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Rebuilt the lower control arm today

alrock

alrock

El Diablo
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Scottsdale
I think this is the second replacment/rebuild on the driver's side. The passenger side had its second rebuild a long time ago.

Put in new AC Delco bushings and a new OEM ball joint (thanks Panzer). The rear bushing was oozing out. It wasn't a complete failure yet but I didn't want to wait until it was. As usual, it was a test of patience getting the rubber bushing into the control arm. The existing ball joint was fine but it's an easy replacement and a good time to do it.

Anyway, here are a couple of pics so y'all know what a failing bushing can look like.

Rear bushing is pushing out of its metal sleeve towards the front of the H3
i-t9jjxQd-L.jpg


As compared to a new one
i-D6DgFd2-L.jpg


The back side of it
i-pqsMp6c-L.jpg


The front bushing wasn't too torn up
i-J5wzBJL-L.jpg


I didn't do pics of the install as I think I've done that before.
 
Peep

Peep

Well-Known Member
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417
Location
Belize
can you show a pic after installed, want to compare, so i can see how bad mine is
 
0

08H3

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1,368
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United States
Any tips oe tricks? Looks like a simple, straightforward project, but those are usually the ones that turn into a an afternoon of swearing.
 
alrock

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
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Location
Scottsdale
Bushings are 15088365 (front, I think) and 15088366 (rear, I think).

Front - this is just a rubber bushing with no metal sleeve or insert. To get the old one out, you can push it out with a ball joint press or similar. To insert the new one into the LCA, first clean out the LCA of any rubber residue inside the metal so you have a smooth, clean surface. We used a tiny amount of silicone lube to overcome resistance between rubber and metal, but not enough to make it slippery.

We pressed the bushing into the LCA using a ball joint press and cranking it with a ratchet. When we used an impact, even going slow, it was too fast and the bushing would pop out. To press it in properly, use the ball joint press and compress the bushing slowly. Eventually, one side will hopefully go in and it will look like it's going to break. As long as it doesn't pop out, keep going. It will eventually push through. It took us about ten tries to get it to take.

For the rear bushing, first measure the position of the bushing in the frame. You'll want to put in the new one with the same amount of bushing showing. Use a little penetrating oil to help release the sleeve from the frame. Use a ball joint press or even an air hammer to push out the bushing from the frame.

To insert, we used a ball joint press and whatever fixtures, plates, materials we could find to squeeze in there and push the bushing in. There's not a lot of room. (We actually took out the two side diff mount bolts so we could rotate the diff about an inch to gain more room.)

The ball joint presses in/out easily with a ball joint press.
 
4speedfunk

4speedfunk

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4,250
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Tardville
You did all that for a rubber bushing? Seems like a urethane upgrade is needed. I realize there is probably no such critter available but, you could perhaps find a bushing that is slightly larger, and lathe it down to fit. I've done similar bushing swaps in the past by blowing out the old ones with a torch, cleaning the steel sleeve with a sandpaper drum on a drill, then pressing a urethane bushing back into the original sleeve. I did a 79 Malibu rear suspension this way (stock four-link). Only downside is that you might feel a lot more road vibes getting transmitted to the truck. But, the trade-off is that urethane does not collapse and change the geometry as quickly as rubber. Keeps the whole suspension where its supposed to be.

I get H3s pulling in & out of here all the time, and pretty much all of em have bulging or rotted LCA bushings. Unless somebody absolutely insists on it...I refuse to touch em! Its a nasty job and you deserve praise for tackling it.
 
C

clickclickboom

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Messages
149
Location
indianapolis
I've been thinking the same thing. Seems like a lot of squeaks and rattles could be solved by a poly bushing kit for control arms, body mounts, and rear leaf springs.
 
alrock

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
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Location
Scottsdale
4speedfunk said:
You did all that for a rubber bushing? Seems like a urethane upgrade is needed. I realize there is probably no such critter available but, you could perhaps find a bushing that is slightly larger, and lathe it down to fit. I've done similar bushing swaps in the past by blowing out the old ones with a torch, cleaning the steel sleeve with a sandpaper drum on a drill, then pressing a urethane bushing back into the original sleeve. I did a 79 Malibu rear suspension this way (stock four-link). Only downside is that you might feel a lot more road vibes getting transmitted to the truck. But, the trade-off is that urethane does not collapse and change the geometry as quickly as rubber. Keeps the whole suspension where its supposed to be.

I get H3s pulling in & out of here all the time, and pretty much all of em have bulging or rotted LCA bushings. Unless somebody absolutely insists on it...I refuse to touch em! Its a nasty job and you deserve praise for tackling it.
Click to expand...
I'd often agree but these really don't fail that often. The bushing work itself is under 30 minutes; the rest is getting the LCA off of the vehicle. Maybe I don't mind it as I've done it about five or six times between my truck and others. We spent about 90 minutes doing this (and changing sway bar end link). Of course with Reloader's lift these jobs are a bit easier.

Peep, here's your pic.
i-Tzk7Sp8-L.jpg
 
4speedfunk

4speedfunk

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Tardville
Its not that I won't tackle it. Its just that it does nothing to improve the truck. You do all that work just to get it back to the weak factory design...then you can do it again in another 75k miles. I tackle the problem in a slightly different manner (chop)...

Hummer parts 064.JPG
 
alrock

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,667
Location
Scottsdale
4speedfunk said:
Its not that I won't tackle it. Its just that it does nothing to improve the truck. You do all that work just to get it back to the weak factory design...then you can do it again in another 75k miles. I tackle the problem in a slightly different manner (chop)...
Click to expand...
Do you even have 75K miles on your H3? :2funny
 
4speedfunk

4speedfunk

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Tardville
Oh hell no...mine is a cream puff (49k). I'm talking about the 150k turds that roll in & out of here every month.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
4speedfunk

4speedfunk

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4,250
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Tardville
Haha true.

Btw...the new THORparts front bumper will have some openings that would be perfect for intercooler intakes.


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