Ok so today was a great day! Getting the motor, trans, t case in was tough at first, for some reason the motor mounts seem that it was too close together at the frame rail causing the bolts to not line up. That was where I had left off but going in with a fresh mind it dawned on me that when I had put on my bumper it seemed as if I had to actually bring my framerails in together a tad by ratchet strapping and eventually adding in a crossmember, It added a good amount of rigidity to the frame I guess because once I removed the bumper and crossmember it allowed the frame rails to spread enough to get the motor to drop right in to the mounts. BIZARRE! Either way with all the off roading and side winching I have done my frame rails may not be as straight as others but I do not have legit proof on that via a body shop. Its just an assumption. Either way I got the motor mounts in. It was a sigh of relief, so yes Current performance Motor mounts do work! then put my crossmember and bumper back on
The mounts are slotted so when it was time line up the trans/t case mount I could move it to make it line up. I had the motor as far forward as possible, they did fit but ideally the motor should have been up just ever so slightly to make it fit perfectly. My crossmember is not stock, when I did the SAS I made a new one to allow the use of longer control arms and when I built it it fit PERFECTLY with the OEM setup so I dont believe its the custom crossmember I made but the placement is ever so slightly off. Either way I can modify the crossmember a tad to move the mount back literally less then a 1/4 of an inch but like CaseyS said if its within a half of inch I should be fine.
After that it was time to get the flex plate bolted up to the torque converter and when I started to bolt the starter up I noticed 2 things, with the new oil pan and a bellhousing from an envoy there were 2 bolts that were longer to accomdate the other oil pan that sat much further down and the 2 bolts interfered with the oil filter and the other starter. Simple fix though, get the same bolts but a half an inch shorter. I think the starter one, because its connected to the block it should have a shorter bolt but I couldnt find it, either way a shorter bolt will do it.
The big question was the intake manifold. The rest of the swap has gone in without major firewall modification but I heard the intake manifold would be the worst. I spent no more then 5 min hammering the pinch seam back and the intake manifold fit. This was awesome! For years when we had heard that the H3 alpha had firewall modifications I thought they were major but in reality its nothing crazy.
The A/C compressor was also reinstalled, I had to take it out because it was in the way of installing the frame motor mount bolt from earlier so I put that back on. I also put away the coolant tank and windshield washer tank too.
I took the envoy fan and fan clutch off as they stick out very far. I am going to get an alpha fan and clutch, they will sit closer to the block and will hopefully fit with the OEM radiator where as the envoy one would not.
no more fan for now
I also had to cap off the vaccum line for the brake booster, H3s dont need it so it was capped off.
old line and the new cap
Tomorrow is my longest day of the week and wont get to work on much but thursday I would like to get the A/C condenser, radiator, and intake box installed. Zach has my MAF sensor, o2 sensors and rad hoses on order so they should be here soon. Harness is here soon also. I also can reuse my return line for the PS lines so I will hook that up but I need to go get a new pressure line made for the power steering. These lines are MUCH shorter then the lines for the I5 on a SAS. The box and the pump are literally right next to each other where with the I5 they are on opposite sides of the truck.
I still need to figure out fuel lines, A/C lines will be custom made, I could order the H3 alpha ones but for the price I can probably have them made cheaper.
Its slowly getting there