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Squeakys spring over...

Portager

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Messages
1,506
Location
Silverado
I may be totally off base here but I feel some rollovers are because of too much flex. The suspension unloads and bam...your on your side

An easy way to visualize stability issues is to consider the imaginary point where a vertical line from the center of gravity (AKA the gravity vector) meets the ground plane. This point has to be inside the footprint of your tires. If the gravity vector is outside the footprint of your tires you roll over. Also, the distance from the gravity vector to the tires determines the degree of stability, it is the righting level arm. If you have a lot of flex, which allows the vehicle to roll, then the CoG is moving closer to the tires on the downhill side. This reduces the roll stability and makes the vehicle more likely to roll. Flex is good for getting tires over boulders but it also degrades stability.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,496
Location
Meridian, ID
Thanks for the info mike!

On my break at work right now...Greg just saw the spring over he has some detailed pics. It's not 100% yet as my brake lines are loose my u bolts aren't cut and my old stock spring hanger isnt trimmed all the way yet. I left some of it on to box the new hanger and my angle grinder was having a tough time cutting the tight to reach places that I want off. A Dremel will do the job as its smaller or I might use my friends new plasma cutter to clean it up. Out of the 6 spring over H3s in the world I assume I'm the only one who used an angle grinder to chop them off. IIRC CJ and bebe used plasma cutters.
 

08SolarFlareH3

Super Swampers
Messages
2,525
Location
Finger Lakes, NY
Chris, have you ever seen the one from Russia? I ran across pics of a SOA rear with a Tuff Country lift out front, on one of the Russian HUMMER forums. Tried looking just now but can't seem to find it. If you haven’t seen it, I will try and find you a link latter.
 

MTUH3

Well-Known Member
Messages
315
Location
Plymouth, MI
Awesome Job!

Question for the you and the others.... Can you go to a Spring Over with just a TB crank in the front? I have to replace the springs in my truck, and what better time to look at changing things. Going to a Rancho lift or other in the front is not in the budget right now.

What do you all say?
 

SC_Hummer_Guy

Mr. Sexy Sugar Britches
Messages
264
Location
North Charleston, SC; Angel Fire, NM
Awesome Job!

Question for the you and the others.... Can you go to a Spring Over with just a TB crank in the front? I have to replace the springs in my truck, and what better time to look at changing things. Going to a Rancho lift or other in the front is not in the budget right now.

What do you all say?

If you wanna have an insane amount of front lean than yes! The amount of lift you get out of a SOA conversion is only matched by a kit lift up front, and possibly a tbar crank after it still to get it back to the factory lean forwards. I believe it would be a 4-5" difference between the two ends.

However I could be way the hell off here.
 

Sierra H3

Well-Known Member
Messages
150
Location
Central Sierras
Thanks for the info mike!

On my break at work right now...Greg just saw the spring over he has some detailed pics. It's not 100% yet as my brake lines are loose my u bolts aren't cut and my old stock spring hanger isnt trimmed all the way yet. I left some of it on to box the new hanger and my angle grinder was having a tough time cutting the tight to reach places that I want off. A Dremel will do the job as its smaller or I might use my friends new plasma cutter to clean it up. Out of the 6 spring over H3s in the world I assume I'm the only one who used an angle grinder to chop them off. IIRC CJ and bebe used plasma cutters.
Sorry I was late on posting the additional pics. Here they are:

DSC02004.jpg

DSC02005.jpg

DSC02006.jpg

DSC02007.jpg

DSC02008.jpg

DSC02009.jpg
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,496
Location
Meridian, ID
Thanks guys! Of course Alex. I was gonna have ruff stuff send about 15 sets of each :Hans:

I've logged around 400 miles on it so far. Had it up to 80mph with no new vibrations. I say new because anything over 70 before the spring over had a slight vibration due to the dented driveshaft. It's totally drivable and smooth. It took a bit to get used to the added height but I feel comfortable now. I did crank my torsions up a bit but I need to check what I am at right now. I don't wanna be anything over a half an inch of what rancho specs are for the front. I still need to just go over some stuff. My new brakelines should be here tomorrow. Then I gotta order my driveshaft from Highangle driveline. From there I can then cycle the suspension and put in some plates for the bumpstops, cut the U bolts and button the rest up. I also still need to trim some more of the stock hanger off. Not sure if my idea was off base but I left a piece on to cradle the new hanger. The old one went over the frame and the new one didn't so that's why I left some on, to cradle the hanger. After that I'll start taking some measurements and invest in some nice quality fox reservoir shocks.
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
Sweet. I'm only about six-weeks ahead of you with my SOA...and ran across many of the same issues. Two-cents...

