how the TCase works

Here's a good primer on how the TCase works/shifts.

On the first picture, this is looking from the front towards the back. The black thing sticking out on the right is the shift cam that the encoder motor turns.



On the left, you can see a pinhole on the back of the case. That is the pinhole where the shift cam plugs into. When it spins, the grooves in the cam push the shift fork over on the right into 4 low. You can manually do this and feel the difference between 4 hi and 4 low.


The problem I have is that when the shift cam is properly inserted all the way in, it causes the gears (on the right in the photo) to grind. But if you pull it out just a hair (like the size of a washer or two) you're in 4 wheel low and happy as a clam. I could seriously just throw a washer or two in there, put it back together, and I'd be good to go.

So I'm taking it like this to the dealer mechanic for further diagnosis/recommendation. It looks like it's poor assembly, or a defective case. Maybe the assembly on the right is missing something. The problem is that the shift cam is adjustable by just a few millimeters, which is WACKY, which would cause it to work for a while and then all of a sudden stop working (like what I experienced). Like backcountryislife said, there were no worn gears or broken parts inside... it's just a matter of the thing being put together wrong. We'll know more next week (this isn't my top priority right now... even though I do want it done right away.)

On the procedure: it was a bit of work getting it taken off, but not all that scary. Intimidating yes, but not super-complicated. I would recommend this route to anyone with tcase problems, over taking it to someone. The case itself isn't all that complicated, it's all mechanical, there's no reason to pay a shop $1500 for the job.

 

[jakesz28]

What is a good price for the 4494 (or NR6) transfer case?

 

[reaper]

$800 salvage, $1200 new are the prices I saw. Add $500 labor if you don't do the install.

 

[jakesz28]

So a dealer pullout at 0 miles for $750 is a good deal. I better call first thing Monday morning. My wife is going to love me.

 

[reaper]

ONLY if that's the low gear adventure case. I forgot the part numbers.