Eaton E-locker

[06 H3]

I got my front cast-iron diff w/Eaton locker from theBroken. My next next purchase from Brodie (ridgedemon.com) will be the 4:1 transfer case - been saving my $$ - then my base 3T conversion to an adventure T will be complete - one slow step at a time. Thanks Brodie for all your help in transforming my base T.

Are you going with the gears only or the whole case with the gears?

 

[Bigunit]

Are you going with the gears only or the whole case with the gears?

I'll be going with the whole new case with the gears. Brodie can get the entire set-up for you too if you need/want him to. You just need to get past the point of wanting/thinking to keep your rig "stock" - once you get past that point, the sky is the limit! My mindset is to wheel my T until the wheels fall off - there's no going back!

 

[06 H3]

I'll be going with the whole new case with the gears. Brodie can get the entire set-up for you too if you need/want him to. You just need to get past the point of wanting/thinking to keep your rig "stock" - once you get past that point, the sky is the limit! My mindset is to wheel my T until the wheels fall off - there's no going back!

amen to that brotha! I am thinking the same thing...I want a whole new case too. I will keep the old case in the garage as a spare or a test to see if I could get 5:1or6:1 gears in there or to see if its even possible...

 

[cgalpha08]

Quick question, its clearly been stated that there is a difference in the t-case in the base from the adv, what about the T-case in the alpha? Is it the same as the base or the adv, i know the alpha comes with a cast iron front diff and upgraded torsion bars. Just curious about the t-case difference regarding the alphas

Sent via Tapatalk

 

[MUTAINT]

Alphas that came with the OffRoad Package will have the 4.03:1 T-case. Non OffRoad equipped will have the 2.64:1 T-case.

I have compiled the info below to assist newbees with understanding the different years and options. While it is not complete it is a great place to start with your H3/H3T knowledge:

Hope this helps!

Option Packages:
2006 H3
Base-Cloth/standard radio/Black accents / 265/75R16(32”)
Adventure-Cloth/Monsoon radio/Black accents/4:1 transfer case/Rear Locker/ 285/75R16(33”)
Lux-Leather/Chrome/Monsoon
Option Package Combinations:
Base w/Adventure, Lux w/Adventure

2007 H3
Base Engine 3.7L I5
Option Packages:
Base-Cloth/standard radio/Black accents/ 265/75R16(32”)
Adventure-Cloth/Monsoon radio/Black accents/4:1 transfer case/Rear Locker/ 285/75R16(33”)
Lux-Leather/Chrome/Monsoon
Option Package Combinations:
Base w/Adventure, Lux w/Adventure

2008 H3
Base Engine 3.7L I5 Optional Engine: 5.3L V8 (Alpha only)
Option Packages:
Base-Cloth/standard radio/Black accents/ 265/75R16(32”)
Adventure-Cloth/Monsoon radio/Black accents/4:1 transfer case/Rear Locker/ 285/75R16(33”)
Lux-Leather/Chrome/Monsoon
H3X-Leather/Chrome/18" wheels/Monsoon/Square Chrome Brushguard/ 265/65R18(32”)
Alpha-Leather/Chrome/Monsoon radio/Cast Iron Front Diff
OffRoad(only on Alpha) -4:1 transfer case/Rear Locker / 285/75R16(33”)
Option Package Combinations:
Base w/Adventure, Lux w/Adventure, Alpha/OffRoad

2009 H3 & H3T
Base Engine 3.7L I5 Optional Engine: 5.3L V8 (Alpha and Championship Edition only)
Option Packages:
Base-Cloth/standard radio/Black accents/ 265/75R16(32”)
Adventure- Cloth/Monsoon radio/Black accents/4:1 transfer case/Front & Rear Locker//Cast Iron Front Diff/ 285/75R16(32”)
Lux-Leather/Chrome/Monsoon
H3X-Leather/Chrome/18" wheels/Monsoon/Square Chrome Brushguard/ 265/65R18(32”)
Championship Edition- V8, Cloth/Monsoon/Red Shocks and Brake Calipers/Hood Sticker/ 285/75R16(33”)
Alpha-Leather (Cloth optional on H3T)/ Chrome (Black optional H3T)/Monsoon radio/Cast Iron Front Diff
OffRoad(only on Alpha)-4:1 transfer case/Front & Rear Locker/ Cast iron front diff/ 285/75R16(33”)
Option Package Combinations:
Base w/Adventure, Lux w/Adventure, Alpha/OffRoad, H3X/Alpha, Championship Edition, Alpha/Base(H3T only)

