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H3slate's 06 Manual Adventure
- Thread starter H3slate
- Start date
btw how much of the sunroof do the ammo cans block??? what are the chances of you snapping a pic from the inside... only thing I'm on the fence about... I love the way the cans look just don't want to see too much of them when I look up... the hi lift mount is genius...
H3slate
Brush raked
- Messages
- 983
- Location
- Tualatin, Oregon
They don't go over the sunroof too much. We kind of lined it up with the visible space of the sunroof. You do see the cans, especially the one on the right, but you still get the clear shot of the sky.
What's nice about the ammo cans is that they are removable. When I am driving around town I leave them in the garage. As much as I love the look of them, I don't need them everyday.
I will try to get a pic for you of the view out of the sunroof tomorrow.
H3slate
Brush raked
- Messages
- 983
- Location
- Tualatin, Oregon
Here are a couple of pics of the the sunroof with the ammo boxes. They do block a little of the sides, but I was willing to give up a little to have those boxes up there.
Normally I don't have them up there, so there are just a couple of bars in the way. It is a custom rack, so Scarsman could build it how you wanted it. :wink:
Normally I don't have them up there, so there are just a couple of bars in the way. It is a custom rack, so Scarsman could build it how you wanted it. :wink:
H3slate
Brush raked
- Messages
- 983
- Location
- Tualatin, Oregon
Spent all day wrenching on my truck. It is 500 miles short of 100,000 and it is showing it's age.
The plan: Replace both upper control arms, replace front diff with slightly used front diff, replace engine mounts, replace bushings in the steering rack.
Well, I got the front end torn apart, both upper arms off, front diff has been removed, and I got the new engine mounts installed. My passenger side mount was shredded, drivers side was not too bad.
This is what it is supposed to look like.
When I was removing the upper control arms I came across something that was pretty stupid. The bolts are both on the inside of the control arm, one of which you have to remove the brake line to remove the bolt. The simple fix to this would have been to have the bolts on the outside of the control arm and the nuts on the inside. :roll:
The plan: Replace both upper control arms, replace front diff with slightly used front diff, replace engine mounts, replace bushings in the steering rack.
Well, I got the front end torn apart, both upper arms off, front diff has been removed, and I got the new engine mounts installed. My passenger side mount was shredded, drivers side was not too bad.
This is what it is supposed to look like.
When I was removing the upper control arms I came across something that was pretty stupid. The bolts are both on the inside of the control arm, one of which you have to remove the brake line to remove the bolt. The simple fix to this would have been to have the bolts on the outside of the control arm and the nuts on the inside. :roll:
H3slate
Brush raked
- Messages
- 983
- Location
- Tualatin, Oregon
Tomorrow will be replacing the bushings on the steering rack that I got from Ultimate Power Steering. I already have the Hunner Franken mount on the passenger side so this should firm up the steering for good. Will install the newer front diff and new upper control arms. Once it's back together I have an appointment for an alignment at a shop close to my house. After 3 bad experiences with Firestone, I think I have found a reliable shop for alignments.
I have a new wheel hub assembly on order for the passenger side, it started getting pretty noisy on the road. I will install that next week. Also have a leak at the transmission/transfer case that I am not sure which is leaking. Will either work on that tomorrow or next week. While I have the transfer case out I am going to replace my plastic shift fork with a metal one. I will also replace fluids in the diff, transmission, and transfer case.
Hopefully I will get some updates on a project KMW has been working on for me soon. :corn: Also have a Hummer wall clock that I want to paint to match my wheels.
I have a new wheel hub assembly on order for the passenger side, it started getting pretty noisy on the road. I will install that next week. Also have a leak at the transmission/transfer case that I am not sure which is leaking. Will either work on that tomorrow or next week. While I have the transfer case out I am going to replace my plastic shift fork with a metal one. I will also replace fluids in the diff, transmission, and transfer case.
Hopefully I will get some updates on a project KMW has been working on for me soon. :corn: Also have a Hummer wall clock that I want to paint to match my wheels.
ABNTROOP
HIPPO
- Messages
- 1,985
- Location
- Vancouver, Wa
Holy **** dude?? Wish I'd known, mebbe coulda juggled the schedule to at least lend ya an extra pair of hands!
H3slate
Brush raked
- Messages
- 983
- Location
- Tualatin, Oregon
Got the beast all put back together. New diff installed with new seals and fluid, new upper control arms, new drivers lower control arm, new bushings in steering rack, replaced steering fluid, new engine mounts installed. Scheduled for an alignment in the morning.
Next week will be replacing the wheel hub assembly and figuring out the leak at transfer case.
Next week will be replacing the wheel hub assembly and figuring out the leak at transfer case.
4speedfunk
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 4,250
- Location
- Tardville
Slate....you were fast approaching the SAS zone! That's a lot of work to put stock stuff back on. It should drive like a new truck, however! I think everybody with 90K on an H3 needs to tear it apart and do a suspension fresh-up like this. It just part of owning one. If you wanna play...you gotta pay!
So what makes motor mounts wear-out like that? I'm make my own solid versions if mine ever get that blown-out.
So what makes motor mounts wear-out like that? I'm make my own solid versions if mine ever get that blown-out.
H3slate
Brush raked
- Messages
- 983
- Location
- Tualatin, Oregon
If it wasn't my daily driver I would have been tempted to SAS it. Especially if I had paid retail for all the parts. I got a great deal on a slightly used diff with upper and lower control arms.
