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TAPDH3T SOA Build

SolidusJ

SolidusJ

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,028
Location
FT. Carson, CO
06 H3

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,498
Location
Meridian, ID
****, I dont remember. 4speed might have that info...I still am running the stock driveshaft, its not ideal but its still tugging along. I will replace it eventually lol
 
TAPDH3T

TAPDH3T

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,510
Location
Texarkana, Texas
There's the ubolts I got and worked perfect!!!
amu8ere6.jpg
 
SolidusJ

SolidusJ

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,028
Location
FT. Carson, CO
06 H3 said:
****, I dont remember. 4speed might have that info...I still am running the stock driveshaft, its not ideal but its still tugging along. I will replace it eventually lol
Click to expand...

OK but are you happy with 13 degree pinion gear? Hell with half the crazy stuff you do and it still hasn't fallen out I don't think I have much to worry about.
 
4speedfunk

4speedfunk

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Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
Looks very similar to mine...right down to the bump stop towers. Now that you got it done, it might take some minor tweeking to get things perfect...

Make sure your bump stops bottom-out before your shocks do. You should have a couple inches of exposed shaft on the shocks when the axle is completely bottomed and compressed against the bump stops. This is very important and if you fail to check this...you can blow your brand new shocks apart the first time you compress the suspension. Likewise, you will have a similar situation at full droop. You need to check your brake lines and also your ABS sensor lines to make sure they are longer than your shocks are...at full droop. The shocks will be the limiting factor on your droop, and a high-lift won't get the body high enough to reach full-droop. I used a fork-lift (raised the truck from the rock rails)...but go slow and be careful. Like Recon says, you may be in danger of flipping the truck before the tire leaves the ground! You will be astonished at how far the SOA will droop!. Definitely take the time to check this stuff before you go wheeling.

Lastly...that sway bar is totally going to bind on you. Its fine for just driving around but, you can see that it is sitting well into its range of travel while your truck is at rest. My concern is that when the rear axle reaches full-droop...the end of the sway bar may actually point straight-up and pivot past the angle of the link. Then when you relax the suspension...it bends back in the opposite direction, and destroys your link and shock in the process. You should pull your links off...cut & weld in a piece to make them longer...so the sway bar sits "flat" while at rest. OR...do what many SOA guys do, and remove it entirely.

Overall...it looks pretty good. Now you just gotta get the front end up to match it! Nice job.
 
TAPDH3T

TAPDH3T

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,510
Location
Texarkana, Texas
4speedfunk said:
Looks very similar to mine...right down to the bump stop towers. Now that you got it done, it might take some minor tweeking to get things perfect...

Make sure your bump stops bottom-out before your shocks do. You should have a couple inches of exposed shaft on the shocks when the axle is completely bottomed and compressed against the bump stops. This is very important and if you fail to check this...you can blow your brand new shocks apart the first time you compress the suspension. Likewise, you will have a similar situation at full droop. You need to check your brake lines and also your ABS sensor lines to make sure they are longer than your shocks are...at full droop. The shocks will be the limiting factor on your droop, and a high-lift won't get the body high enough to reach full-droop. I used a fork-lift (raised the truck from the rock rails)...but go slow and be careful. Like Recon says, you may be in danger of flipping the truck before the tire leaves the ground! You will be astonished at how far the SOA will droop!. Definitely take the time to check this stuff before you go wheeling.

Lastly...that sway bar is totally going to bind on you. Its fine for just driving around but, you can see that it is sitting well into its range of travel while your truck is at rest. My concern is that when the rear axle reaches full-droop...the end of the sway bar may actually point straight-up and pivot past the angle of the link. Then when you relax the suspension...it bends back in the opposite direction, and destroys your link and shock in the process. You should pull your links off...cut & weld in a piece to make them longer...so the sway bar sits "flat" while at rest. OR...do what many SOA guys do, and remove it entirely.

Overall...it looks pretty good. Now you just gotta get the front end up to match it! Nice job.
Click to expand...

Thanks man!! I wonder why it looks so similar?? Prolly the 1000 emails I sent lol!!!! U made this happen so thank u!!!
I'm pretty positive I know what ur talking about extending the links but just in case can u shoot a pic... Also I have seen guys with quick disconnects!!! What is ur preference!!!
 