2010 H3 & H3T
Base Engine 3.7L I5 Optional Engine: 5.3L V8 Flex Fuel (Alpha only)
Option Packages:
Base- Cloth/standard radio/Black accents/ 265/75R16(32”)
Adventure- Cloth/Monsoon radio/Black accents/4:1 transfer case/Front & Rear Locker/ /Cast Iron Front Diff
Lux- Leather/Chrome/Monsoon
Alpha-Cloth (Leather optional)/ Black Accents (Chrome optional)/Monsoon radio
OffRoad(only on Alpha)-4:1 transfer case/Front & Rear Locker/ Cast iron front diff/ 285/75R16(33”)
Option Package Combinations:
Base w/Adventure, Lux w/Adventure, Alpha/OffRoad, Alpha/Base(H3T only)

 

[Steve #1]

For info on the switch, see this recent thread. http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?1198-4x4-selector-button-bar

I have a base model and would change the transfer case before I would add a locker. Not that eather has ever kept me from getting places that truck with them could go.

Not sure if I followed the question of the gears right, but as far as cost goes, you are better off getting a 4494 than upgrading a 4493.

Don't have your buddy install the locker for you. It's worth the $ to have it done by someone that has a lot of experiance with 'em.

 

[4speedfunk]

I think T-cases are the same gearing 2.6:1 for the base, and 4:1 for the AP...regardless of motor. One thing not mentioned on Mutaint's list is: transmissions. I know you can get a stick-shift AP with a 5-cylinder but, I'm 99% certain you cannot get an Alpha with a manual trans. I'm pretty sure that includes both base or AP models. So, if you want an Alpha AP...it must be an automatic. I'm making some assumptions on this one...correct me if I'm wrong.

Of course you could always make your own H3 Alpha, manual trans, Adv. Pak...(talk about breaking parts!)

 

[Scarsman]

I would like to know more about this. The switch is not part of the control data buss, it is nothing more than an yes/no switch to the controller. There is also no mention in the programming to require it to be learned to the VIN of the vehicle or any required programming.

Same with the H3.

Well, I have not been able to find where I read that yet. I distinctly remember it though. Someone was wanting to mount a factory H2 locker switch in the panel where the air ride and tow/haul buttons are to control a front locker. Someone else informed them that the factory locker switch was linked to the VIN, so they would be better off just getting a regular switch.

I remember it because it struck me as really strange that a switch would be linked to a VIN. Of course, maybe whoever posted that did not know what they were talking about.

 

[cgalpha08]

Idk if this has been discussed yet, but what about getting the new 4x4 dash panel with the locker buttons, wiring the vin appropriate buttons up and then just using the place where the rear or front locker button is as a normal switch? I guess this would be the bypass that people are talking about, cuz this would keep the dash looking nice without having extra switches all over the place.

 

[alrock]

Throwing my opinion in for t-case vs locker upgrade: for my out west wheeling I think a locker is a better first upgrade. Heck, we can point to my truck vs Bigunit's. I did tcase first and he did locker and he easily out wheels me.

I think it is more important to get traction than to control how it is put on the ground and that's the difference of locker vs tcase.

If we were to use those concrete drainage pipes at Truckhaven as an example a tcase would be better if you could always hit the pipes exactly square as the torque would be better managed for getting you over the pipe.

However it is rare that we hit every obstacle or hill perfectly square with equal traction to each tire. That's where the locker helps as it overcomes the issue of a tire losing grip. A tcase upgrade would do little to help here.

Given the choice I would've done a locker first but I didn't have a choice since I put a hole in my original tcase

 

[Hunner]

Idk if this has been discussed yet, but what about getting the new 4x4 dash panel with the locker buttons, wiring the vin appropriate buttons up and then just using the place where the rear or front locker button is as a normal switch? I guess this would be the bypass that people are talking about, cuz this would keep the dash looking nice without having extra switches all over the place.

That has been my thought but I was thinking of then having a separate lockout switch not necessarily obvious somewhere as a safety when not wheeling to shut off the in dash one. I still have not figured out if the final switch would need a relay to carry the current to the locker. Couldn't hurt, to be safe. Need to find out how many amps required for the locker.
I see the bid activity for the switch cluster has gained some momentum.