I have no idea what made the motor mount get destroyed like that. :huh:
06 H3
a.k.a. "The Jackal"
- Messages
- 9,498
- Location
- Meridian, ID
At 108k miles I know what you mean...this stuff needs to be freshened up. No different then a jeep though. They have ball joints and bushings to replace too, just not a front diff 
bebe
Moderator
- Messages
- 1,375
- Location
- Dayton, NV
About the motor mounts -
I've been through a few myself. I think it's 1. the construction/materials and 2. the H3 rough idle. Colorados have the same issue.
I've been through a few myself. I think it's 1. the construction/materials and 2. the H3 rough idle. Colorados have the same issue.
H3slate
Brush raked
- Messages
- 983
- Location
- Tualatin, Oregon
So after my last adventure to Naches, I felt like my rear end was sagging a little. I finally got around to installing my Samco extended shackles to give my rear end a little boost.
These are pretty beefy, and gave my rear end about a 1" boost.
Before the install my truck was sitting level, the shackles brought some rake back, and will hopefully help keep my front end down on hill climbs.
These are pretty beefy, and gave my rear end about a 1" boost.
Before the install my truck was sitting level, the shackles brought some rake back, and will hopefully help keep my front end down on hill climbs.
H3slate
Brush raked
- Messages
- 983
- Location
- Tualatin, Oregon
Another problem I have been having is water coming in the rear cargo area through the fender flares. Since getting my fenders Line-xed they just haven't fit snugly.
The problem, pop in grommets that don't seat the flare firmly against the body.
The solution: bolts with rubber washers to tighten up the fit of the flares.
There are also rubber washers on the inside of the body. The washers help seal up the holes, but more importantly hold the flare firmly against the body, preventing water from even getting to the mounting holes.
Now if I can just keep my sunroof drains from clogging up I wouldn't have any more water problems inside.
The problem, pop in grommets that don't seat the flare firmly against the body.
The solution: bolts with rubber washers to tighten up the fit of the flares.
There are also rubber washers on the inside of the body. The washers help seal up the holes, but more importantly hold the flare firmly against the body, preventing water from even getting to the mounting holes.
Now if I can just keep my sunroof drains from clogging up I wouldn't have any more water problems inside.
06 H3
a.k.a. "The Jackal"
- Messages
- 9,498
- Location
- Meridian, ID
looks great! I like the fenderless shot.
06 H3
a.k.a. "The Jackal"
- Messages
- 9,498
- Location
- Meridian, ID
how does she ride with all the new front end components.
H3slate
Brush raked
- Messages
- 983
- Location
- Tualatin, Oregon
Not as good as I would have hoped. The front end still seemed a little off on this last trip. I don't know if it is the tires wearing down or the rack, but on rocky roads there is a lot of side to side movement of the steering. There is still a mystery noise that happens occasionally.
So far I like the ride with the new shackles. It puts my truck in a better attitude, and keeps my nose down.
06 H3
a.k.a. "The Jackal"
- Messages
- 9,498
- Location
- Meridian, ID
Are u running an aftermarket steering rack clamp?
H3slate
Brush raked
- Messages
- 983
- Location
- Tualatin, Oregon
On the passenger side I have Hunner's prototype franken bracket and clamp, on the driver's side I replaced the oem bushings with Energy Suspension bushings from Down Under.
H3slate
Brush raked
- Messages
- 983
- Location
- Tualatin, Oregon
A sneak peek at my next addition to my truck
During the last snow storm a piece of chain found it's way into my tire. They couldn't repair it, but I was covered by my replacement warranty. So I got a jump start on my next set of tires. Can't wait to get the rest. :giggle:
I have been busy with maintenance on my vehicle, I replaced the clutch, the shift fork, and all the seals for the transfer case and transmission. Next on my list is the bushings for the lower control arms. The driver's is creaking like an old metal bed.
During the last snow storm a piece of chain found it's way into my tire. They couldn't repair it, but I was covered by my replacement warranty. So I got a jump start on my next set of tires. Can't wait to get the rest. :giggle:
I have been busy with maintenance on my vehicle, I replaced the clutch, the shift fork, and all the seals for the transfer case and transmission. Next on my list is the bushings for the lower control arms. The driver's is creaking like an old metal bed.
spillKill
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 356
- Location
- north carolina
wow! thats the tire that im looking to get right now! haha
digglesworth
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 1,789
- Location
- illinois
Do you know the weight difference between those and the duratracs?
ABNTROOP
HIPPO
- Messages
- 1,985
- Location
- Vancouver, Wa
That's a mean lookin tire!
H3slate
Brush raked
- Messages
- 983
- Location
- Tualatin, Oregon
Looks like I need to update the build.
I found a good deal on some BFG KM2's got them mounted and installed before the MOAB trip.
Also made a trip to the KMW R&D dept and got all new skids.
Turns out that I should have replaced the gas tank skid too. First obstacle on the MOAB trip and it got bent and was rubbing on the driveline.
Up next is a new front propellor shaft to replace the CV boot for good. Mine went out in the middle of a 1,000 mile road trip home from MOAB. I was able to drive home in 4H Lock with the front shaft removed. Cruised at 60 the whole way and got the best mpg of the trip.
I found a good deal on some BFG KM2's got them mounted and installed before the MOAB trip.
Also made a trip to the KMW R&D dept and got all new skids.
Turns out that I should have replaced the gas tank skid too. First obstacle on the MOAB trip and it got bent and was rubbing on the driveline.
Up next is a new front propellor shaft to replace the CV boot for good. Mine went out in the middle of a 1,000 mile road trip home from MOAB. I was able to drive home in 4H Lock with the front shaft removed. Cruised at 60 the whole way and got the best mpg of the trip.