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might be doing an engine swap sooner than i thought! :(

H32NV

Well-Known Member
Messages
322
Location
Golden, CO
Mine too guys. I am consistently consuming three quarts in-between oil changes, and there appears to be a lot of oil around the PCV breather tube underneath the air intake. Checked compression, its perfect. Zero smoke from the tailpipe, even when it starts, and no visibile leaks underneath or on the ground. WHERE IS IT GOING??? I first noticed this at about 105k miles when my red oil light came on, and i thought that was weird because i do my oil changes myself, and I'm meticulous about everything. I added TWO quarts to bring it to full. kept checking it, and it has somehow lost one quart of oil per 1000 miles ever since.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,503
Location
Meridian, ID
looks nice! You gonna pull the trigger? I take it the altitude and hilly freeways in flagstaff are making the underpowered I5 even more noticeable?
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
It's an early '06, serious overheating issues, lack of lubrication I guess. Lots of blue metal in it now !


Mike


hmmmmm.... mine didn't overheat, it lost a 2 links - one got caught in the magnet, the other.... well... so I need a chain, and two gears - the gears, IIRC, were the spendy bits.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,503
Location
Meridian, ID
so when alex was dumping smoke on steep climbs does that mean his cat was bad and allowing it to burn off past the cat?
 

H32NV

Well-Known Member
Messages
322
Location
Golden, CO
i would think that if I am burning the oil that is going missing, then i might see a hint of smoke at startup which is when the cats are cold and not active. once the cats heat up then the platinum/cerium in them will catalyse any unburned hydrocarbons that pass through, but i dont see any. zero. nothing. cold or hot.
 

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,673
Location
Scottsdale
Just because the head was my issue doesn't mean it necessarily would be for anyone else. Besides - you're talking engine swap and you're worried about a much smaller job?
 

f5moab

Mr. Beretta
Messages
1,999
Location
In hiding.....
If the honeycomb inside the cat gets coated with oil it will fail and the CEL will come on denoting this. It does not take much oil to destroy a cat. The basic workig are inside the cat is the platinum/palldium/Rhodium substrate that is the actual catalyst. The substrate can burn off some oil, but large amounts can not be burned off, and the substrate will stop doing their magic. So I doubt if a lot of raw oil is passing through the combustion chamber in into the cat. I'm guessing the engine is burning it rather effectively and all engines do burn some oil.
In those mountain areas, on highway driving, etc., you will probably be pushing more oil through the ventilation system and burning it. Remember, every time you go into wide open throttle your engine becomes an air pump and pushes oil through the system, under load, half-throttle going up hill for example, you will also push some through the system.
I use about a half quart of oil for each oil change at around 5-6K. Checked it this weekend, with a little over 3K and it might have been down by a quarter of a quart; really hard to tell. But my H3 does no highway driving, only a daily driver and on weekends taken out on some easy trails (by myself) or once in a while on some decent trails (with Jeep / Nissan people). But last year, in November, when I towed my trailer down I70 to Zion NP and back, I used about a quart and a half of oil, but there was a lot of up and down some decent long grades at highway speeds (i.e., wide open throttle).

Funk could also be correct, in some cases it might be worn guides, seals, etc. As these engines age, interior parts start to wear. It all depends on the engine and how it is driven.

 
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CaseyS

Well-Known Member
Messages
755
Location
Louisiana
Kyle, how many miles on your engine? This is the exact failure mode mine experienced. I ran mobil 1 and would normally go 10-15k sometimes more on an oil change. The engine lasted to 259k on the odometer uncorrected for my 35s so its actually higher. When the oil level is low, a hard stop will push oil away from the pickup and ping the low oil light. This typically took me 2 qts to top it back off at this point.

The issue got progressively worse over the final lifespan of the engine. More than likely it is loss from blowby and valve guides. If you pull your intake and throttle body you will likely find a lot of oil there. Over the final months i started just using cheap oil since it was burning it at a good pace.

Be glad to help you with swap info once you get to that point.
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
I'm glad you're logged-on here CaseyS. The Jeep guys have all been there done that...for 40 years or so (including many 4BT swaps) but, its cool to see somebody pushing extreme mods on an H3. Its exciting to see "firsts", and your work is not going un-noticed. Thanks for sharing all the valuable info.

I have plans for a Frankenstein H3-diesel build sometime in the future. I can't bring myself to do it to my current H3 (only 40K miles)...but I would certainly do it to a road-hard, worn-out, salvage-title H3. I already have the solid-axle stuff, tires, bumpers, etc. put aside for it...just waiting for the right donor H3. Having followed your swap...I gotta say I might be leaning more toward a gutted & bombed version. Replace the carpet with Rhino. Hit the motor with +12v, fuel, and coolant. Bypass the ECM and install a push-button starter. Gut the dash cluster and install analog tach, speedo, and guages. Cut the roof off...add a roll cage...murder it out with flat black...and go shove some trees over with it!

To simplify even further...I'm also leaning toward a stick-shift, and would most likely use a drivers-side transfer case along with a drivers-side Dana 44 to match. I could finally get the 2WD I always wanted. I posted a few pics of this motor/tranny combo in the "other stuff" section...

http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?6908-Cummins-4BT-powered-TJ

Few diesels are more obnoxious than the 4BT...they sound like freakin tractors! Very simple, cool, old-school, and I find that appealing...especially in such a hi-tech platform as the H3. Great job on the swap...looking forward to more info as you get it de-bugged.
 

Kyle

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,707
Location
Santa Clarita, CA
Kyle, how many miles on your engine? This is the exact failure mode mine experienced. I ran mobil 1 and would normally go 10-15k sometimes more on an oil change. The engine lasted to 259k on the odometer uncorrected for my 35s so its actually higher. When the oil level is low, a hard stop will push oil away from the pickup and ping the low oil light. This typically took me 2 qts to top it back off at this point.

The issue got progressively worse over the final lifespan of the engine. More than likely it is loss from blowby and valve guides. If you pull your intake and throttle body you will likely find a lot of oil there. Over the final months i started just using cheap oil since it was burning it at a good pace.

Be glad to help you with swap info once you get to that point.

Well the engine had about 86k on it! unfortunately due to my wrong doing, i no longer have my hummer, but when i get another one, ill being doing a 4bt swap instantly!!:thumbs:
 
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