 

[Scarsman]

Throwing my opinion in for t-case vs locker upgrade: for my out west wheeling I think a locker is a better first upgrade. Heck, we can point to my truck vs Bigunit's. I did tcase first and he did locker and he easily out wheels me.

I think it is more important to get traction than to control how it is put on the ground and that's the difference of locker vs tcase.

If we were to use those concrete drainage pipes at Truckhaven as an example a tcase would be better if you could always hit the pipes exactly square as the torque would be better managed for getting you over the pipe.

However it is rare that we hit every obstacle or hill perfectly square with equal traction to each tire. That's where the locker helps as it overcomes the issue of a tire losing grip. A tcase upgrade would do little to help here.

Given the choice I would've done a locker first but I didn't have a choice since I put a hole in my original tcase

I completely agree. Having lower gearing will give you better control for finesse, and for going down hill, but it will not affect your traction at all. If you have an automatic trans, you can make the higher t-case work in almost anything. With a 5-speed, I could see some struggling on technical stuff with the higher gearing. But still, there is no affect on traction.

A locker can save you wear and tear on your truck, as you can crawl over things that you would have to use speed and momentum to get over without it. I would agree with the locker first choice.

 

[H3DONIST]

Alrock pretty much hit the nail on the head, as far as why I wanted to get a locker. I was in a position a few weeks ago where I only had 2 wheels on the ground to provide me traction, the driver front and the passenger rear. My traction control did me no good, because I had 2 wheels with no grip. I'm fairly certain that with a rear locker, I could have made it out of my predicament.

 

[06 H3]

I wish I had a video of an obstacle I took with a no locker and then again with the locker on. I added mine less then a year ago and love it! Install leaves little room for error. Just be careful, it can be done in the driveway but be careful

 

[MaxPF]

Since I have Eaton E-Lockers in both axles and I am familiar with this stuff, I will answer a few questions I have seen in different posts.

First off, the 8.6" 10b rear axles in the H3s are 30 spline - 10b axles have been 30 spline since the late 80's.

Second, all an E-Locker needs to engage is 12V to the electromagnet (draw is under 5 amps... IIRC it is around 2 amps or so). The aftermarket E-Locker kit uses a push-button and relay to engage the locker, but a simple switch without the relay can be used if it is rated for 10A inductive loads. Either way, a clamp diode should be added to protect the relay/switch contacts.

The reason H3's use electronic inputs to control locker engagement is because the average drivers are idiots (present company excluded of course ). Engaging the locker at 70MPH isn't going to make you crash head on into a bus full of nuns. It will wear out your tires, and it will affect handling a bit, but mostly it will damage the locker. The damage will be due to heat - the magnet clamps to a drag plate, which is what engages the ball ramp mechanism and causes the locking pins to engage. At low speed there is very little heat as the drag plate rotates against the magnet, but at higher speeds it is like driving with your parking brake on. So, don't do it. Make sure you have a lighted locker switch that gets your attention, and don't forget to turn it off after you have conquered an obstacle. No big deal.

Another thing to watch for is not trying to engage the locker when you have wheel spin, and to roll forward (or backward) 1/2 tire rotation before getting on the throttle. The reason is that when the magnet engages the drag plate, approx. 1/3 tire rotation is needed for the ball ramp mechanism to cam the pins into place. If you have wheel spin or you try to hammer it before the pins are locked, they will skip and ratchet off their engagement pockets, which will round them off and eventually make them non-functional. Luckily, it doesn't hurt the case and the rebuild kit is only $200 or so (plus labor), but this damage is completely avoidable if you just follow the 1/2 tire rotation procedure. Also, keep in mind that if you reverse direction, (going forward to reverse or reverse to forward), the pins will unlock and then relock, so in that case you want one full tire rotation before you stand on it. Note that this tire rotation doesn't have to mean vehicle movement on flat ground - you can be on an obstacle and have just one tire spin, whether the vehicle moves or not. The point is to avoid the tire spinning too fast for at least the first half or full rotation. Once the pins are engaged you can freely beat on it I have followed this procedure religiously with my E-Lockers, and even with years of hard wheeling I have almost no wear on my pins and side gears.

