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Misfire at Idle

Jeremy

Well-Known Member
Messages
51
Location
Knoxville, TN
I had the same problem, I took apart my drive shaft, cleaned it out with a cleaner and a toothbrush and then I replaced all 5 spark plugs and cleaned my air filter with an oil and it helped significantly. It didn't stop it completely but helped a lot and I got a lot of HP back.
 

napalmsticks

Well-Known Member
Messages
144
Location
NM
Getting ready to replace the cylinder head this weekend. Was looking at the FSM and noticed that the Camshaft gear bolts (intake camshaft sprocket bolt and exhaust camshaft position actuator bolt) seemed to be TTY. I have never seen camshaft bolts that are TTY before... Anyone have a GM part number for them?
 

napalmsticks

Well-Known Member
Messages
144
Location
NM
Always something with this truck...
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06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,506
Location
Meridian, ID
Where are you located? In the rust belt it's common. The bushing rusts to the mount basically welds itself and doesn't allow movement. I haven't heard of anyone in SoCal or west coast having this issue. Best way to avoid it is to coat the sleeve and mount with anti seize to prevent it rusting (aka welding itself) together
 

napalmsticks

Well-Known Member
Messages
144
Location
NM
I am in VA. Replaced both leaf springs. Got the cylinder head off, snapped off three head bolts and the crank moved on me enough to spit the tensioner tool. I guess I have to now drop the oil pan and remove the front cover. Anyone know of any write ups on how to remove the oil pan?
 

cory9oh4

Well-Known Member
Messages
132
Location
Florida
Dang, bro. This seems like murphys law on you. Hopefully all turns out better and it will be worth it in the end. I wish I had all this mechanical know how.
 

napalmsticks

Well-Known Member
Messages
144
Location
NM
broken bolts out, everything off the front of the engine minus the harmonic balancer. Still trying to figure out how I plan to drop the oil pan. It looks like it is going to be a PITA...
 

napalmsticks

Well-Known Member
Messages
144
Location
NM
Got the harmonic balancer off yesterday, I shoved a long crowbar in between the flywheel and torque converter and it broke loose pretty quick with a long cheater bar. Dropped the front diff, steering rack, cross member, and oil pan. It was pretty tough to get to but I felt a relief once everything was apart. I broke the plastic piece on the timing chain tensioner and the plastic on timing chain shoe somehow so I am torquing down the head then I am kinda at a standstill until I can find parts. Thinking maybe I should take pictures as I put it back together to do a "How To" or something.

Side note for the head bolts the manual doesn't call for them to be lubed before torquing in the manual under Sealers, Adhesives, and Lubricants on page 7 or under the replacement procedure on page 144. I assume they should be installed dry right?

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napalmsticks

Well-Known Member
Messages
144
Location
NM
I can see the light at the end of the tunnel!
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napalmsticks

Well-Known Member
Messages
144
Location
NM
Done. She runs! I have a service stab system message. From what I am reading it is because I failed to secure the steering wheel before dropping the rack, I saw something about a paperclip fix. Anyone have any details on how to reset the steering position sensor?
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
I have re-centered the Steering Wheel Position Sensor before...and yes, I did use a paperclip. I will say that to get this sensor out-of-calibration, the wheel had to be installed one full turn (or more) off of true center in either direction. It's actually quite easy for this to happen accidentally during steering rack work.

One thing about this issue is, that it is almost always is accompanied by malfunctioning or non-functioning horn, airbag, wipers, cruise, or washers. The smart switch assembly that controls all of these, has a small ribbon cable spooled up inside of it. There is enough length built into the cable, to allow the H3's steering wheel to rotate the approx. 4 turns stop-to-stop (or 2 turns in either direction from center)...without breaking. But, if you hook-up the wheel one full turn off from true center...then you essentially have 3-turns of cable slack in direction, but only 1-turn of cable slack in the other direction. The first time you turn a tight corner in that direction...SNAP! It's junk. Your dash will light up like a KISS concert.

All of this has nothing to do with the Steering Angle Position Sensor itself but, the two items are related. If one device is out a full turn...usually the other one is also out one full turn. So if you have service Stabilitrac light, and your horn, airbag, turn-signals, cruise control, and all that other stuff...still works okay...then the problem might be from some other sensor. Or you got lucky and haven't turned sharp enough yet to snap the ribbon cable. Check the code and see if it points to a specific device.

If you do find out the problem is the SWPS, then you're in luck and you can fix it. Common myths:

NO! ...there is no such thing as a "digital reset" for the SWPS (even though the dealer often uses this excuse). It must be done by physically re-centering the sensor.
NO! ...you do not need to replace the SWPS, just because its out of calibration. Its just faster to open a box and stick a new one on....than fart around with a paperclip to get the used one re-centered.
YES! ...you can re-center a used SWPS. It must be removed from the column and rotated, so a lock-pin (paper-clip) can get re-inserted into the alignment holes on the sensor.
ONLY ...after the SWPS, the Smart switch, the column shaft itself, and the front suspension are all sitting in their true center position...can the column be re-installed and the lock-pins removed.

Related post here: http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?4394-Stabil-Trac-Error-still
 

napalmsticks

Well-Known Member
Messages
144
Location
NM
I don't currently have a way to look up stabilitrac codes. Everything else seems to work still, maybe I should try to rotate the steering wheel a turn and re-stab the rack.
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
You might try taking it loose at the rack and VERY gently turn the wheel back & forth...try to "feel" the ends of the ribbon cable bring the wheel to a stop. True center will be right in between the ends of travel.
 

napalmsticks

Well-Known Member
Messages
144
Location
NM
It took two tries but I finally got it. On the second try the light went out about 20 ft from the end of the driveway. Thanks for the help 4speed!
 
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