Dynamating Interior Doors????

[stvnkrchnr]

Hey Fellas,

So last weekend I replaced my blown out front factory speakers with some nice Pioneer midrange speakers and now I’m thinking about applying some Dynamat. The locations I’ll be using aren’t ideal but I figure its better than nothing. I’ll try and explain my plan and you guys let me know if you think it would be worth it to even try. I’d hate to do a time consuming project like this and not get a whole lot of sound absorption out of it.

I plan to remove the door panel, factory foam weather barrier and the new door speakers. Place a piece of Dynamat behind the door speaker on the inside of the outside door skin. There is another small location below the track for the power window that I’ll be able to apply more Dynamat on the inside of the outside door skin. Then install Dynamat in place of the factory foam weather barrier. I’ll pay close attention so I don’t cover up any holes, cables or bolts to ensure the door panels still goes back on and still be able to access the power windows motors in the future.

So my questions are,

1. Do you guys think removing the factory foam weather barrier and replacing it with Dynamat will have any negative affects?
2. I know when applying Dynamat its ideal to place it on the inside of the outer skins but in this case do you think sound absorption will be okay?

Anyway let me know what you think and btw this is an 06 base model.

Thanks,
Kirch

 

[derian06]

I applied roofliner to the inside of all of my doors every place I could fit it, you really can't go wrong. And the factory barrier made no difference for me.

 

[Ghostbuster]

I have dynamat in my doors. No noticeable difference. Just heavier doors. That factory foam already helps with sound. Leave it on.

 

[stvnkrchnr]

I applied roofliner to the inside of all of my doors every place I could fit it, you really can't go wrong. And the factory barrier made no difference for me.

So did you just ditch the factory barrier?

 

[stvnkrchnr]

I have dynamat in my doors. No noticeable difference. Just heavier doors. That factory foam already helps with sound. Leave it on.

Was there still enough room for both the Dynamat and factory barrier to still get the door panel back on?

 

[Ghostbuster]

Yes

 

[stvnkrchnr]

Ok thanks! I might just do the back door for now. If there isn't much sound getting blocked on the side doors than I won't waste the time. I really wonder if doing the roof would help with wind noise? But that's a lot of material, time and a bigger project than I won't to tackle this weekend.

 

[Renagade132]

Yes ceilings are a pain in the a#* to remove! Especially if it's cold, because the plastic panel clips will end up breaking on you, so try to warm them up before removal!

 

[2010H3TAlpha]

You only need to cover ~25% of your door panels with Dynamat. I do the inside of the outer panel, inside of inner panel and also the interior panel. Dynamat does not block noise, it only lowers the resonant frequency of your doors to remove annoying higher pitched vibrations. These are nice heavy American steel doors so not many viibrations to begin with. I would leave the factory foam weather barrier.

If you are really trying to lower road noise, MLV (mass loaded vinyl) is the ideal solution. Here is a great site that details how to sound deaden vehicles:

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com

 

[stvnkrchnr]

Thanks 2010H3T! All good info and I think I'll go this route instead of Dynamat!

 

[Renagade132]

Yes thanks for that link 2010H3TAlpha!

 

[stvnkrchnr]

Anyone know what a good glue or adhesive would be to reattach the factory moisture barrier?

I'm going to move forward on this project but wait until the spring time. I figure I'll have most the interior removed for at least a week and spread out throughout the garage. Causing the wife to park her truck outside, but I'll be nice and at least wait until it warms up a bit.

I got a quote today from a Line X rep to have my grill sprayed and we got to talking and I mentioned my sound deadening project. He said that Line Xing the metal behind the plastic fender wells would help dampen some road noise. He couldn't give me an exact quote without seeing the area with the fender well dropped but said it would probably be $50 to $80 per well.

Sounds good to me in theory but I honestly don't think there's that much metal to be sprayed in our front fender wells to make much of a difference. Something else to think over for a little while.