Finally, for those who have the E-Lockers from the factory, understand that the H3's electronic nannies DO NOT prevent the lockers from engaging during wheelspin or heavy throttle application. In other words, even if your lockers are factory installed you still need to heed the warnings and procedures I mentioned in the previous paragraph. I know this for a fact - I rebuilt a factory installed rear E-Locker in an H3 that had rounded off pins and would no longer lock.

OK, that ends my E-Locker diatribe. They work well and I like mine. Get one (or two) and be happy :thumbs:

 

[Hunner]

All that is good stuff. I could hear mine click on the 06 but on the 08 it is really quite.

 

[f5moab]

Physically, the switch array will fit between all model years. However, for 2006-2008 the system used a 16-pin connector. For 2009-2010, the system used a 18-pin connector. Do I need to say they won’t interchange? (I assumed in a previous post they might fit, I was incorrect in regard to the actual connector.)

Also, the inputs for all t/case modes (4 HI, 4 HI LOCK, 4 LO LOCK) and REAR locker are sent to the TCCM via ONE circuit on Pin 15. This is true for ALL model years. Signals from the switches vary depending on the resistor(s) in the button circuitry. Front locker signal to the TCCM are sent via Pin 14.

Therefore, trying to use a stock switch with a locker circuit would be next to impossible. NOT impossible, but it would be a royal pain in the arse. In addition, as noted in many threads, these switches tend to not function very well when they get dirty, and getting dirty is something that will happen when off-roading.

In addition, the switches ARE NOT VIN SPECIFIC, THEY DO NOT REQUIRE ANY TYPE OF PROGRAMMING. I PERSONALLY, ON MY 08 HAVE PURCHASED A SPARE SWITCH ARRAY AND SWAPPED IT OUT WITH NO PROGRAMMING REQUIRED. As I have said before, many people, including technicians and parts people at the dealer get this BS from the fact that GM parts system allows a person to order a part via the VIN number of the vehicle. So, if the parts guy/gal needs one of these switches, rather than look it up in the parts catalog, they enter the vehicle’s VIN into the system and the correct part number pops up on the screen (hopefully, it is the correct part number). THIS DOES NOT MAKE THE SWITCH VIN SPECIFIC.

 

[Portager]

Here is an example of an obstacle that is difficult to do without lockers. Vehicles have dug holes in a diagonal pattern so that only two tires have significant traction at any one time. I tried it with just the rear locker on but it was too steep to climb with just one locker so I backed down, engaged the front locker and crawled right up. When Craig did it without a front locker he had to get a running start and use his momentum to climb it. You could probably do it without any lockers but you would need to use more speed that I think is prudent.

If you did front and rear lockers without changing the transfer case, I'd worry about overloading the transmission and the lockers.

 

[Paladine71]

the switches ARE NOT VIN SPECIFIC, THEY DO NOT REQUIRE ANY TYPE OF PROGRAMMING

MY DEALER DISAGREES, and I have yet to have an issue with their work on my rig over the past two years. Do you have something from GM that states that in writing? I'd like to take them a copy of it if you do.

 

[f5moab]

Well, honestly I don't give a rat's ass what your dealer says. As I stated. replaced my switch last year with a switch I purchased on GM parts direct, and it was a simple removal of the old switch and replacement of the new switch. If you want to believe that I DID NOT PROGRAM THE DAMN SWITCH UPON REPLACEMENT, than that is ok with me. Personally, I am sick and tired of discussions on these switches and really getting tired of people saying the dealer said this or the dealer said that, since most dealers and the technicians that work there could not find their asses with a mirror and two hands.

So as far as I am concerend I am done with this subject, in fact, I am out of here. Don't need this BS at this time from anyone.

 

[Paladine71]

That was handled exactly as I expected. It appears that you are exactly what the others say that you are. Good riddance.

 

[alrock]

Question on this locker button vs. VIN thing: aren't we saying that switches themselves are not VIN specific, i.e. you can replace a locker switch panel with a new one w/o going to a dealer for programming, but the ability to ADD a factory locker switch is VIN specific as it is tied to the BCM (which is VIN specific) and/or TCCM? I have a hard time seeing a switch needing programming but I can see how the computer it ties into needing programming, which would be dictated by the VIN.

