Eaton E-locker

[H3DONIST]

I found this while cruising eBay today.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-EATON-E-...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2c5f6fcec1

Is it safe to assume that this is the same as what comes with the adventure package from the factory? If so, would it be worthwhile to pick up one of these to activate it?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4X4-Switch-...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item336f902cac

Basically, turn it in to an adventure without the upgraded suspension.

 

[Scarsman]

I'm not sure about the H3, but on the H2 the switch is somehow linked to the VIN, so you can't take a switch from one rig and put it in another. Not sure what the reason is for that. :roll:

 

[Hunner]

I think that came up before and it was that the switches go thru the BCM or TCM to control things. They are not just on off to the item you want switched. I will have to look that up but I had the idea they will work if you are using them on an already programmed vehicle for those functions.
Might not be but will search for that.
I am also not sure but don't think there is much difference in the adventure suspension except maybe different shocks. I think the torsions and rear springs are the same. I think larger tires were included and a trailer hitch and a 4:1 transfer case.
I stand to be corrected if anyone finds something different.
I had problems in the past dealing in Canada but maybe that was an isolated case. They don't have laws we have and my Dad got screwed on a book he wrote when we found out they have no mail fraud laws. I have shipped to Canada and had to go thru customs forms and up the shipping so it may be the same coming this way. They say outside the US shipping free.
That is a good price for all that and may be worth checking out.
Does anybody have a different number on the locker spline count. It says 30 and I thought we had 28??

 

[Zach]

If I remember correctly, that is the same seller that Warmongur and some others bought their locker from. They used a different switch instead of the factory one.

 

[Hunner]

Yeah I remember some others using the separate switch. I think that is because they did not have a locker before that so that had to be wired that way. That would also not have the preventative system to keep it from operating only in low range and below the speed of 20 or so, cannot remember for sure. I think there was talk of two switches for safety.

 

[Kurt]

If it's like the H1 E-locker factory setup, you can bypass the factory control modules and just wire up a switch with +12v. I'd make sure you do some sort of safety setup where it only energizes when the T/C is in Low lock, wouldn't want to accidently toggle on the locker going 70mph down the freeway

 

[Hunner]

Old long story but when the locker on my I-5 quick working and I finally convinced them of that, rather than my suggestion from an informed source to check for a constant trigger signal they yanked it apart. I sent pictures of it to Eaton and they said the pins looked fine, did they check the voltage?? duh anyway here is what the inside looks like. Those pins are supposed to be in good shape, like these are with no edge damage from improper engagement.

and this is the electromagnet that the tech said was "burned up because you could see how it got hot and bubbled up" I sent a picture to Eaton and they replied "that is the potting material and it looks like that new"

six weeks later I finally got a new one installed as they ran out of excuses.

 

[f5moab]

I'm not sure about the H3, but on the H2 the switch is somehow linked to the VIN, so you can't take a switch from one rig and put it in another. Not sure what the reason is for that. :roll:

I would like to know more about this. The switch is not part of the control data buss, it is nothing more than an yes/no switch to the controller. There is also no mention in the programming to require it to be learned to the VIN of the vehicle or any required programming.

Same with the H3.

 

[Bigunit]

Yeah I remember some others using the separate switch. I think that is because they did not have a locker before that so that had to be wired that way. That would also not have the preventative system to keep it from operating only in low range and below the speed of 20 or so, cannot remember for sure. I think there was talk of two switches for safety.

If it's like the H1 E-locker factory setup, you can bypass the factory control modules and just wire up a switch with +12v. I'd make sure you do some sort of safety setup where it only energizes when the T/C is in Low lock, wouldn't want to accidently toggle on the locker going 70mph down the freeway

I would like to know more about this. The switch is not part of the control data buss, it is nothing more than an yes/no switch to the controller. There is also no mention in the programming to require it to be learned to the VIN of the vehicle or any required programming.

Same with the H3.

