Squeakys spring over...

[BW_Hummer H3]

So how more flex will this add? Also I like the duct tape on your boot.

 

[06 H3]

Lol my red wings got destroyed this project and need to go in for repair.

Not sure from what I have seen and heard a good amount. I am not sure how I gain more flex using the same springs but I am sure it has to do with the axle being under the springs and allowing it to travel further from the body

 

[Sierra H3]

Can't wait to read the test drive report!:clap:

 

[speedy]

This will make your head spin for awhile:whaa:

Here's some driveshaft info from one of the best
http://www.highangledriveline.com/tech_corner_for_drivelines.html

And driveline 411 from BellaVista
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-shaft/index.html

 

[06 H3]

Thanks speedy and bebe for the info!

It is now 2 AM and just took it for a test ride. I told myself this morning I wasnt going to sleep until it was done and here we are...another project complete.

So I set my pinion angle at lucky number 13. got the perches welded in, reinstalled the tank and did the axle reassembly process. My first ride was just down the road a mile and back but it felt awesome! SOOO MUCH SMOOTHER then when I was running the deavers. I cant even tell you how happy I am right now. I had no feeling of axle wrap or vibrations but I wasnt up to freeway speeds either I maxed out around 50mph. The driveshaft will need to be lengthened so my options are getting my stock one lengthened or going to highangle driveline like bebe did. Before I wheel I need to get the Dshaft lengthened and longer brakelines. I am concerned a tad about COG. any SOA people out there, do you adjust your wheeling style?

I cant wait to get it out on the trails! What makes me stoked is that this was done in my driveway by me and a few friends who would help for a bit when they had some free time and it was all for under 300 bucks, no high dollar project and it still rides way better then expected and way better then my previous attempts on fixing the rear rancho setup that I have been screwing around with since january. Further testing will documented as time goes by. Feel free to ask questions and I will help any way possible and if your in so cal planning on doing this if I have some free time I can try and help.

O and I need new shocks! I have about 1 1/2 inches of up travel and like 10 down. If I can figure out the max travel I can achieve with the stock springs I will order new shocks, if the amount of travel exceeds the amount of room I have (mounting point to axle) I will look into something like this but for now I will kick back, relax and enjoy my new rig :horns:

http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/projectbuild/131_0811_2000_gmc_sierra_z71_4x4_suspension/photo_13.html

 

[06 H3]

 

[autumn walker]

your truck looks great! congrats on a job well done.

 

[4speedfunk]

Nice. That's how H3's are supposed to "sit". They look better and perform better with a slight rake. The torsion bar front suspension seems highly reactive to any changes you make to the rear suspension, so its a pretty delicate balance between the two. FWIW, I'm running 10" travel Fox rear shocks, (28" extended/18" compressed) and my lower shock mounts are probably 3/4" below the tubes. I figured this was a good compromise between ground clearance and trying to get the longest shock possible. I checked-out the GM competition H3 a few years ago, and it had hoops protruding through the rear floor...another option if you want more travel. Downsouth Motorsports supplied me with the Fox's and also included the correct bar pins for the top mounts. I probably got 4" of shaft exposed at rest, so that translates to a 60/40 droop/compression ratio...seems to work good.

Its tempting to hit the trails but, don't ignore your bump stop issues. The first time you flex it, check not only the distance between the spring-plate and the bump...but also pay close attention to the rear shackles. You want your bumps long enough to keep the shackles from laying completely back and binding the springs. That can do some damage.

Great job!

 

[Portager]

Looks good Chris. Time will tell but it looks like a job very well done.

Remember, always keep a minimum of two wheels in contact with terra firma at all times. Hummers only fly in DARPA land and on

 

[alrock]

Nice job, looks great!

 

[Hunner]

That's not a mall parking lot is it?? lol
Where is that camera you were going to buy?? I know you spent the money on parts?
Now your next assignment is trail photos.

I don't know what the next level above grasshopper is but your at least a couple past that now!!
email me if you need the sleeves.

 

[06 H3]

It's the grocery store parking lot at 2 am I wanted to to go grocery getting in my new and improved grocery getter lol

I just got the iphone and the camera sucks compared to my droid. I will get a real camera and take real pics but before I go wheeling I gotta clean the driveway and garage. It's a mess! Then I need longer brakelines and need to flex out the suspension too

I will send you an email

 

[HUMMER INVESTMENTS]

:corn: :clap: Great job Chris! Can't wait for an offroad report!

 

[speedy]

Then I need longer brakelines and need to flex out the suspension tool

Cut out the middle man and by direct.
http://crownperformance.com/


They don't show up on the website.You need to call

 

[Portager]

The rear driveshaft looks very vulnerable to me which is confirmed by the fact that yours is dented. The stock driveshaft is very thin so it can't take very much abuse. I would recommend replacing the driveshaft with a longer and thicker one that could take more of a beating.