 

[Hunner]

If I may make a wild stab at this, see if anybody understands most of what I have found, out to mean this, as I think it does.
I think it keeps getting missed here that apparently the "switches" are just switches. However the trigger wire edit(12v) that goes to whatever module required to complete the command has to go to a module that has been programmed for that function and have the connection to the locker.
So by going by the VIN to look for what switches are listed it is stating what functions the module is capable of in that vehicle, if it is the original module or vehicle, is why the switches that only control those functions are listed under the vin as being the proper ones.
Until I compare both types of switches in person I will not know this for sure. An ohm meter will tell if pushing a switch, if it would be possible to trigger only 12v from one pin to another that could be used to trigger a relay directly to the locker without any of the features the control module would have. From looking at mine they are just dumb switches that trigger something in whatever module they go to. It's been awhile since I removed some of that but I have a dual locker panel coming.
I have been told on the rear locker when it apparently failed, by GM and Eaton that my dealer should check for a 5 volt sensor signal present to the locker before taking it out, they failed to do that and found no damage except what they destroyed taking it apart.
I wish this had not flared up here at the end over questioning someone's information that very likely as some of us know, probably went to the trouble to contact people that do know and tried to share it with us.

Edit;
Sorry I think Alrock stated that also. I had the page open and got called away and came back to finish and see you sort of said that as well.

 

[Steve #1]

Scarsman is probably on the right track with why why I (with a manual trans) may prefer lower gearing over a locker.​

Alrock pretty much hit the nail on the head, as far as why I wanted to get a locker. I was in a position a few weeks ago where I only had 2 wheels on the ground to provide me traction, the driver front and the passenger rear. My traction control did me no good, because I had 2 wheels with no grip. I'm fairly certain that with a rear locker, I could have made it out of my predicament.

You should only need one tire with grip for traction control to work.

MY DEALER DISAGREES, and I have yet to have an issue with their work on my rig over the past two years. Do you have something from GM that states that in writing? I'd like to take them a copy of it if you do.

Your dealer is wrong, or something is being misunderstood. My dealer does great work too. Sometimes they even tell me things that are wrong. F5 probably handled it the way he did in part because this is the second time in the past few weeks that he and I have both gone in to detail as as to why it is wrong.

If I may make a wild stab at this, see if anybody understands most of what I have found out to mean this as I think it does.
I think it keeps getting missed here that apparently the "switches" are just switches. However the trigger wire that goes to whatever module required to complete the command has to go to a module that has been programmed for that function and have the connection to the locker.
So by going by the VIN to look for what switches are listed it is stating what functions the module is capable of in that vehicle, if it is the original module or vehicle, is why the switches that only control those functions are listed under the vin as being the proper ones.
Until I compare both types of switches in person I will not know this for sure. An ohm meter will tell if pushing a switch, if it would be possible to trigger only 12v from one pin to another that could be used to trigger a relay directly to the locker without any of the features the control module would have. From looking at mine they are just dumb switches that trigger something in whatever module they go to. It's been awhile since I removed some of that but I have a dual locker panel coming.
I wish this had not flared up here at the end over questioning someone's information that very likely as some of us know, went to the trouble to contact people that do know and tried to share it with us.

Edit;
Sorry I think Alrock stated that also. I had the page open and got called away and came back to finish and see you sort of said that as well.

The VIN comes in to play only so the parts monkey doesn't order the wrong part. From what F5 said, the later model switches are a little different, but on the earlier ones, each switch has a resistor on it however, the newer switch having two more wires on it would indicate an additional 5V refrance from the TCCM and a switched signal to the TCCM. The TCCM looks at the resistance on the wire to determine what has been selected on the switch. It's not quite a dumb switch, but it definitely not smart.

 

[Flash]

If a person was to only install one locker initially - is there any advantage to having it be the front locker? Is it better to pull or push? http://www.ebay.com/itm/HUmmer-H3-f...=250767645809&ps=63&clkid=5002288854798214694 This link has a complete front diff with locker. 2 grand with shipping. Any problem leaving the rear open untill more funds came avalable? In other words - by installing the front first, one gets both the 4.1 cast iron case and the locker?

My only need for a locker has been over downed trees - twice. Each time required a strap. The H3's with lockers made it over without being strapped (the 1's didn't seem to even notice). In this situation, if one were to have only one locker, would there be any advantage to it being in the front?