As always these are just my findings from my experience having had all this apart several times.
I remembered this was not posted since the change so this may help some people save some $$ after leveling until they need to buy shocks anyway and can then make a choice as to what brand to get and added length. Probably seen by many in different places but now hopefully searchable on this forum. Now I can just refer people to this link.
Whatever you get it should be about 1/2 inch longer than OEM if you crank the torsions to 23 1/2 which is a far as I would go. I tried 24 and it is, I think a bit too much lift and the ride and handling suffers and the shocks will jerk being extended to their upper limits. I call that "topping out" not bottoming out which to me is hitting bottom when compressed.
It (edit)(cranking the t bars) will also increase your CV angles and tie rod angles causing them to push UP more than in and out on the steering rack. That will, as I will probably repeat, create more pressure and increase possibility of tie rod damage and reduce the life of the pass side rack mount bushing and rack.
I discovered a while back, 2006, that by disconnecting the stock shock (it will also affect anti-sway bar links and tie rods) there is 1/2+ inch more droop. Thus the whole adding a 1/2 nut to the top under the upper mount I came up with, (found one in the junk drawer) before Bilsteins the right length and lower clevis mount were found. Which are listed as for a K1500 series lifted pickup.
F4-BE5-C153-HO front
F4-BE5 6254 H5 rear
One more option is the tie rod. If you undo the outer end you get a tad more. That can only be achieved by using a different design. Stock will articulate 23 degrees but the set I had made will go 30 degrees, more than the suspension will. That's all folks, at that point the upper a-arm would almost be on the "metal" bump stop on the frame and can hit under extreme conditions.
First shot at full droop
The links will reach but be at full cocked up maxed out angle and probably still holding up some travel. This is with both of them level to show how much of a reach it is with the shocks extended or disconnected.
The stock tie rods articulate to about 23 degrees and max out at the inner connection. Which some have discovered contributes to bent or broken tie rods and reduces the life of the pass side steering rack bushing.
This is a 1/2 inch nut that is,,,,,1/2 inch tall. It does not thread on the shock just drop it on. That will space the shock down.
This is the stock shock at full droop disconnected. You can tell it would require lifting the lower a-arm to reconnect, about 1/2 inch.
this is how close the stock shock comes at full droop with the nut on top. I stopped here as I was concerned about a hard hit on the metal stop. The stock shock supposedly has the internal bump stop so that softens the final stroke. I can see an upper stop but would have to cut one to see if there is actually one for full extension.
This is a Bilstein at full droop.
I later added limit straps with the stock shocks just to make sure on my 06. That would be if you wheel really hard and are hanging at full droop on very uneven trails from time to time. I was so I tried it. Now on the Alpha with stiffer torsions and BP tie rods and Bilstiens I am slightly tapping that stop but not enough that to have done any damage as of now. The arrow shows the metal bump stop on the frame I refer to. I did not want the upper A-arm coming down on that with enough force to cause damage. I put chalk on it and tested that theory.
I will add that travel up limit is solved by the suspension reaching it's top limit and then pushing and lifting the front of the vehicle. Tire size can also limit up travel. However I did run some 315's and the suspension travel will stop before they hit the fender liner, unless you have gumbo mud caked on. Those will also rub the anti-sway bar at full lock in some cases.
I did not like the nose dive after leveling when braking or the body roll going into curves so in 2006 I also combined two OEM progressive rubber springs or bump stops to make one 1/2 inch longer and take out that space.
Phil had some made out of stiffer material which work great if you have a winch, mount and brush guard weight on the front. The extra firmness is not really felt with that setup and again the stiffer Alpha torsions make a difference in combination with Bilsteins give me the control I was wanting.
If you want even more droop the anti-sway bar links are maxed out cocked up at their max, before full droop. I replaced those with some Curries they call fabricators model because of their length I could custom cut them. They have the correct size bolts to fit the H3. The first ones, shown here on top, I tried I was not happy with the strength and build and bolt size. The Curries are great. I got them from someone building a custom rock crawler the day before a MOAB trip.
My Frankenbump prototype.
This is the new design at full droop.
Here is a dissected OEM Tenneco shock off my 06 showing the internal bump stop.
Here is an OEM and Bilstein with the lower ends lined up but showing the top ends. You can see the Bilstein is longer but that adding 1/2 to the OEM will get you that length also. On the Bilstein that lower bushing is against the stop on the shaft. Boots generally cover the shaft.
I measure shocks from the center of the lower eye to the top of the lower (top end) bushing. It is my understanding so does Bilstein. Despite other posts contradictory to my actual measurement and shock length these fronts are 17 inches NOT 18 inches. That is the measurement you need to know to fill the distance between lower mount and upper mount. It makes a difference ya know?
I have tried to update this often so some of it may repeat or sound out of context. I tried to be specific and to answer questions that I am repeatedly asked to better help those wanting to try this.
If you cranked the torsions and somehow don't feel the degradation of the front suspension then I guess, no problem?