When you extend your brake lines don't forget to extend the anti-lock brake cables.

What did you do about your front driveshaft?

 

[06 H3]

Thanks Rick. you think 5in over stock is good?

I will probably go with high angle driveline Mike, like you said it is very thin walled. 4speed was getting his rear driveshaft lengthened and IIRC the driveline guy was shocked at how thin it was. As for the front driveshaft I am running a double cardian shaft that I bought through 4speedfunk. He had a few made for rancho guys. supposedly the problem wasnt the stock shaft itself but it was the boot. Here is gets rid of the boot and it has a few zerk fittings that you give a few pumps of grease every oil change or before a long offroading weekend and your good to go. I havent had any issues with it yet, its very stout and 4speed was telling me the most common way of destroying them is neglect and letting the grease run dry but even then the rebuild kits are cheap.

Here is a pic of the stock one next to the new front one. The new one looks a tad longer but it is just adjustable in length with the slip joint. After this I will be running custom front and rear shafts...Damn I am start to feel like a frankenstein!

 

[06 H3]

I know some had concerns with weld strength and I plan to address this issue. First I will go to a local shop and have them examine the welds, I already had an experienced welder look into it and said the penetration was there but will also check into a shop looking at them. Then I will do a few local runs and try and beat the **** out of it. If no welds break I will do the ultimate test :huh::emb:

Jump it! lol I know it sounds ridiculously stupid but I wanna beat the **** out of it locally and make sure everything holds up. Then once I do that I will feel pretty damn confident of my welding :hans:

 

[Bigunit]

Thanks Rick. you think 5in over stock is good?

I will probably go with high angle driveline Mike, like you said it is very thin walled. 4speed was getting his rear driveshaft lengthened and IIRC the driveline guy was shocked at how thin it was. As for the front driveshaft I am running a double cardian shaft that I bought through 4speedfunk. He had a few made for rancho guys. supposedly the problem wasnt the stock shaft itself but it was the boot. Here is gets rid of the boot and it has a few zerk fittings that you give a few pumps of grease every oil change or before a long offroading weekend and your good to go. I havent had any issues with it yet, its very stout and 4speed was telling me the most common way of destroying them is neglect and letting the grease run dry but even then the rebuild kits are cheap.

Here is a pic of the stock one next to the new front one. The new one looks a tad longer but it is just adjustable in length with the slip joint. After this I will be running custom front and rear shafts...Damn I am start to feel like a frankenstein!

Some of us already know how you're already an expert with the grease gun and its various known and not so well known uses and applications !

Sorry Chris, but you tee'd that up so perfectly that I couldn't resist that one! LOL!

 

[06 H3]

lol, its A-ok...I guess I can fuel the fire by this picture just for the moab crew.

 

[4speedfunk]

Here's a tip for a cheap rear driveshaft:

Pull your stock shaft and take it to the junkyard. There is absolutely nothing special about it. Find one that is the length you want, (Chevy, Ford, Dodge, Jeep, or whatever) and simply install your output yoke on it. If you can't find one the exact length you need...grab one that's too long. Then take it to the nearest driveline shop, and get it cut down to the length you want. I mention this because there are lots of driveshafts that will work, and its always much easier to shorten, than to lengthen one. Modifying the stock one is especially difficult because of the relatively thin-walled (and odd-sized) metric tubing. Chopping a junkyard shaft will be much more affordable than buying a new custom shaft...(mine was $120 including two new u-joints, a chop, balance, and a purdy paint job). Unlike the front shaft, you're angle is probably not steep enough to require a cardan joint on the rear. A single joint works well on mine.

 

[Portager]

I know some had concerns with weld strength and I plan to address this issue. First I will go to a local shop and have them examine the welds, I already had an experienced welder look into it and said the penetration was there but will also check into a shop looking at them. Then I will do a few local runs and try and beat the **** out of it. If no welds break I will do the ultimate test :huh::emb:

Jump it! lol I know it sounds ridiculously stupid but I wanna beat the **** out of it locally and make sure everything holds up.

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO ... no jumping. Think about the possible up side, a few minutes of grinning, versus the down side, massive repair bills and a reputation you'll never live down.

How many months do you have to go without using AAA before you can get a premier membership?

 

[06 H3]

LOL I think 2 months! I'm almost there!!!

 

[autumn walker]

ya, I wouldn't be jumping the truck if it were me... just use / abuse it as you normally would and if it holds up you're golden.

 

[Hunner]

If you just have to know what it would look like and decide to avoid trying it, it will look something like this.

 

[06 H3]

Look what i found just a little baby