I bought the rear Eaton locker for my 09 H3T base, I-5, non-Adventure from this Ebay seller, together with races, bearings and Eaton wiring harness and switch. Completely bybassed the factory control modules and just wired up the Eaton switch with +12v. It has worked flawlessly & without any issues since January '11. Just installed a new CI front diff with the Eaton elocker using another Eaton harness and switch and again completely bypassed the factory control modules. Works just fine & can engage both lockers any time I want. This set-up works just fine in my 09 base, I-5, non-Adventure H3T. No issues with the BCM or TCM.

 

[Scarsman]

I'll try to find where I read that.

 

[06 H3]

I too bought from them and have no complaints. Great price and I even installed it myself to save some money and get the experience. I bypassed everything and have no issues...I would recommend going through them if you are in the locker market.

 

[f5moab]

I found this while cruising eBay today.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-EATON-E-...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2c5f6fcec1

Is it safe to assume that this is the same as what comes with the adventure package from the factory? If so, would it be worthwhile to pick up one of these to activate it?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4X4-Switch-...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item336f902cac

Basically, turn it in to an adventure without the upgraded suspension.[/QUOTE]

Not until you replace the t/case with the adventure series model.

 

[H3DONIST]

I found this while cruising eBay today.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-EATON-E-...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2c5f6fcec1

Is it safe to assume that this is the same as what comes with the adventure package from the factory? If so, would it be worthwhile to pick up one of these to activate it?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4X4-Switch-...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item336f902cac

Basically, turn it in to an adventure without the upgraded suspension.[/QUOTE]

Not until you replace the t/case with the adventure series model.

What is different on the adventure series t-case? Is it something I should look in to or is the one I have adequate?

 

[H3DONIST]

I would like to know more about this. The switch is not part of the control data buss, it is nothing more than an yes/no switch to the controller. There is also no mention in the programming to require it to be learned to the VIN of the vehicle or any required programming.

Same with the H3.

I would like verification on this as well. Why would I need to program my BCM with my VIN to get a button to work? I would like to get the adventure button bar to keep it looking stock, but if it's going to be a big hassle, then it's not worth it.

 

[H3DONIST]

I bought the rear Eaton locker for my 09 H3T base, I-5, non-Adventure from this Ebay seller, together with races, bearings and Eaton wiring harness and switch. Completely bybassed the factory control modules and just wired up the Eaton switch with +12v. It has worked flawlessly & without any issues since April of this year. Just installed a new CI front diff with the Eaton elocker using another Eaton harness and switch and again completely bypassed the factory control modules. Works just fine & can engage both lockers any time I want. This set-up works just fine in my 09 base, I-5, non-Adventure H3T. No issues with the BCM or TCM.

I suppose if I went with some kind of covered toggle switch like you see in the movies when they want to launch nukes.:giggle: Then I wouldn't have to worry about some preventative switch keeping it from switching above 20mph.

 

[H3DONIST]

I too bought from them and have no complaints. Great price and I even installed it myself to save some money and get the experience. I bypassed everything and have no issues...I would recommend going through them if you are in the locker market.

I'm pretty sure I'm in the locker market, but I have to wait till tax time, so it will be Februaryish before I buy something. I'm not much of a mechanic, but I have a buddy that likes working on trucks, so I'll probably pay him with some beer and have him install it for me. :horns:

 

[theBroken]

What is different on the adventure series t-case? Is it something I should look in to or is the one I have adequate?

4:1 low range vs 2.XX:1 low range. If I had a base H3 I would upgrade the Tcase first before I got a locker. But like I tell others, if your H3 does well off road for you, leave it as is. If you find yourself not being able to get through certain obstacles or you feel that you could use more performance then do it. If not your just going to waste money on something you might not need or even want. Try to get someone to let you drive a adventure and see how it's different first.

 

[06 H3]

4:1 low range vs 2.XX:1 low range. If I had a base H3 I would upgrade the Tcase first before I got a locker. But like I tell others, if your H3 does well off road for you, leave it as is. If you find yourself not being able to get through certain obstacles or you feel that you could use more performance then do it. If not your just going to waste money on something you might not need or even want. Try to get someone to let you drive a adventure and see how it's different first.

