rascole
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- Bellflower, CA
I tried to seach here but no luck. Looking for the best way to remove the complete dash. The radio bezel is easy but I'm looking to remove the complete dash assembly.
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Dash removal help.
- Thread starter rascole
- Start date
awalsh
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- 349
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Always wondered that too so I could wrap the interior dash panels
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RamRod
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This should have all the info you need about interrior trim:
http://schwarttzy.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Hummer-H3-Interior-Trim-Paneling-1.pdf
http://schwarttzy.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Hummer-H3-Interior-Trim-Paneling-1.pdf
mjferencak
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- Elbert, CO
I've done it to replace the heater core. If you're doing the heater core you have to remove the front seats. Then it pretty straight forward. Remove every nut and bolt you see. Take pictures especially of the wire routine. Don't forget the three bolt on top of the dash when removing. The shell of the dash can be removed without removing the tube skeleton. Just take your time.
rascole
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- Bellflower, CA
Not doing the heater core. Looking to add wires up to/through the dash for future projects, dash cam, USB power to the dash tray, etc.
Bruces
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- Portland, TN
You don't have remove the dash to do that
rascole
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- 2,852
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- Bellflower, CA
Shows everything but the dash. Go figure.
rascole
Well-Known Member
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- Bellflower, CA
Please explain?
RamRod
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Oh really? I didn't read the whole thing.i figured it would be in there based on the category
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Power to the dash tray - remove the tray, run a fish tape through the hole with which you secured the tray. You can run power through there, that's how I did my CB. You'd just need a small hole in the dash tray. Others have done this as well. Heck you can even run power up the side of the dash and tuck the wire between the windshield and the dash, which is how my CB coax is routed.
Dash cam power - use a mirror tap or similar to draw power from the rear view mirror, or simply run a power line up the A pillar and under the headliner. Both are easy to do.
Bruces
Well-Known Member
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- 215
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- Portland, TN
With the center bezel and stereo removed there is plenty of room to run wires. You can also see where to drill from outside dash without hitting anything. Use a 90 degree drill and short bit. If you mount anything near driver pillar there is room unde weatherstrip on side of dash and won't have to poke holes in dash skin.
Custom Dash
I too have thought about this, I wanted to build a custom dock station for 2 cell phones and maybe have the option to install a CB Radio at a later time. I am using thin, wood planks for the unit and wrapping those in carbon fiber laminate. I am running a power wire up to the center of the dash and installed a 2 input 12 volt socket to that. There are kits you can get to power everything you need from a 12 volt outlet in regards to CB Radios and charging stations for phones. I took magnetic tape and put on the dash to secure the unit down and keep it from bouncing up or moving left and right, the unit itself I glued some earth magnets inside where you can't see them. I also attached a chain inside the unit and ran it out the back to secure the other end of the chain to the center bolt of the dashboard in an effort to make it somewhat safe in the event of an accident. The tape could be removed later if I were to decide to remove the unit, and its easy to clean the glue off with just rubbing lighter fluid on a rag onto the glue and using some elbow grease. So that keeps things stock and no holes anywhere. Running the wire and later, maybe some coax for a CB Radio, I use black 1/4" diameter wire loom, and attached about every 5 inches are cable clips that hold the loom in place. The clips have sticky backs on them and they attach easily to the dash for a professional look while hiding any wire mess you might create. You really do not notice the wire loom unless you are really looking for it. It is quite pleasing to the eye once you get used to it. On top of the unit I glued 2 TaoTronics Windshield/Dashboard Universal Cell Phone Cradles found at Amazon. I put in one of the 12 volt sockets a USB charger and ran 2 micro USB charging cables to it. The cables are hidden well and you only get to see about an inch of the cable as it plugs into the phones. The cables disappear through 2 holes dead center of the unit and then plug in to the USB Charger mentioned above. Under the cradles, is a slot I cut out that has dimensions big enough to flush mount a Uniden PC78LTD 40-Channel Radio, also found at Amazon. Right now it has a face plate in that slot held in place with 4 countersunk screws. The side facing the front of the vehicle, you know, where you can see threw the windshield? It has a white Marine Corps Logo...because white does not fade. When you look at it from inside the vehicle, it looks like an extension of the control panel and looks integrated with the 2 air vents. It is very professional looking and I get a lot of comments on it. People are anxious for me to hook up a CB, but that is a project for another day. Oh, by the way, I have only had my H3 for 2 weeks. It is the best vehicle I have ever owned....even over the 2 Dodge RAM 1500 4 x 4's I previously had.
