Front end rebuild help.

[rascole]

Started the task of rebuilding my front end today. A lot more work than I anticipated. But for now I need some help on the best way to remove the old front diff seals. Also, tie rods, what is the best way to replace the inner? Looks like the boot needs to be removed?

 

[H3HummerLineX]

Do they just press in?


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[rascole]

The bushings? Yes, but the first one was not easy, bushings would deform bad before it would go in.

 

[digglesworth]

They make special seal pullers to pry out the seals. Or just use a screwdriver. Just don't gouge the surface of where the seal goes in.
The boot will have to come off the steering rack. The inner tie rod screws into the rack. It should also be staked to somewhat keep it from turning... You need a wrench to hold the rack and one to loosen the tie rod. Once the boot is off, find where it's staked and use a punch or something to "unstake" it so it'll turn. Put the new one on and stake it like the old one was.

 

[digglesworth]

On the front bushings, grease is your friend. And start them at almost a 45deg angle... Theyll straighten out as they go in.

 

[rascole]

How do you take the boot off with out damaging it, cut the metal strap?

 

[digglesworth]

The strap can be removed by unclipping it where it wraps around. Stick a flathead in there and twist. You probably won't be able to use the clamp again so just get a hose clamp roughly the same size.

 

[rascole]

Lower shock bolt size.

I bought a kit to remove the, LCA, lower control arm rear bushing. Should be interesting but it has been soaking with PB Blaster for 4 days now. But as I reassemble everything I need a new lower shock bolt, who knows what size it is so I can buy one on my way home tonight.

 

[rascole]

Have a question on the torsion bars. I have the LCA back on and now I need to install the torsion bars. I do not see a front/rear side and from my best guess, it doesn't matter, the twist will be the same direction. Now, I don't recall what position the LCA was in when I removed them. Do I install the bars with the arms just hanging down @ 6 o'clock? Do they have to clocked slightly up? Thanks.

 

[digglesworth]

Put the knuckle back in so the upper is connected to the lower through the knuckle. Let the suspension hang on the metal stop of the upper control arm. The t-bars should be stamped on one end R and L with an arrow pointing in the direction of the twist. Slop some grease on the ends of the bars before you insert them to avoid any creaking later on. Put it in the LCA first. Then put the key on the other end so it's roughly at the 3:00 and 9:00 postion. I think mine were around 10:00 and 2:00 and the bolt barely started (using new alpha bars). Cranked the bolts till there was about 1/2" of bolt sticking out the top. Once you get the weight back on the truck, you can adjust to the right height...

 

[rascole]

I bought Alpha bars but they are only stamped L R. I did just find the front suspension manual on Schwarttzy's website. The manual doesn't mention front or rear side of the bars, only L R. Good details on order of installation glad I found it.

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[rascole]

Got a question regarding the inner tie rod installation. Installed them the other night and today I started the torquing of the front end and I found the manual said to "stake the inner tie rod". Who has done this?

 

[digglesworth]

me!

 

[rascole]

me!

How did you do it? I already torqued it down and installed the boot. Is it critical to do?

 

[digglesworth]

theres a notch where the inner tie rod mates up to the shaft coming outta the rack. you just take a punch or screwdriver or something and punch the flange into that notch. its supposed to help keep the tie rod from spinning on the rack...

 

[rascole]

Tie rod grease zerk size.

Who knows what size the grease zerk fitting is on the tie rods? I want to change to 45 or 90 degree. The straight one that came with it is metric, had to use a 7mm to remove it. It is a Moog, I tried to call them but they could't answer me.
Never mind, got it.

 

[rascole]

rotor heat shields rubbing.

WTF, if it's one thing it's another. After a long drawn out front end rebuild, thanks to 14 hour days. Found the water pump to be going out. NOW, during the new brake pad and rotor break in I hear a metal on metal noise. After 1 trip around the block I put it back up on the stands. The problem is the new rotors are rubbing up against the heat shields. No amount of bending has fixed it, the metal wants to rebound back since there is already just a small gap to the hub. Has anyone removed the shields or run into the same problems?

 

[rascole]

Found the source of the metal grinding noise. The metal dust shield had a small dent from something I did when I was working on the front end. Hammer and a punch and it's all good.