Leak, normal or all bad?

[brash47]

After trying to resolve front end vibration issues and my tire guy showing me back and forth play in my front wheels, 2 separate mechanics told me..worn tie rods, worn upper and lower ball joints. The truck has 255k with original parts, so I wasn't surprised. I have ordered a ton of replacement parts already...steering rack (Delco with 16mm tie rods), Moog upper control arms, Moog lower ball joints, Moog sway bar links, and since they are in there...new bilstein shocks to go around.*

I was under my truck today and saw alot of grease like material around drive train/axle? Sorry, I dont have the mechanical expertise to say what part, so I attached a picture.*

Is the greasy area normal due to just driving and **** getting in there or is this all bad? Looking for some advice here. Thanks in advance

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[06BlueH3]

Looks like your cv axle shaft seal is leaking. If it is just a little seepage and not a full on leak you may be okay for awhile unless you do off roading or drive through deep water. Either way you will want to get it fixed. May as well change cv axle shaft while you are at it since you have high miles on your truck. You have to remove shaft to replace seal anyways.


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[brash47]

I just looked it up....like 60 bucks....should I go Delco or is an aftermarket ok?

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[Bruces]

I found AAM seals and bearing set on eBay. I will look for number. If you have high mileage you can replace bot at same time.

here you go. Two bearings and two seals.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-7-6-IFS-...2-CANYON-H3-/152719776209?hash=item238eced9d1

 

[brash47]

Wow, you guys are fast. Thanks, I checked that out and I may go that route, just trying to decide if I should just replace the whole unit. If I do, it's looking like 40-50 per side. Should I do both or just the one that is f'ed up?

 

[USMC_TOP]

I’m not sure about other people bu I can’t keep my front left dry for more than a year. I have replaced mine 3 times and after a year it looks like yours. I was thinking about going the easy way and power wash it so I don’t see anything for a while.........lol


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[Bruces]

I had cheap half shafts in and they kept leaking. Replaced them with good shafts and new seals no issues. Thinking the cheap shafts were not to spec

 

[deserth3]

Also when you install the half shaft you have to be very careful splines don't cut the seal.
Kent Moore Axle*Seal*Protectors J-44394

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[Kick'n Dust]

I would recommend replacing the bearing behind the seal also if you decide to fix it. The bearing is inexpensive and you are already there. I've replace both the left and right differential bearings, seal and axles with oem parts and the seals still leak a little just like yours is. Make sure your vent tube is clear and not plugged. GM refers to it as seepage and claims it to be normal. On the bright side those parts won't rust.

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[Kick'n Dust]

The picture of the inner tie rod boot has me thinking you have a leak at your rack. Take a pick and poke a small hole in your boot close to the rack at the bottom and if fluid drips out you have a leaking rack and pinion

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[brash47]

Kick'n, thanks for the info on the rack. It just arrived yesterday, I was already replacing that one....but good eye bro. Bruce, I ordered the seal and bearing set so I'm going that route first. The other side is bone dry outside, so I'll wait till it gets bad them do that one since I'll have the parts.

With a leaking rack and pinion..I should be getting a small steering fluid leak right?

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[Mr_Rich]

That doesn't look like anything to be overly concerned about. When I see seepage like that I scrub it up with engine cleaner and follow with a scrub with liquid laundry detergent. Monitor how long it takes before you detect leakage. When you start leaving palm-sized oil spots in your parking spot it's time to be concerned.

 

[rascole]

That is really clean for 255k miles. Get a couple of cans of foamy engine degreaser and clean it up real good. Drive it for a week then you should easily see the leak. Not a major job to do any of them in your driveway, steering rack will be the most expensive but manageable. H3 front end is surprisingly easier to work on then most.