I too have thought about this, I wanted to build a custom dock station for 2 cell phones and maybe have the option to install a CB Radio at a later time. I am using thin, wood planks for the unit and wrapping those in carbon fiber laminate. I am running a power wire up to the center of the dash and installed a 2 input 12 volt socket to that. There are kits you can get to power everything you need from a 12 volt outlet in regards to CB Radios and charging stations for phones. I took magnetic tape and put on the dash to secure the unit down and keep it from bouncing up or moving left and right, the unit itself I glued some earth magnets inside where you can't see them. I also attached a chain inside the unit and ran it out the back to secure the other end of the chain to the center bolt of the dashboard in an effort to make it somewhat safe in the event of an accident. The tape could be removed later if I were to decide to remove the unit, and its easy to clean the glue off with just rubbing lighter fluid on a rag onto the glue and using some elbow grease. So that keeps things stock and no holes anywhere. Running the wire and later, maybe some coax for a CB Radio, I use black 1/4" diameter wire loom, and attached about every 5 inches are cable clips that hold the loom in place. The clips have sticky backs on them and they attach easily to the dash for a professional look while hiding any wire mess you might create. You really do not notice the wire loom unless you are really looking for it. It is quite pleasing to the eye once you get used to it. On top of the unit I glued 2 TaoTronics Windshield/Dashboard Universal Cell Phone Cradles found at Amazon. I put in one of the 12 volt sockets a USB charger and ran 2 micro USB charging cables to it. The cables are hidden well and you only get to see about an inch of the cable as it plugs into the phones. The cables disappear through 2 holes dead center of the unit and then plug in to the USB Charger mentioned above. Under the cradles, is a slot I cut out that has dimensions big enough to flush mount a Uniden PC78LTD 40-Channel Radio, also found at Amazon. Right now it has a face plate in that slot held in place with 4 countersunk screws. The side facing the front of the vehicle, you know, where you can see threw the windshield? It has a white Marine Corps Logo...because white does not fade. When you look at it from inside the vehicle, it looks like an extension of the control panel and looks integrated with the 2 air vents. It is very professional looking and I get a lot of comments on it. People are anxious for me to hook up a CB, but that is a project for another day. Oh, by the way, I have only had my H3 for 2 weeks. It is the best vehicle I have ever owned....even over the 2 Dodge RAM 1500 4 x 4's I previously had.
Last edited:
f5moab
Mr. Beretta
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Avoid removing the complete dash for a couple reasons:
1. It is a royal pain in the arse; more so to install and you could end up with a few extra parts (usually nuts/bolts/washers, etc.).
2. You have to deal with airbags, so be careful around any connectors that are yellow.
3. You could end up with more rattles than you had before.
I ran a heck of a lot of wiring under the dash including power feeds, new grounds, antenna leads (GPS devices), rear camera leads, laptop power supplies, CB radio power/ground external speaker, etc., and it never crossed my mind to remove the complete dash even though I have the GM service manual with all the steps.
1. It is a royal pain in the arse; more so to install and you could end up with a few extra parts (usually nuts/bolts/washers, etc.).
2. You have to deal with airbags, so be careful around any connectors that are yellow.
3. You could end up with more rattles than you had before.
I ran a heck of a lot of wiring under the dash including power feeds, new grounds, antenna leads (GPS devices), rear camera leads, laptop power supplies, CB radio power/ground external speaker, etc., and it never crossed my mind to remove the complete dash even though I have the GM service manual with all the steps.
mjferencak
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 308
- Location
- Elbert, CO
I ran all my wires through my front left quarter panel, through the door harness grommet, under/across the dash and mounted my switches in the center console just above my gear shifter.