Anyone see any errors or corrections needed please notify me.
I remembered this was not posted since the change so this may help some people save some $$ after leveling until they need to buy shocks anyway and can then make a choice as to what brand to get and added length. Probably seen by many in different places but now hopefully searchable on this forum. Now I can just refer people to this link.
Whatever you get it should be about 1/2 inch longer than OEM if you crank the torsions to 23 1/2 which is a far as I would go. I tried 24 and it is, I think a bit too much lift and the ride and handling suffers and the shocks will jerk being extended to their upper limits. I call that "topping out" not bottoming out which to me is hitting bottom when compressed.
It (edit)(cranking the t bars) will also increase your CV angles and tie rod angles causing them to push UP more than in and out on the steering rack. That will, as I will probably repeat, create more pressure and increase possibility of tie rod damage and reduce the life of the pass side rack mount bushing and rack.
I discovered a while back, 2006, that by disconnecting the stock shock (it will also affect anti-sway bar links and tie rods) there is 1/2+ inch more droop. Thus the whole adding a 1/2 nut to the top under the upper mount I came up with, (found one in the junk drawer) before Bilsteins the right length and lower clevis mount were found. Which are listed as for a K1500 series lifted pickup.
F4-BE5-C153-HO front
F4-BE5 6254 H5 rear
One more option is the tie rod. If you undo the outer end you get a tad more. That can only be achieved by using a different design. Stock will articulate 23 degrees but the set I had made will go 30 degrees, more than the suspension will. That's all folks, at that point the upper a-arm would almost be on the "metal" bump stop on the frame and can hit under extreme conditions.
First shot at full droop
The links will reach but be at full cocked up maxed out angle and probably still holding up some travel. This is with both of them level to show how much of a reach it is with the shocks extended or disconnected.
The stock tie rods articulate to about 23 degrees and max out at the inner connection. Which some have discovered contributes to bent or broken tie rods and reduces the life of the pass side steering rack bushing.
This is a 1/2 inch nut that is,,,,,1/2 inch tall. It does not thread on the shock just drop it on. That will space the shock down.
This is the stock shock at full droop disconnected. You can tell it would require lifting the lower a-arm to reconnect, about 1/2 inch.
this is how close the stock shock comes at full droop with the nut on top. I stopped here as I was concerned about a hard hit on the metal stop. The stock shock supposedly has the internal bump stop so that softens the final stroke. I can see an upper stop but would have to cut one to see if there is actually one for full extension.
This is a Bilstein at full droop.
I later added limit straps with the stock shocks just to make sure on my 06. That would be if you wheel really hard and are hanging at full droop on very uneven trails from time to time. I was so I tried it. Now on the Alpha with stiffer torsions and BP tie rods and Bilstiens I am slightly tapping that stop but not enough that to have done any damage as of now. The arrow shows the metal bump stop on the frame I refer to. I did not want the upper A-arm coming down on that with enough force to cause damage. I put chalk on it and tested that theory.
I will add that travel up limit is solved by the suspension reaching it's top limit and then pushing and lifting the front of the vehicle. Tire size can also limit up travel. However I did run some 315's and the suspension travel will stop before they hit the fender liner, unless you have gumbo mud caked on. Those will also rub the anti-sway bar at full lock in some cases.
I did not like the nose dive after leveling when braking or the body roll going into curves so in 2006 I also combined two OEM progressive rubber springs or bump stops to make one 1/2 inch longer and take out that space.
Phil had some made out of stiffer material which work great if you have a winch, mount and brush guard weight on the front. The extra firmness is not really felt with that setup and again the stiffer Alpha torsions make a difference in combination with Bilsteins give me the control I was wanting.
If you want even more droop the anti-sway bar links are maxed out cocked up at their max, before full droop. I replaced those with some Curries they call fabricators model because of their length I could custom cut them. They have the correct size bolts to fit the H3. The first ones, shown here on top, I tried I was not happy with the strength and build and bolt size. The Curries are great. I got them from someone building a custom rock crawler the day before a MOAB trip.
My Frankenbump prototype.
This is the new design at full droop.
Here is a dissected OEM Tenneco shock off my 06 showing the internal bump stop.
Here is an OEM and Bilstein with the lower ends lined up but showing the top ends. You can see the Bilstein is longer but that adding 1/2 to the OEM will get you that length also. On the Bilstein that lower bushing is against the stop on the shaft. Boots generally cover the shaft.
I measure shocks from the center of the lower eye to the top of the lower (top end) bushing. It is my understanding so does Bilstein. Despite other posts contradictory to my actual measurement and shock length these fronts are 17 inches NOT 18 inches. That is the measurement you need to know to fill the distance between lower mount and upper mount. It makes a difference ya know?
I have tried to update this often so some of it may repeat or sound out of context. I tried to be specific and to answer questions that I am repeatedly asked to better help those wanting to try this.
If you cranked the torsions and somehow don't feel the degradation of the front suspension then I guess, no problem?
Anyone see any errors or corrections needed please notify me.
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