06 H3

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,498
Location
Meridian, ID
looks much better, I got worried when I saw you reused the OEM shock mounts. Now it looks good. Having nothing hanging below the axle tube helps so much when playing out in the rocks.
 
TAPDH3T

TAPDH3T

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,510
Location
Texarkana, Texas
06 H3 said:
looks much better, I got worried when I saw you reused the OEM shock mounts. Now it looks good. Having nothing hanging below the axle tube helps so much when playing out in the rocks.
Click to expand...

The scare huh!!! Hahaha yea it was ugly


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
4speedfunk

4speedfunk

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Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
I currently don't have sway bars...so I can't send you a pic. But if you look at a stock rear sway bar...it sits "flat" under your truck. The stock links are made to the proper length so the bar sits flat when the truck is at rest (in the middle of the suspension's cycle). Now that you've raised the truck approx. 6"...those links are now 6" too short. The result is your sway bar is already approaching its maximum angle at while you are sitting on level ground. It won't take much droop for it to run out of room, and it could bind-up and break something.

I don't get the whole disconnect thang. IMO...either run sway bars or don't. If you know you're going to be doing some hardcore wheeling...take em off before you leave home. I know a few Jeep guys that run discos, and it always seems they are a hassle to connect & disconnect. I plan to add some sway bars to my rig this summer...its a tad spooky at high speeds. Unless I find them really limiting the travel...I will probably leave them on all the time. I have no plans to run discos...a properly designed sway bar will work good on and off road. Keep in mind I'm solid axle, and its hard to compare apples to apples since I'm so much different from the stock IFS. Regardless...I am all for sway bars (I just haven't had the time to fiddle with making my own).

In your situation...I think you can restore the stock rear sway bar position by simply lengthening your links (I need to do the same thing). You might poke around on some parts websites to see if such a critter already exists. I found these for stock H3's but, it may be possible to find some longer ones if you knew what application to look for....

http://www.carid.com/2006-hummer-h3-suspension-parts/mevotech-sway-bar-component-19265475.html
http://www.carid.com/2006-hummer-h3-suspension-parts/moog-sway-bar-link-21685338.html

If you do end up finding some that fit...turn me on. I will need the same ones for my H3.
 
06 H3

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,498
Location
Meridian, ID
The sway bar a T has is supposed to sit that way due to the spare tire that sits under there. He can still benefit from longer links though. I have discos but I run disconnected all the time. Unless I am driving 70 on the freeway with camping gear on my rack I am unconnected.
 
TAPDH3T

TAPDH3T

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,510
Location
Texarkana, Texas
4speedfunk said:
Didn't somebody on here have theirs bolted on upside down? It was rubbing a hole in the diff cover!
Click to expand...

Ha yea me!!! The guy in Austin that installed my lift put it on backwards and I didn't notice until I took it offroad and it felt like I was riding on a brick.. He was also they guy who had my torsion bar and keys in wrong... What can I say.. Chevy mechanics lol
 
SolidusJ

SolidusJ

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Messages
2,028
Location
FT. Carson, CO
So is it a must to cut off the front leaf hangers? I mean I got my hunner skids on them and I really don't mind them
 
Last edited:
06 H3

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,498
Location
Meridian, ID
SolidusJ said:
So is it a must to cut off the front leaf hangers? I mean I got my hunner skids on them and I really don't mind them
Click to expand...

TAPDH3T said:
I haven't cut mine yet I am working on something I will let u know tomorrow what I come up with
Click to expand...

I cut mine off, so did bebe and 4speed. I did it because they did and recommended it. When I talked with 4speed he did it to reduce lift, I did it to reduce lift and later on I found out my #1 reason...clearance. Those hangers kill us out west when playing in the rocks, they were always my hang up so by chopping them off I gained 5.5in of clearance at the hanger. They are a non issue now. I would do it to reduce lift, it may be tough to get rid of the rake with stock hangers. right now I am perfectly level. Tapd3t has a rake in the pics but I dont know how much torsion bar cranking you can do for it. Either way if you plan to stay with 33s I would reduce the lift as much as possible. cut off the hangers. Option 2 would redrill a hole in the hanger further up and cut off the lower portion but you would be the guinea pig on that.
 
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