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SO.... is there really no way to fix the steering rack issue on the H3?

jakesz28

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,056
Location
Cabool MO
Did I miss it? Backcountry, is your new rack broken? Or was it moving from being loose?
The design of our rack was pour bonding aluminum to steel. With a light weight casting and thin tube.

As far as welding to the rack I would tig weld it in short stitches. If you try to cool the weld quickly with water or a wet rag it will distort, and cause the weld to crystallized. Which will weeken it and cause the weld to rip off the thin metal.
 

Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
I agree for the most part and adjust my travels accordingly. Long distance traveled in comfort to do some offroading still allows the H3 to take you on to some great trails. No matter where they are. It helps not to force it but rather finesse it over them,, but chit can still happen.
mt4403-1.jpg

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backcountryislife

Well-Known Member
Messages
858
Location
Dumont, CO
Rack came loose for some reason... moving about an inch.

The bonding of the aluminum to the steel I don't feel is the issue, it's the strength of the aluminum. The break is "where" the steel starts, but it's the aluminum that breaks.

It's just breaking where the aluminum necks down to go inside the steel sleeve.

images


On all mine, the steel is right where it started, but Reaper's has detached some & slid over... a whole different issue.
 

Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
Ok I see now, that's what I call broke!!
The one I broke in 06 looked just about like that.
_DSC7430.jpg

That is when I started the Broken Rack Club.
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That picture you posted looks like this one but I saved it a long time ago after someone posted it. IPE I think.
193492881-L.jpg

closeup_zps5d9be796.jpg


I finally ran across the image of the area Randy outlined to make a "girdle" it was not as long as Schwartzy is proposing and looks like it would depend on that hydraulic fitting to secure it. Not what I would want.
bkt7891_zpsea5798c4.jpg
 
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jakesz28

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,056
Location
Cabool MO
So with it just coming loose and moving more then the factory rubber bushings should have moved. It seems to be a problem with installation and maybe the ABS bushings. I dislike the thin steel mounting point in the passenger side. Hunners bushings if fitted properly should help. I like the thought of two clamps as opposed to one. The fact that the steel is just crimped or dimpled over the small diameter aluminum is week. But others seem to get by.
I haven't attempted to fix mine but the split clamp drawn in this thread looks nice and would be easy to make.

You do push that fairly hard. Then without lockers you may be hitting things harder then you think to make it. A little wheel spin and a quick grab on those bolders is hard. One of my old trucks with a Dana 44 never broke the ring and pinion or locker. But I put more axles in it then you have racks. You know what can happen when the axle breaks at the u joint. It can spread the yoke and shear the ball joint and the wheal basically falls off. Pick the line and easy throttle. By the way that was a manual tranny and clutch in that truck too. Autos are more forgiven.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,506
Location
Meridian, ID
While I agree that h3s are heavy and they are not necessarily designed for rock crawling they will outperform a solid axle vehicle In the desert. I personally do not do much desert high-speed off-roading But more rock crawling with a heavy h3. I don't think it's the weight that is killer It's the lack of clearance. the low ground clearance makes it tougher Trying to overcome some obstacles with large rocks the spring hangers got caught up easily. Look at mel wades JK evo1 It's over 6000 pounds which is heavier than any of our rigs and will still outperform any of us any day. I understand that lightweight buggies will out perform Evo1 but weight isn't really a big issue In my opinion. We really need to Get as much belly clearance as possible If you look at the JK The body is higher off the frame And that's to keep everything above the bottom of the frame rails (For the most part) Our body is closer to the frame but our crossmembers hang much lower. Every time you have to work harder by sliding over obstacles you're just putting more stress and making the obstacle more difficult. I consider BB and recons rigs Rockcrawlers. The front end of the story is fragile which is a problem If we could ram up obstacles it would be a lot easier versus finessing over If we can't make it we pick a new line or take a strap of the jeep can't make it they can ram up and it's still okay...I know this thread is going on a bunch of directions but I don't think weight is a problem for rock crawling
 

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,677
Location
Scottsdale
Moab is different but Bebe had a stock front end for years before the Bebemonster build with a lot of successful California wheeling on the Rubicon, Fordyce, etc. I've done one or two non-Moab trails myself with no lockers, base t-case, etc. and never broken anything. I think I've been lucky, as confirmed by others who've watched my, uh, aggressive style.

I think breakage is a combination of conditions, sturdiness of the components, luck, history and good/bad decisions at just the wrong time. Obviously I can't speak to your exact scenarios but I think we can all speak to breakage that has been framed in the discussion of "If he just didn't do X, he would't have broken Y".

