• Welcome to H4O! For a reduced ad experience, please login or register with the forum.

Lift Kit for2008 H2

Big2dabank

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,220
Location
Central Florida
You don't need a lift kit for the H2, I currently have 37s, but just ordered a set of 38s. I am running a 2" coil spacer in the rear and torsion keys up front. I expect there will be some slight rubbing at full lock, but that doesn't bother me. I was going to stuff 40s on it with a 2" body lift, but I talked myself out of it.
 

H2sRock

Member
Messages
19
Location
Utah
37

Do you know what kind of offset and backspace you have on your 37s?

These are the tires and wheels I'm looking at getting.


Tires: 37x12.50R20LT, Trail Grappler Nitto | Part Number: NIT205-800



Rims: 20X10 8x6.5 Part# D54620008247 offset -18 backspace 4.750



I just think 35" tires on an H2 look TINY!! I wouldn't mind putting in a 2" leveling kit or something like that and upgrading the Tie Rods if it can be done for around $1K. I just don't want to get on the slippery slope of dropping $10K on the front end of an H2 that's barley broken in.


Who makes the best leveling kit?


What Tie Rods are better Kryptonite or Cognito?
 

Fish

Well-Known Member
Messages
871
Location
San Diego, CA
Thanks Fish,

That's great you didn't have to do any trimming.

Did you notice a big change in the ride quality when you adjusted the t-bars?

Did you upgrade any of your suspension?

Did the stock tires also rub for you?

i bought the truck with 28k miles on it and the t bars were already adjusted. It rides nicely. I have air bags in the back and besides those I haven't replaced anything, I'm around 50k miles now.

I cant ant remember if the stock tires rubbed but even with 37's the rubbing is minimal, it only rubs a little with the wheels fully turned.
 

Zach

Mall Crawler
Messages
4,812
Location
So Cal
Little late to the party, are you planning on wheeling it at all? If so, I wouldn't go with 20's. I'm running 37's on stock wheels with no lift, been running this for a few years. Full lock, I get rub, stock, got it as well. Suspension wise, run Cognito upper control arms, gave the front a little lift. Also running GM green keys for the torsion bars with no crank to them. Set up has done well. I did regear to 4.88's, off road in low, it creeps up hills fine, downhill, have to feather the skinny peddle at times.
 

H2sRock

Member
Messages
19
Location
Utah
I'm not going to be to much wheeling per say. I will be sticking to the easy trails and to the pavement.
 

H2sRock

Member
Messages
19
Location
Utah
What is the difference between the Bulletproof and the Fabtech? I know on the Bulletproof you won't have to cut an ear off the rear diff... But to me that is not a big deal... I seen a pic of the parts in the kit and it looks to me like the Fabtech has a lot more parts. What one is better from an engineering point of view? Cutting off the ear on the diff is not that big of a deal for me IF it would lead to less wear and tear on the front end. The first one is Bulletproof followed by Fabtech.

attachment.php
attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • H2-6kit-x.jpg
    H2-6kit-x.jpg
    68.7 KB · Views: 941
  • FabTech2.jpg
    FabTech2.jpg
    22.4 KB · Views: 903

Mb30sdl

Hamster that pokes Bears
Messages
1,588
Location
Raleigh area NC
Basically bulletproof moves whole front assembly down 6", as you can see. FABTECH cratels front dif. in crossmember but you have to cut off upper bolt mounting.

in my opinion front diff. is more protected with FABTECH. And 20" rims work just fine with 38"s.
 
Last edited:
Top