RR slider problems

[Major Tom]

My RR sliders were looking pretty bad, powder coat flaking off and starting to rust. I figured I would remove them and have them blasted and re-coated.They have been on the truck for about four years so I knew the bolts were going to give me some problems. I sprayed the bolts with PB blaster solevent for three days thinking this would help with the process. l started with the passenger side first and as I thought the bolts gave me a lot of problems. A lot more solvent and a breaker bar and finally they all came out. On to the drivers side ,a lot worse. I got the first two out, and then the problems began. I snapped off thee of the bolts. The sliders are off ,but I have no idea what do next. Anyone else bust off a bolt in the frame. HELP any sugestions ??

 

[Hunner]

A liberal coat of anti-seize would have helped prevent that. You should do that next time. I also used shorter bolts than they sent with them. Once the bolt has gone thru the nut flush to the other side there is not much point in having a longer bolt. '
You will have to try to center drill those bolts, go to Sears for some good ez outs they have some new ones that work great. They have reversed threads and grip better than the old style. DeWalt makes some drill bits with a center starting tip that don't crawl as bad as regular bits. Starting with a center punch might also help.
My rails still look good, you guys up north must get lots of road chemicals on them in the winter.
Sorry for your problem. I mentioned that in my install in 06 as I knew lots of mud and water could also cause that.

 

[06 H3]

Sorry to hear about that nightmare. Hunner gave the best advice on getting them out imo. Id do what hunner said if I were in your shoes

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[Major Tom]

I DID use anti seize when I installed them

 

[Hunner]

Use more!! lol Is it that good kind that has lots of copper bits in it? That stuff migrates. I always kid about when you open it be prepared, it' going to get on everything.
You might have to have an annual ritual of before and after winter remove them and lather them up. Shorter bolts allows me to use an impact up in there where with the long ones the tool runs out of room when starting and backing out.
I love the PBlaster and use it liberally for removing things.

 

[Major Tom]

I got lucky and was able to weld a nut to the broken bolts and remove them. Even with the nuts welded on I had to heat the area in the frame with a torch before they would come out. I am taking Hunners advice and will be putting shorter bolts in for the re-install. The picture with two bolts is the difference. The one on the left is what came with the sliders, the one on the right is what I am going to use as a replacement

 

[cgalpha08]

When i put mine on ill be using the anti seize stuff, and advice for cleaning out the threads in the frame?

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[Major Tom]

I sprayed the threads with PB blaster(or some thing like WD-40) and blew them out with a air hose. I then ran the new bolts in an out by hand to make sure the threads were not damaged. If they go in hard I would use a tap. it is a device that cleans and recuts the threads

 

[cgalpha08]

I sprayed the threads with PB blaster(or some thing like WD-40) and blew them out with a air hose. I then ran the new bolts in an out by hand to make sure the threads were not damaged. If they go in hard I would use a tap. it is a device that cleans and recuts the threads

Alright thanks. I did use the es 40 and run them in and out, still very hard, ill prob go get a tap and use it.

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[Happy Hummer]

Being from rust belt hell...I use gear greas on all my bolts for steps and such. Also soak bolts in old motor oil b4 hand.
Chris

 

[Hunner]

You can actually get a "thread chaser" bit, it's like a tap but smaller and not as aggressive pitch so does not recut any thread each time you use it. That way you don't risk cross threading a new bolt. Then remember to make a few turns and back out, flush, make a few turns and back out.

 

[Major Tom]

off to the sandblaster

 

[Mr_Rich]

One option would be to paint them with POR-15 once they come back from being sandblasted. POR-15 has the look of powdercoating and is a tougher finish. I use a foam brush to paint my parts and then use a small sprayer for a smooth finish coat. There is a POR-15 undercoat that is photo-sensitive. Top coat with non-photo sensitive POR-15. That's what I would use on my sliders.

 

[Major Tom]

I am not going to powder coat them again. I was thinking on going with extreme chassis paint from Eastwood . That is what I used when I re-did my BA bumper and it is holding up great, and it is also easy to touch up. I have never heard of POR-15 I will have to research it. Thanks

 

[Trekker]

I've been there and I feel your pain. I've busted off a bolt in the frame and had to drill it out and tap it. The powder coating is almost non-existent on my RR sliders. I took them off, stripped as much rust off as I could and re-rattle canned them. I guess the next step is to get them blasted and powder coated again.

 

[Major Tom]

blasted, primed, and painted with dupli-color truck bed liner

 

[Bigunit]

Wow, you did one heck of a great job on those - they look brand new! :cheers:

 

[Major Tom]

Thanks