shock upgrade ' Pro Comp ES9000 '

[rollerlocked]

I took a colleague for a ride with me in the hummer and he stated "your vehicle is diving hard in corners and seems to have excessive body roll," I then took a ride in his 07 2wd I6 trailblazer , it does not body roll as badly and definitely doesn't dive in corners . I take the Hummer offroad 2-3 times a month "mostly in farm fields and swampy areas." The first day I had the Hummer, I took it down a washboard gravel road and the back end kept wanting to swing out front of me at anything over 15 MPH . I used to take my Honda Odyssey minivan down this same gravel road at 45MPH with no control issues . So long story "even longer" I am going to go on the assumption that no maintenance has ever been done and figured its overdue for shocks. After digging around on the H4O forum and google.com all night I have decided on the Pro Comp ES9000 shocks . I placed the Order thru Summit Racing and will get some pictures together after the install . Anyone install these shocks on a Hummer H3 and have real world experience with them?

Part information posted below.

ES9000 Series general statement from there website.
The Pro Comp ES9000 is the ultimate nitrogen gas charged shock absorber. With its twin tube design and 10 stage velocity sensitive valving, the ES9000 delivers not only a smooth, comfortable highway ride, but it also enhances off road handling and performance. Engineered for those driving enthusiasts demanding optimum capacity for heavy loads as well as the most demanding driving conditions. It’s a 1 3/8” nylon banded full displacement piston head and double welded shock mounts ensure maximum strength and long lasting durability.

http://www.procompusa.com/productli...MMER&Model=H3+BASE&Engine=3.7L+L5+223+CID+GAS


Pro Comp ES9000 Front Shock part # 915580
Twin tube design and 10 stage velocity sensitive valving delivers a smooth, comfortable high ride, but also enhances off road handling and performance. A 1 3/8 nylon banded full displacement piston head and double welded shock mounts ensure maximum strength and long lasting durability; 15.5 in. extended; 10.17 in. collapsed

http://www.procompusa.com/prodDetail.aspx?partNo=EXP915580&catID=1&subCat=90&ptID=3306&plID=1820

Pro Comp ES9000 rear shock part # 924503
Twin tube design and 10 stage velocity sensitive valving delivers a smooth, comfortable high ride, but also enhances off road handling and performance. A 1 3/8 nylon banded full displacement piston head and double welded shock mounts ensure maximum strength and long lasting durability; 24.84 in. extended; 14.82 in. collapsed

http://www.procompusa.com/prodDetail.aspx?partNo=EXP924503&catID=1&subCat=90&ptID=3306&plID=1820

Pro Comp shock boots part # 12127
These high quality shock boots protect the chrome-hardened piston rod from dirt, dust, mud and other contaminants - extending the life of your shocks. Poly-Vinyl Shock Boot; Pair; Black

http://www.procompusa.com/prodDetail.aspx?partNo=EXP12127&catID=1&subCat=90&ptID=4139&plID=1848

 

[rollerlocked]

They've arrive...


Rear installed...


Front installed...

 

[Renagade132]

I'm interested in getting new shocks for my H2, but I usually hear that the Bilsteins are the best, any suggestions from anyone?

 

[LoJac963]

I'm looking into starting to go through my front and rear suspension as well. I too have heard the Bilsteins are the best, best ride quality as well. Coupled with the Bilstein steering stabilizer, supposed to make a world of difference.

 

[citiboy]

Installed Bilstein 5100 shocks front and rear and Bilstein steering stabilizer. I like the ride quality, couldn't be happier.

 

[Pappibri]

I bought a set and put them on. Thought the ride sucked, and then the mounting bushing came out on one of them. I would steer people away from them. I went back to new OEM ones and the ride is alot better than they were
Sent from my RM-820_nam_att_100 using Tapatalk

 

[Best4x4]

5100's are a great shock. I had Pro Comp's on several of my Jeep's and one Land Rover and the were crappy. Ride was extremely hard, finish on the shocks was horrible and they turned a lovely rust brown rather quickly.

My favorite shocks are OME, Bilstein, and Black Diamond (not sure if they're made anymore).

I have the 5100's on my Alpha and the ride is excellent along with fit/finish.

 

[LoJac963]

The stainless finish of the 5100's also makes them look awesome in my book. Once the new wheels and tires are paid off I'm going to order a set of 5100's with the steering stabilizer.

 

[Happy Hummer]

Chose to purchase 2 sets of Gabriel ultra HD from amazon.
Did allot of research and these came with a warranty. Very nice shocks.

Chris

 

[Best4x4]

Some people have had good luck with the Monroe Select Trac's (kinda look like a 5100).