This guy broke his rear axle not because it was a tough climb but because he wouldn't listen to a spotter, couldn't follow the right line and made a bad decision.
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Jeep and Hummers will never be an apples to oranges discussion. But, neither will be vehicles that have seen 60 trails vs. ones who are still in their first few trails. Heck, I've been seeing a pattern where we wheel with someone with a new-to-him H1 and that vehicle ends up failing on the trail because of unknown or missing maintenance or history on various parts. It's not that the H1 is poorly designed but parts may have begun to fail under a previous owner, were not realized upon inspection of the vehicle, and then failed on the trail. It's easy to blame one component, vehicle or brand when we cannot truly evaluate the situations with a consistent, understood and quantifiable measure.

I think the point 06H3 was trying to make is that many H3s have been wheeled hard and have not had the problems you've experienced. Maybe Moab isn't the best example, as it isn't apples to apples to the CO mountains, but there are many other unquoted examples that can be pulled up. I'm not saying your driving is the problem, though it could be. It could be the history of the vehicle. It could be that frame members, cross members, mounting points are out of whack so replacement pieces are already leveraged for failure. I will say that the circumstances you are realizing are not representative for H3s and to broadly compare Jeeps to the particular history for your H3 isn't a representative example for the brand.

BTW, if you want 36 pages of Jeep fail simply Google "Jeep JK regear limp mode".

Yes the H3 has its weak points like any other vehicle. And Jeeps have more replacement parts, perhaps because they sell in 10X the quantity, are still on the market and have been around for I don't know how many years. The oldest H3s are now seven years old - the history of component failure is being written today and isn't already logged in the minds of guys who have been working on Jeeps for 30 years.

This 20 page thread is you and others pioneering the development of solutions for our H3s; it isn't addressing an incurable problem or a massive engineering failure. I love the development we're seeing here. It's similar to the progress over the years and different solutions we've seen with the rear leaf spring hangars. Great ideas, great execution, and new ideas building on the original ones. Note that it took until 2012 for this to become such a big issue and these were built beginning in 2005 - that's a pretty good track record.

I realize you're just making comparisons and trying to reconcile the failures that have been experienced - nothing personal on your end, not personal here either. I just think this evaluation of the H3's steering design and components is excluding some important information.

(BTW, I just Googled "jeep jk steering failure" and came back with 64 pages of fail on jk-forum.) :)
 
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kflips

Well-Known Member
Messages
776
Location
Virginia
A lot of H1 owners have local wrenching events to make sure they maximize upkeep of their trucks . We'll be headed there at some point soon as a community of next gen hummer owners. Maybe there should be an h2, H3, maybe H3T knowledge base established for reference (no pressure to you dedicated admins). It seems to have established a good resource for H1 and HMMWV users on other sites.

That said, and not wanting to change the purpose of the thread, the steering rack coordination on this thread is really appreciated by all of us planning for future issues.
 

elripster

Well-Known Member
Messages
111
Location
San Diego
Being Hummer, Toyota, steering is always a weak link. Toyota's bend idler arms. When they went to racks they broke those. When Toyota's had solid axles in the states they bent the J arms. The final solution for IFS Toyotas fell somewhere along the lines of if you want to wheel hard enough to take body damage get a solid axle otherwise don't crank your t-bars too much and live with the weak steering component.

We will iron out these issues here, we are just as mentioned at the forefront of issue solving.

Frank
 

JGBB04

Well-Known Member
Messages
520
Location
Tampa Bay

Chook

Well-Known Member
Messages
706
Location
Brisbane (Australia)
Rather than wade through 20 pages about the issue to find everyone's solutions to problems I am wondering if we can create a new forum heading under each vehicle (H1, H2, H3) where we can simply state what the common problem is and just the solutions we have cumulatively come up with. I think this will make our site a lot more user friendly where you can see common problems & fixes without having to wade through lots of pages. Don't get me wrong, the discussion is important to show the different aspects of how the problem may have come up but a simple link to a separate discussion thread could be put in the parent thread to provide that.
 

Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
That one will probably just get long too as everyone expresses their opinion. Then we would still need a link back to the original to cover all the info that started this which is still another one than this one. yeee gads!!!
 

Chook

Well-Known Member
Messages
706
Location
Brisbane (Australia)
That one will probably just get long too as everyone expresses their opinion. Then we would still need a link back to the original to cover all the info that started this which is still another one than this one. yeee gads!!!

I mean one that is modded or locked so that only the possible solutions are in it. Comments use the link to the discussion thread (or the Mod can move them there). That way you get quick answers to each of the problems, if there is no answer then the discussion forum discusses it and you know straight away we haven't found a solution yet.

Since this involves Mod Effort & is a "Value Add" service maybe this could be limited to Mods/Sponsors/Members to help contribute funds to the forum. Sponsor solutions can be sticky at the top of the thread as well.
 
