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Hand Throttle for H3?

mdocod

Well-Known Member
Messages
61
Location
Colorado Springs, Colorado
I've done my best with the gargler and haven't found anything. I'd really like to put some throttle control separate of the skinny pedal in the H3. I realize it's an electronic throttle, so traditional cable actuated options are out... Has such a mod already been performed by someone, or is there an off the shelf product available to accomplish this? I have an empty "hole" on the center console down low in front of the shifter that would make a great place for a throttle control knob. I'm wondering if it could be as simple as putting a pot of the proper range of value on the same circuit with the throttle pedal. Curious to know how sophisticated that pedal is. If nothing more than a potentiometer, then this could be really simple... Anyone done it?

I don't like "crashing" through obstacles with my foot bouncing on and off the gas. I'd like to be able to slightly open the throttle to a fixed position to maintain enough power through an obstacle without stalling.
 

jakesz28

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,056
Location
Cabool MO
I will tell you right now if you mix the wrong throttle peddle to the wrong ecm it can turn the ecm into a brick. That part of the ecm is real easy to fry. I would not mess with it.

Do you have a manual transmission? Why a band aid throttle control? Why not a tune with a slightly higher idle? I raised my idle about 5 years ago and never looked back. It really smooths out the I5.
 

mdocod

Well-Known Member
Messages
61
Location
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Thanks for the information there Jakesz!

I'm very tempted to take some electrical measurements of the pedal to see what it is doing when depressed.

Yea the i5 with the manual... The i5 does get very rough when lugged down around or below idle speed. My previous SUV, isuzu with the 3.2L V6, was a very smooth engine right down to ~250RPM. The i5 starts to send pulses of vibration under load at ~700RPM.

I'm not familiar with the re-tune process for these. I have a Cadillac owning friend who has spoke about it a bit, sending the PCM off to a distant magical land where an ex-GM engineer, likely using some stolen company proprietary equipment and information, re-flashes the PCM with new fuel maps, max speeds, idle, shift points (where applicable), etcetc..... The whole thing sounds a bit black market to me. Perhaps you can enlighten me ;)
 
Last edited:

JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,436
Location
Way up north, UT
I've thought this one through before and analyzed the schematics. The most surefire and easy way to do this is to use a choke cable run to the accelerator pedal instead of the throttle body like you usually would. The way the electronic throttle is setup has even the accelerator pedal as a somewhat complex device, it uses not just one potentiometer but two and the computer analyzes those values to get a precise reading from the pedal. I haven't looked at the pedal itself very closely to figure out the mechanics of this yet, but it shouldn't be very hard at all.

As for why not, well, to have a ECU reprogrammed at ~$200 a pop just to bump up the throttle is kind of expensive. If you're having them do other tweaks at the same time then it'd be worth it. Also, there are other reasons to want to increase the idle speed for longer periods of time, like running high amperage devices like winches and such, or when you want to crawl down something faster than a regular idle will let you.

The ECU reprogramming itself isn't a black or even illegal art, vast majority of the time you're dealing with someone who has a lot of knowledge (and maybe some insider info) that figured out how to dump the firmware and read it and modify it and reload it. While it is quite technical and challenging, it isn't anywhere close to impossible most of the time. Don't worry about having it done, the FBI isn't going to come break down your door and confiscate your modified ECU.
 

mdocod

Well-Known Member
Messages
61
Location
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jpaul,

I think you've nailed the most logical solution. Just have the cable actuate the pedal itself. Seems almost too simple! I like it...

I was talking about this with my "Cadillac" buddy (who also just happens to be real darn smart about cars in general) and we discussed some of the possibilities for how that pedal works. Yes, one of which would be a pair of pots. If this were true, it should be possible to "splice in" some simple electronics to "act" as the pedal when adjusted. Just need to take measurements and look at some diagrams... It should be possible to "replicate" the dual-pot behavior externally.

