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Desert builds....?

silvrzuki77

Well-Known Member
Messages
556
Location
Vegas
Gunick what side of town are you on? Im up in the NW. I would skip the over priced jounce setup and run a airbump.
 

Gunick

Well-Known Member
Messages
72
Location
Las Vegas
Have Deaver make you a set of Rod Hall Springs (06Chris may still have his) or you can add a second main leaf like I did and leave it spring under. I would fun the Fox 2.0 remote res JK shocks. They fit with minor modifications to the bar pin mount.

If the 2.0 will fit id absolutely go with them...
 

bebe

Moderator
Messages
1,375
Location
Dayton, NV
Yes the Rod Halls zare piggybacks. I ran them a few years. If you are going to do serious desert trip ( long/fast) you'll want more fluid than the Hall shocks offer. They won't cook but you will get fade.
 

amrg

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,317
Location
Qatar
Do the fox have an internal bumpstop like the oems? Do they offwr equal travel to oems?
 

MTUH3

Well-Known Member
Messages
315
Location
Plymouth, MI
The Fox are OE Replacement.

I don't remember the fronts, I know there is a thread on the HX forum that had them. When I measured my OE rear shocks, compressed length was 15.25" and extended length was 24." The Fox shocks I have are 16.5 compressed and 26" extended, so about the same travel.

Having said that, there are a number of standard shocks lengths that Fox provides and can be ordered with any type of valving.

My conversations with Fox are that the 2.0 will take plenty of load from the H3 and the piggyback / remote res is a good idea to help with heat build up. Fox is also coming out with a system that will allow you to adjust the shock based on speed with the turn of a knob (on compression). By that I mean shock input speed, not vehicle speed. I do not have information on which type of shock it will be available.

But if you want to get real serious.... Go with the Fox 2.0 Bypass. This with the QAB system (quick adjust bypass) and the DSC (dual speed control) will give you almost infinite adjustment. This will make the Fox shock not only position sensitive, but also speed sensitive, which I am not sure any other company can match. But get ready to spend $1000 - $1500 per shock at that point.

Let's not forget though, we talk Fox a lot on these forums, but King and Icon make great products too.
 

MTUH3

Well-Known Member
Messages
315
Location
Plymouth, MI
BTW,

This thread wants me to start building a whole new truck.... now if I only had the money........

Bebe, just for reference how much did your build cost? Do you have any receipts?

OK Sorry, just being a ****-stirrer....

HE HE
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,493
Location
Meridian, ID
MUTH3 I know my shocks are limiting my soa with 10in of travel. Are the shocks still the limiting factor for your soa with an 11.5in travel shock?
 

MTUH3

Well-Known Member
Messages
315
Location
Plymouth, MI
Yes, compression is the limiting factor, so depending on what Fox comes back to be with, the way to get more might be to relocate the upper shock mount. To get the full droop, based on the sizing charts I looked at, you can't get a shock body small enough to allow the suspension full compression. I maxed out my floor jack, located under the shock leaf springs and the axle was a couple inched from the bump stop and the wheel and tire had plenty of clearance to the body / frame. To get a shock at 28" of full extension (so it is not the limit factor in droop) the shortest collapsed length is 17" I think a target full compression shock length was in the 14" or 15" ranch using the stock upper shock mounts. So the upper mount may need to go up a few inches to allow all the compression.

Unless you build a cantilever set up...........

In theory, you could do a body lift, which would get you an inch of clearance to the body, so that would help. The other option is to cut up into the floor with a hoop....

This is going to be a bit of trial and error to find the right combo. I left my H3 project book at home, so I don't have my shock goal numbers in front of me...

I guess there are those crazy two stage shocks too that might give the compression and extension needed
 
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Gunick

Well-Known Member
Messages
72
Location
Las Vegas
I think the 2.0 with piggyback should be fine for most of us... My desert runs shouldn't need much more. Plus with the i5 I'm not pushing speeds fast enough to really get crazy haha
 

bebe

Moderator
Messages
1,375
Location
Dayton, NV
I think the 2.0 with piggyback should be fine for most of us... My desert runs shouldn't need much more. Plus with the i5 I'm not pushing speeds fast enough to really get crazy haha

Then just get the Rod Hall Fox Shocks for the H3. Like I said I ran them for several years.

Hey Carl - you want the receipts going back to 2005? I got 8 years worth of receipts and research, in fact I'll give it all to you and the truck for 30K :p LOL!!
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,493
Location
Meridian, ID
Cantilever the shocks like offroad evo did on their z71 truck or look at the 6pak metal cloak shocks are viable options. I don't want to cut holes in the floor just yet :)
 

MTUH3

Well-Known Member
Messages
315
Location
Plymouth, MI
Then just get the Rod Hall Fox Shocks for the H3. Like I said I ran them for several years.

Hey Carl - you want the receipts going back to 2005? I got 8 years worth of receipts and research, in fact I'll give it all to you and the truck for 30K :p LOL!!

Best I can do is trade you trucks and throw in what few spare parts I have. LOL
 

backcountryislife

Well-Known Member
Messages
858
Location
Dumont, CO
The fox shocks for the h3 are for stock ride height though aren't they?