1. What is that square tube thingy bolted to the frame (2nd photo)?
2. Take the passenger-side e-brake cable loose from the crossmember (4-feet forward), to get some extra length. That side will pull tight at full droop. Instead of re-using those sheet-metal clips, I chose some heavy-duty zip-ties. My thinking was that the zip ties would break loose, rather than ruin the e-brake cable...in the event that I over-extend the rear suspension.
3. When you re-do your brake lines...definitely relocate em under the spring plate, so it doesn't get pinched when the bumpstop lands there (3rd photo).
4. Now that you've rotated the rear axle upward, your weeping ABS sensors will get worse (because now they sit below the fluid line). Go to NAPA...they have a box full of little o-rings and they actually have some that are just a teeny-tiny bit fatter. Take your stock blue o-rings with you so you can get the right ones, along with $1.60. I buttered up the new ones with some grease, and shoved em home. They fit very tight, and they don't leak. I think maybe the stock GM o-rings shrink over time, thus causing the leaks.

Looks very familiar under there. Did you end up moving your axle rearward (using the front holes of the perches)?
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,496
Location
Meridian, ID
#1 that's my slider...those are rocky roads. Another reason why I left part of the stock hanger, the slider would be able to have leverage pinched against a rock without the stock hanger

#2 thanks I will do that...and same with #3

#4 I really appreciate that...I had no clue I thought that was residue from when some leaked out during the install. How about diff fluid? Now that the axle is at an angle do I risk starving components?

Ruff stuff has some badass diff covers that would do the job well, they have higher diff fill holes for rigs with higher pinion angles and they have every axle except for the GM 10 bolt...

I used the center hole which is perfectly lined up with the bumpstop so I don't think the wheelbase changed. If I was to run 37+ I'd move it back but before I jump to a 37 the front end would need some work
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
I think you'll be okay with the fluid issue...there is so much oil flinging around inside the case, that nothing will go dry. Also, don't sweat the fill-plug location...just get it as full as you can on level ground, then go find a real steep hill to top it off. I ended up driving to an abandoned Kroger grocery store. Around behind the store they have a concrete loading dock, that is recessed 4 feet into the slab. The side of it is very steep and makes a perfect RTI ramp (and also real convenient to top off the diff).
 

tfm-Neil

Active Member
Messages
27
Location
Los Angeles
Wow looking goood!!!

Ruff stuff has some badass diff covers that would do the job well, they have higher diff fill holes for rigs with higher pinion angles and they have every axle except for the GM 10 bolt...

Rockcrusher makes a beefy cast diff cover that's undrilled for a fill plug. I measured mine and there's plenty of meat on the upper portion to drill and tap a fill plug or you could always add a bung for one. :)

P5.jpg

What thickness of wheel spacers did you have to use on the front to clear the knuckles?
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,496
Location
Meridian, ID
Came home from work today and had these waiting for me...there red too :thumbs:

E45D4230-436B-4AC3-A266-D04F08E5BA1C-5527-0000032222E6CB70.jpg


I know what I am doing tomorrow morning...
 

Hans3T

Lif"T"ed
Messages
3,035
Location
NC
I'm looking forward to your walk-through on the brake line extensions.

:corn:

Sent using Tapacrack
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,496
Location
Meridian, ID
Update: I still havent done ****. lol School started, family went back east with 2 deaths in the family within 2 weeks, Brakelines arent installed, new driveshaft isnt ordered....Its driveable just not offroadable. I need to button these things up before I test it out.

I got some PM's on the deavers and the tomp lo pro shock mounts. First off, I will not hide anything...The whole reason I went with a spring over was that the deavers were too much of hold up...They hung too low. So anyone interested was fully aware of that. Hans asked first so they were sent out to him. He said rocks werent big out there so he doesnt mind that the springs hang low. So I shipped em out to hans along with the lo profile shock mounts...

MTUH3 sounds like the next guy to be doing this project! Cant wait to see the final product for him.
 
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