However, he mentioned another possibility I hadn't even considered... Could be a capacitance based sensor like a digital caliper, and that data could be sent over the CAN BUS to the PCM or ECM. If that's the case, we'd either have to reprogram the PCM OR it may be possible to command a different idle speed by calling out the right commands over the OBD II bus. Might be possible to set up a "hack" device to accomplish this, but I'm not too keen on reprogramming or "hacking," to accomplish this. I think a simple cable to the pedal makes a lot more practical sense.
 

jakesz28

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,056
Location
Cabool MO
The I5 can benefit from a tune, not that it will make it a power house. But reducing torque management, making it go into power enrichment sooner(like immediately after pushing the skinny peddle), raised idle, shorten shift times in the auto, ect.
 

jakesz28

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,056
Location
Cabool MO
GM did no justice to the tunes in many of the light duty trucks. I would have to look at a stock I5 tune again, but they prevent going into PE to help with emissions. But commanding a 14.7:1 afr under load is not good for power or the life of the engine.
 

JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,436
Location
Way up north, UT
Jpaul,

I think you've nailed the most logical solution. Just have the cable actuate the pedal itself. Seems almost too simple! I like it...

I was talking about this with my "Cadillac" buddy (who also just happens to be real darn smart about cars in general) and we discussed some of the possibilities for how that pedal works. Yes, one of which would be a pair of pots. If this were true, it should be possible to "splice in" some simple electronics to "act" as the pedal when adjusted. Just need to take measurements and look at some diagrams... It should be possible to "replicate" the dual-pot behavior externally.

However, he mentioned another possibility I hadn't even considered... Could be a capacitance based sensor like a digital caliper, and that data could be sent over the CAN BUS to the PCM or ECM. If that's the case, we'd either have to reprogram the PCM OR it may be possible to command a different idle speed by calling out the right commands over the OBD II bus. Might be possible to set up a "hack" device to accomplish this, but I'm not too keen on reprogramming or "hacking," to accomplish this. I think a simple cable to the pedal makes a lot more practical sense.

They are potentiometers, shows it on the schematic and it's wired directly into the ECU, not the bus. While the theory has merit, it's also going to be extremely difficult to execute due to a number of factors. The main one is that you'd have to have it inline with the accelerator pedal and would then have to make sure that it is able to go down to 0 ohms on both sides so that it doesn't inadvertently always make the ECU think the pedal is being pushed down more than it is. The other main factor is that the values need to match exactly or the ECU might freak out. The simplest way to accomplish this is to just get another pedal and use the internals, but after the cost and effort of sourcing the part, modifying it, splicing it in, and hoping it works, you could have just bought a choke cable and installed it to control the pedal manually and be done. It has the lowest risk and impact which when you're talking about the part of the vehicle that makes it go faster is probably a better and safer option then messing with the electronics involved. To make it even safer I'd rig it so that it can only depress the pedal just enough to bring it up to maybe 1500RPM max.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,506
Location
Meridian, ID
GM did no justice to the tunes in many of the light duty trucks. I would have to look at a stock I5 tune again, but they prevent going into PE to help with emissions. But commanding a 14.7:1 afr under load is not good for power or the life of the engine.

Jake do you do your own tunes?

I’ll send you a PM on a question I have for frying PCMs, well mine is related to the TCM. I have an idea that will be sweet if it will work but it involves messing with the TCM.
 

mdocod

Well-Known Member
Messages
61
Location
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Don't know about the I5's, but the BANKS AUTOMIND tunes for the 5.3 raises the idle rpm to 700. How high do you want to go?

I'd prefer the idle for normal driving to remain unchanged. When negotiating offload obstacles, being able to manually select engine speeds in the ~1000-1500RPM would be preferred. I don't think I want to program a different base idle speed.

-------------------

The I5 can benefit from a tune, not that it will make it a power house. But reducing torque management, making it go into power enrichment sooner(like immediately after pushing the skinny peddle), raised idle, shorten shift times in the auto, ect.....GM did no justice to the tunes in many of the light duty trucks. I would have to look at a stock I5 tune again, but they prevent going into PE to help with emissions. But commanding a 14.7:1 afr under load is not good for power or the life of the engine.

I may have to look into this further, as the torque on the bottom end of this engine does "feel" weaker than I would expect given the displacement/sophistication etc. Feels like it is holding its breath until ~4500RPM+. So who is in the reprogramming business for these? Any recommended direction for that?

-------------------

They are potentiometers, shows it on the schematic and it's wired directly into the ECU, not the bus.

Excellent! Thank you!