Ride height has nothing to do with what shocks go in.

In the back you can get more suspension droop from different shocks, cheaply & easily.... great mod imo, on the front, when you "lift" you're not changing anything like a traditional lift. Topout is still the same, and full compression is still the same, you just change where you sit within those parameters. Its seems a common misconception that this changes shock needs, but it does not in any way. The shock doesn't care if you start from 45% extension or 55% extension or whatever number it may be, it simply cares about top & bottom. You can get a tiny bit more droop, but that comes at the expense of impact of metal to metal instead of letting the shock do it's current job of controlling topout. Buying the "lift" shocks was the biggest mistake I did with mine IMO... I personally think they're a terrible idea for a number of reasons. If you want more droop, do Hunner's trick on the front shocks!
 
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MTUH3

Well-Known Member
Messages
315
Location
Plymouth, MI
FYI from Fox:

HOW TO MEASURE EXTENDED, COLLAPSED, & TRAVEL LENGTHS
NOTE: BE SURE TO TAKE INTO CONSIDERATION PIVOT ANGLES OF CV AXLES, DRIVESHAFT, SUSPENSION, AND STEERING COMPONENTS ON BOTH
EXTENDED AND COLLAPSED SUSPENSION CYCLES. A LIMIT STRAP AND BUMP STOPS SHOULD BE USED TO LIMIT THE SUSPENSION TRAVEL, NOT THE SHOCK.

STEP 1 (MEASUREMENTS)

EXTENDED (EXT) – SECURE THE FRAME WITH JACK STANDS OR LIFT. REMOVE SHOCKS AND SPRINGS FROM VEHICLE ALLOWING THE SUSPENSION
COMPONENTS TO DROP DOWN. ONCE THE DESIRED EXTENDED LENGTH OF THE SUSPENSION TRAVEL IS SET, MEASURE FROM THE CENTER OF
THE TOP AND BOTTOM SHOCK MOUNTING POINTS. THIS MEASUREMENT IS YOUR EXTENDED TRAVEL LENGTH.

COLLAPSED (COL) – SECURE THE FRAME WITH JACK STANDS OR LIFT. REMOVE SHOCKS AND SPRINGS FROM VEHICLE. USING A JACK TO COMPRESS
THE SUSPENSION TRAVEL TO FULL BOTTOM OUT INCLUDING THE BUMP STOP. MEASURE FROM THE CENTER OF THE TOP AND BOTTOM
SHOCK EYELET MOUNTING POINTS. THIS MEASUREMENT IS YOUR COLLAPSED TRAVEL LENGTH.

STEP 2 (TRAVEL)

DETERMINE YOUR REQUIRED SHOCK TRAVEL BY SUBTRACTING THE COLLAPSED LENGTH FROM THE EXTENDED LENGTH. THIS MEASUREMENT IS
YOUR TRAVEL LENGTH.

STEP 3 (SELECTING PRODUCT)
USE THE TRAVEL LENGTH TO BEGIN TO NARROW DOWN THE REQUIRED SHOCK FOR THE VEHICLE.
LIMIT STRAP LENGTH SHOULD BE CHANGED TO ACHIEVE THE REQUIRED EXTENDED LENGTH OF THE SELECTED SHOCK.
OPTIONAL SHAFT EYELETS CAN BE PURCHASED TO SLIGHTLY INCREASE OR DECREASE SHOCKS EXTENDED AND COLLAPSED LENGTHS.

I followed the same process, but did not remove the leaf springs. My goal was to maximize the travel to the springs used (cause I was not going to have new ones made) not the shock and then add a limit strap or other stop if needed.
 

2010H3TAlpha

Well-Known Member
Messages
563
Location
Issaquah, WA
Then just get the Rod Hall Fox Shocks for the H3. Like I said I ran them for several years.

Hey Carl - you want the receipts going back to 2005? I got 8 years worth of receipts and research, in fact I'll give it all to you and the truck for 30K :p LOL!!
Have you spoken to the team at Rod Hall lately? I don't see the Fox shocks on their website and no replies to emails about them. I'm going to give them a call soon because this is likely my next upgrade but I am afraid they no longer carry them :(
 

Gunick

Well-Known Member
Messages
72
Location
Las Vegas
Have you spoken to the team at Rod Hall lately? I don't see the Fox shocks on their website and no replies to emails about them. I'm going to give them a call soon because this is likely my next upgrade but I am afraid they no longer carry them :(
Same issue I had, no reply to my emails when asking about them
 

MTUH3

Well-Known Member
Messages
315
Location
Plymouth, MI
I contacted Fox to see if they have any information on the RHP Fox shocks. If not, Does anyone have RHP shocks available. with the part number and valve numbers on the shock body we may be able to order them from Fox, unless RHP tore apart and revalved the Fox shocks in house.

I have had some luck contacting Rod Hall Racing in recent months and dropped them a note too. I will keep you guys posted.
 

RamRod

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,914
Location
AB, Canada
... I just found out that the owner of the 4x4 shop that is bending up my tubing for my Sliders also races in Ultra 4.... and it sounds like their team won the national championship for their class last week in Arizona.... suddenly I have much more interest in a "dessert" build!!!
 
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