 

[rollerlocked]

It took about an hour to do both the rear shocks , they came out and new ones went back in with no problem . I then proceeded to the front driver side and it took 1.5 to 2 hours to get it out, I got stuck on the top bolt it was seized to the shaft . I attempted to take stuff out of the engine bay to get to it from the top with an impact gun , to no avail. I finally just pulled out a cut off wheel and cut the nut off the top of the shock. I then moved over to the front passenger side and I didn't even try to get the nut loose I went straight to cutting it off. The passenger side took 10 minutes or less . The factory shocks that I removed did not seem that worn , they still had good resistance and didn't stay down when compressed.

-tools required for this job-
13/16 socket (front and rear lower bolt and nut) a 21mm is close and is useable , but a 13/16 is the correct socket
13/16 wrench (front and rear lower bolt and nut) a 21mm is close and is useable , but a 13/16 is the correct wrench
10mm socket (rear upper shock mount)
15mm wrench (front upper shock mount) < factory nut
19mm wrench (front upper shock mount) < Pro Comp front upper shock mount nut
bench vice (for pushing in the rear upper shock mount)

-Other tools that would have been nice to have for this job-
A thread chaser or die for all 4 lower shock mount bolts, the rear bolts may be end of life.

I have ridden on the new shocks for about 100 miles so far, and it is definitely better. It no longer dives in corners , and seems to level out quicker after the corner...

 

[Ghostbuster]

How is it when you go over bumps and hit pot holes and stuff? Is it kinda stiff?

 

[rollerlocked]

It all rides fine , not to stiff , not to loose , all my driving is done between 25-55mph mostly on curvy back roads in the country.

 

[Best4x4]

Keep an eye on the bushings. All the pro comps I ever had the bushings didn't last long at all. Upgraded them to poly bushings before going with OME or Bilstein's on my Jeeps. I do like the MX6 but not sure they make em for H3's.

 

[RazorbackH3]

Hey rollerlocked, glad they are working for you... I've been running with the Procomp ES9000 shocks on my H3 for about 8 months (20,000 miles) now and haven't been very impressed by them since mile 1... It does help with sway/body roll and coming out of corners but the ride quality is very stiff/bone-jarring, there's just very little in the way of absorbing when it comes to hitting bumps/pot holes... Seem like great shocks if you tow heavy loads or carry a lot of stuff because the back end doesn't sag very much... but overall I'd give them a 3/10... just not what I'd hoped they'd be... will probably go to Bilstein 5100's next.

 

[benlaud87]

I just replaced my rear shocks. It was way more of a PITA than it should have been

 

[Best4x4]

Hardest shocks I've ever had to remove was off of a 2DR Montero. Darn Japanese used loctite on the bolts.... Had to cut em off. H3 was a 30min job for all four!

 

[benlaud87]

the eyelet was too wide to fit the new rear shock tabs, and I had to change the way I had the reservoirs mounted.

 

[K0PIR]

Is yours leveled?

It took about an hour to do both the rear shocks , they came out and new ones went back in with no problem . I then proceeded to the front driver side and it took 1.5 to 2 hours to get it out, I got stuck on the top bolt it was seized to the shaft . I attempted to take stuff out of the engine bay to get to it from the top with an impact gun , to no avail. I finally just pulled out a cut off wheel and cut the nut off the top of the shock. I then moved over to the front passenger side and I didn't even try to get the nut loose I went straight to cutting it off. The passenger side took 10 minutes or less . The factory shocks that I removed did not seem that worn , they still had good resistance and didn't stay down when compressed.

-tools required for this job-
13/16 socket (front and rear lower bolt and nut) a 21mm is close and is useable , but a 13/16 is the correct socket
13/16 wrench (front and rear lower bolt and nut) a 21mm is close and is useable , but a 13/16 is the correct wrench
10mm socket (rear upper shock mount)
15mm wrench (front upper shock mount) < factory nut
19mm wrench (front upper shock mount) < Pro Comp front upper shock mount nut
bench vice (for pushing in the rear upper shock mount)

-Other tools that would have been nice to have for this job-
A thread chaser or die for all 4 lower shock mount bolts, the rear bolts may be end of life.

I have ridden on the new shocks for about 100 miles so far, and it is definitely better. It no longer dives in corners , and seems to level out quicker after the corner...

Thanks for the writeup. This will surely help me out. I just got my Pro Comp shocks delivered today. Just wondering, have you leveled your H3? I'm replacing my shocks because I just leveled it to 23 3/4" and I read we need a little longer (.5") shock which the Pro Comp is.

 

[rollerlocked]

Mine is definately not leveled front to back...

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

I'm using skyjacker lift shocks, they have more travel than the suspension... and after several months, they are better than the POS Rancho 9000s I replaced.