While the theory has merit, it's also going to be extremely difficult to execute due to a number of factors. The main one is that you'd have to have it inline with the accelerator pedal and would then have to make sure that it is able to go down to 0 ohms on both sides so that it doesn't inadvertently always make the ECU think the pedal is being pushed down more than it is.

It is highly unlikely that the accelerator position sense pots would have to accurately approach 0 ohms to command an idle. It is also highly unlikely that the sense input on the PCM is anything less than many thousands of ohms. Very low impedance requirements in any part of this circuit besides the reference output impedance would be a poor design susceptible to variation from oxidation, contact resistance, termination, etc. It also would require a very high current reference source to drive, which is not practical either.

I just pulled up the diagram that Schwarttzy has hosted, and it appears to be a pair of pots used as voltage dividers from a 5V reference. The PCM is likely comparing the sense input from each pot, assuring both pots are operating within a defined tolerance of each-other. The PCM might also be looking for combined voltage from each divider to add up to something very close to the reference voltage (will never completely match the reference voltage)... That could complicate things...

In order for such a circuit to work well, I would expect the output impedance of the 5V reference to be relatively low (<1ohm), the impedance of the accel-sense inputs on the PCM to be relatively high (approximately 10-100X the POT resistance), and the pots in-between to operate somewhere in the neighborhood of tens to thousands of ohms.

The other main factor is that the values need to match exactly or the ECU might freak out.

They don't need to be exact, they need to be within the tolerances allowed. We don't know the tolerances, but I suspect that the biggest issue that could put the PCM into a lockout/safety mode regarding the throttle, would be if the tolerance between the 2 pots varied too much. As long as they are within allowed tolerance, any remaining tolerances would not need to be very tight for this to work well. There's a possibility, that the PCM also expects the combined voltage from each divider to "add up" to a particular level, which could be a problem for such a modification, but is less likely.


The simplest way to accomplish this is to just get another pedal and use the internals, but after the cost and effort of sourcing the part, modifying it, splicing it in, and hoping it works,

If we simply splice in another pedal's electrical guts, low side in series, high side in parallel, then we will have doubled the resistance of one side of the divider, and halved it on the other for its maximum and minimum range. If the input impedance of the PCM sense for this, is say, 100X greater than the highest impedance of the POT's, then splicing in an equivalent set of POTs would have less than 1% effect on the sense input voltages and low reference voltages. However, if the input impedance of the PCM, is only say, 10X greater than the highest impedance of the POTs, then we would be changing the sense and low-reference sense voltages by as much as 10%, which would likely be out of range for where idle and max throttle belong.

My thoughts, are that I would NOT approach this by using another of the same "gas pedal." I think a smarter approach, would be to use a set of POT's sharing a common shaft, that are selected to only effect a change in resistance of ~10-20% of the total range that the pedal is capable. This way, we're less likely to throw things out of range on the sense inputs for where idle and WOT are supposed to be by accident, and furthermore, for safety reasons, a hand throttle probably should not be capable of increasing engine speed with no load more than maybe 1000-2000RPM.


you could have just bought a choke cable and installed it to control the pedal manually and be done. It has the lowest risk and impact which when you're talking about the part of the vehicle that makes it go faster is probably a better and safer option then messing with the electronics involved.

After taking a close look at the pedal itself, I don't think the installation of a cable actuated mechanism to move the pedal will be as simple as it seems on the surface. This would have to be done in such a manner that does not interfere with foot-well clearance around the pedal and does not prevent the pedal from its full range of motion, while also incorporating...

To make it even safer I'd rig it so that it can only depress the pedal just enough to bring it up to maybe 1500RPM max.

...bingo.... a method that only can actuate it partially....

I see a fair bit of fabrication/experimentation and likely numerous "beta stages" to come to a long term reliable solution for this. I actually think, looking at it closer, that an electrical solution might be easier.
 

jakesz28

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,056
Location
Cabool MO
Jake do you do your own tunes?

I’ll send you a PM on a question I have for frying PCMs, well mine is related to the TCM. I have an idea that will be sweet if it will work but it involves messing with the TCM.

Yes I do my own tuning. First car I messed with was my Camaro 15 plus years ago. I own HP tuners pro. Have not done a lot with it, recently.
 

JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,436
Location
Way up north, UT
It is highly unlikely that the accelerator position sense pots would have to accurately approach 0 ohms to command an idle. It is also highly unlikely that the sense input on the PCM is anything less than many thousands of ohms. Very low impedance requirements in any part of this circuit besides the reference output impedance would be a poor design susceptible to variation from oxidation, contact resistance, termination, etc. It also would require a very high current reference source to drive, which is not practical either.

I'm referring to the pots used to bump the idle up, they'd need to be able to go to zero otherwise the ECU will think the original pedal is being depressed more than it really is.
 

JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,436
Location
Way up north, UT
After taking a close look at the pedal itself, I don't think the installation of a cable actuated mechanism to move the pedal will be as simple as it seems on the surface. This would have to be done in such a manner that does not interfere with foot-well clearance around the pedal and does not prevent the pedal from its full range of motion, while also incorporating...

Not necessarily, an arm attached maybe an inch below the pivot point that the cable pushes on to depress the pedal and the associated bracket to hold the cable shouldn't be terribly challenging to fabricate. Offhand I'm not sure of the spring rate of the accelerator pedal return spring, but I don't think it's very much. Use a cable end that is slotted so when it pushes down it depresses the pedal, but if you need to accelerate further (or just normally really) then it won't stop the pedal from moving.

Something like this (pardon the crappy Paint job):

nz38uNW.jpg
 

mdocod

Well-Known Member
Messages
61
Location
Colorado Springs, Colorado
I'm referring to the pots used to bump the idle up, they'd need to be able to go to zero otherwise the ECU will think the original pedal is being depressed more than it really is.

Not necessarily.

As described in my post above, if the PCM's accelerator sense input impedance is ~100X higher than the high range of the POTs resistance, then the effect of halving or double the resistance of the divider would only effect the voltage seen by the PCM by up to ~1%. I don't think we need to approach 0 ohms on the additional POT's added, but measurements will need to be taken to know for sure how much tolerance there is in this system for variations in the throttle pots....

Not necessarily, an arm attached maybe an inch below the pivot point that the cable pushes on to depress the pedal and the associated bracket to hold the cable shouldn't be terribly challenging to fabricate. Offhand I'm not sure of the spring rate of the accelerator pedal return spring, but I don't think it's very much. Use a cable end that is slotted so when it pushes down it depresses the pedal, but if you need to accelerate further (or just normally really) then it won't stop the pedal from moving.

Something like this (pardon the crappy Paint job):

nz38uNW.jpg

It's a fantastic idea and I like the diagram!

I estimate the actuation force at 1" from the pivot to be 30-40lbs. I think a reliable device that can convert that linear motion of a cable moving a few inches, into moving that point on the pedal a few millimeters, is not as trivial an engineering project as it may seem. Yes, it can be done, but I'm starting to think the electrical solution is simpler, and likely cheaper. Just have to take some electrical measurements.
 

jakesz28

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,056
Location
Cabool MO
I think you risk damaging the ecm if you try to add in pots. As I said before many people have bricked ECMs doing late module engine swaps if you dont match the correct paddle assembly.


It would be easier to get the correct tuning software and make a tune that alters idle speed by use of the AC or temperature. If you did it by temp you could add in resistance on a switch to the IAT sensor.

If you search on HPtuners forum you will find a bunch of people have ruined ecm's messing with peddle assemblies.
 

mdocod

Well-Known Member
Messages
61
Location
Colorado Springs, Colorado
If you search on HPtuners forum you will find a bunch of people have ruined ecm's messing with peddle assemblies.

Just tried 3 different search term strategies there to dig up the ruined ECM's. Browsed about 20 pages of results. Nothing about throttle pedal / pot / ecm damage to be found that method. I then tried it in the googler, again, doesn't seem to be a mainstream issue, no results having anything to do with ECM damage.

I'm not saying I don't believe people have friend their PCM's ECM's by messing with this, but I have given it a reasonable effort to dig up the details/circumstances leading to these supposed failures and found nothing.

Assuming these examples exist, I suspect any such ECM/PCM failure was because they hooked something up VERY wrong, like failed to use the 5V reference voltage as provided by the ECM/PCM with its built in pull down resistor, and rather, may have just hooked it straight to 12V power.

Proper circuit analysis and testing is required PRIOR to modifications to prevent damage.

If what you're saying were true, then when a pot in the pedal goes belly up, there would be risk of PCM/ECM damage.
 
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