I know some tcases this is possible but is it at all possible to fit lower gears in the BW-4494 or BW-4493, like 5 to 1?

 

[H3DONIST]

4:1 low range vs 2.XX:1 low range. If I had a base H3 I would upgrade the Tcase first before I got a locker. But like I tell others, if your H3 does well off road for you, leave it as is. If you find yourself not being able to get through certain obstacles or you feel that you could use more performance then do it. If not your just going to waste money on something you might not need or even want. Try to get someone to let you drive a adventure and see how it's different first.

I've been offroad a few times in pretty much all terrain except rocks (I'm scared of rocks tbh:emb and so far my truck has done fine. There was some difficulty on a couple of trails that had steep hills that I felt a locker could help with. My co-worker has a built up toyota with front and rear lockers and he pretty much walks up stuff that I have to get a running start at.

 

[theBroken]

I've been offroad a few times in pretty much all terrain except rocks (I'm scared of rocks tbh:emb and so far my truck has done fine. There was some difficulty on a couple of trails that had steep hills that I felt a locker could help with. My co-worker has a built up toyota with front and rear lockers and he pretty much walks up stuff that I have to get a running start at.

I would attrbuite something like that on a H3 to a Tcase not lockers. On a steep hills the H3's weight really effects it's performance. 4:1 Tcase will help on steep hills better than I can explain. I would assume that your friends yota is much lighter than your H3 which would let it walk up things that you need a running start at. Adding a low range gear to a vehicle makes it act like it has more power.

 

[theBroken]

I know some tcases this is possible but is it at all possible to fit lower gears in the BW-4494 or BW-4493, like 5 to 1?

... Well I guess if you wanted to have some custom gears and collars made up sure. You can swap the gears out from one to another, a few other parts inside needed for it to work also but not to create a new ratio. You get one ratio or the other but not both.

 

[H3DONIST]

I would attrbuite something like that on a H3 to a Tcase not lockers. On a steep hills the H3's weight really effects it's performance. 4:1 Tcase will help on steep hills better than I can explain. I would assume that your friends yota is much lighter than your H3 which would let it walk up things that you need a running start at. Adding a low range gear to a vehicle makes it act like it has more power.

What kind of price range would I be looking at for a 4:1 tcase? I can only assume that swapping that out would void the remainder of my factory powertrain warranty?

 

[f5moab]

The adventure series (aka off-road package) comes with a rear locker on all model years (and front locker after 2009) a B/W 4494 T/case with a 4:1 vs. the standard B/W 4493 with a 2.64:1 gear ratio. Different shocks and 33" tires vs. 32" tires on the stock model.

The button array on the dash is naturally different. You can place an adventure series switch array in any H3. HOWEVER, that does not mean the locker button will work with a non-adventure series vehicle. This is due to the TCCM (t/case control module) is different and that is VIN specific. Switches are not VIN specific; VIN Specific meaning they are tied to a VIN.

You would be best served to just add a standard on/off switch, relay setup to activate the locker. Wiring of the stock switch to activate a locker without using the TCCM would be a pain in the ass. It could be done, but it would be so much easier to install an aftermarket switch.

Brodie is right, the t/case change would be a big difference and can be used more often than a locker. (A person who can speak out of experience on this is Alrock...)

He is also right that before you spend your hard earned money, think about how you will be using the vehicle. A stock, non-adventure series H3 can go quite a few places...just ask Alrock.

But if you go with a locker. Don't feed the mechanic beer until after he does the work.

 

[Bigunit]

I got my front cast-iron diff w/Eaton locker from theBroken. My next next purchase from Brodie (ridgedemon.com) will be the 4:1 transfer case - been saving my $$ - then my base 3T conversion to an adventure T will be complete - one slow step at a time. Thanks Brodie for all your help in transforming my base T.

 

[WarMongur]

I wanted to get the Adventure button bar as well, but after looking into it it wasnt worth the time/money/or effort. Plus the VIN number wont match up with the Adventure bar option so it might raise some eyebrows down the road. The switch that comes with the unit is a very high quality ARB lighted rocker switch.