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backcountryislife

Well-Known Member
Messages
858
Location
Dumont, CO
Rather than wade through 20 pages about the issue to find everyone's solutions to problems I am wondering if we can create a new forum heading under each vehicle (H1, H2, H3) where we can simply state what the common problem is and just the solutions we have cumulatively come up with. I think this will make our site a lot more user friendly where you can see common problems & fixes without having to wade through lots of pages. Don't get me wrong, the discussion is important to show the different aspects of how the problem may have come up but a simple link to a separate discussion thread could be put in the parent thread to provide that.


This only relates to the H3, and there are only a couple fixes.

Hunner has his sleeve, and in the past has put flex lines in place of the rigid lines in case it did break, that it would still maintain power steering. He also has added a center mount before.

ATV4speed is making a clamp that will hold the entire circumference of the passenger side of the rack.

My buddy found a place to get flex lines done cheaper, and had made bushings for the driver's side.

you posted the kit from the company near you that replaces rubber with urethane.

Swarttzy is talking about making a girdle to keep the two sides of the rack from separating

That's about it.


In order to understand what each of these may or may not do, you're going to need to read at least SOME of the thread though.

There is no clear "answer" only possible solutions, that may or may not fix the problem, depending on how hard you beat on it. Some folks would say that the hunner sleeve solves the problem, I can't say yes or no, but I wouldn't be without it either!
 
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Chook

Well-Known Member
Messages
706
Location
Brisbane (Australia)
This only relates to the H3, and there are only a couple fixes.....................

I take your point........... Its just that I don't like having to read 20 pages just to see what the solution might be.............. I do like your summary though. Maybe we could post something like your summary as a "Sticky" at the start of the thread ????
 

Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
I think more is better if you know you are someone who wheels hard, for sure.
Sleeve, flex lines, center bracket, maybe poly bushings on the drivers side, and top it off with a brace of some sort. Some of those things are available now and some have been used for years and lots of miles with success.
Take your pick!
I rather enjoy the evolution of all of the above as it unfolds and like to study the input by everyone. Now that more people are involved and got me thinking, while I am doing an all over my H3 update at 50,000 miles and preventative maintenance anyway I am going to revisit the rack project.
Some of this started back in 06 on other early forums and is just now being addressed again.
 

Schwarttzy

Sponsor
Messages
1,390
Location
Rockford IL
So I have been thinking it over and extra long girdle that I proposed in the image seems like a bad idea. I think something similar to Hunner's image.

bkt7891_zpsea5798c4.jpg


BUT I'm think that it should be welded on to the steel section, instead of bracing off the hydraulic fitting. While it is sort of possible to weld aluminum to steel under extreme circumstances, it can't find any viable options currently. So that means I'm forced to use the same bolt hole that the aluminum parts already use. SO I just need to find out how to get some tubing cut and it shouldn't take to long after that.

And then we can put an end to this tread if you get those need slick Polyurethane Bushings with that part, well I guess we need a inexpensive tie-rod upgrade still.
 

Schwarttzy

Sponsor
Messages
1,390
Location
Rockford IL
Wait a minute, Wait a minute. I'm now thinking of creating a compression sleeve for the aluminum side instead of the bolt hole now. Those groves, along with the soft aluminum should provide plenty of grip for you to hold this thing together.
 

Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
ha ha you sort of lost me on that. I think you were meaning that attaching it to the already not too great mounting points might not be a good idea?
I really have not thought the drivers side was that bad. Apparently some people are having a problem with that end, thus the poly bushings.

That drawing I showed was just an example that was suggested not really followed thru with. I too was concerned using the hydraulic fitting and thought I made that clear. I had thought maybe another clamp right there thru bolted to the frame.
Your idea of running all the way to the bracket sounded good to use existing mounting holes but maybe over kill in length?
I just sort of dropped it after I installed the sleeve and center bracket on my 06 and now just the sleeve on the Alpha. I just have not had the time or interest until now since what I have done has worked, at least for me.
I do intend to experiment with something I have in mind but think listening to input from others is the best option.
I don't care how it happens we just should try some added protection against failure.
I work really slow and try to absorb things and sleep on it for added input.
I have some really good techs I have worked with for many years on lots of one of a kind mods for several types of vehicles and always run things by them for a reality check.
 

Chook

Well-Known Member
Messages
706
Location
Brisbane (Australia)
I originally thought my problem was the passenger side. When I went to Ultimate Power Steering he said the passenger side is just a holder, the thrust is taken up by the 2 mounts on the drivers side. He said this has happened over time. First the drivers side would wear, then the passenger side.

I might ask him tomorrow but maybe if the mounts are not addressed the movement becomes so bad that the rack then gets broken?

All I am saying is there could be a natural order to this failure that if the drivers mounts are addressed early, might prevent the other failures.
 
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