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The Definitive FRONT Sway-bar Disconnect Answer

Steve #1

Well-Known Member
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534
Location
TEXAS
I know it's been asked but never fully answered that I can find. For a stock H3 W/ slight t-bar crank what is the proper spec to shop for for front sway-bar disconnects? vehicle model/lift etc. Are two disconnects needed on the front?
 

RamRod

Well-Known Member
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3,914
Location
AB, Canada
Removed because my answer didn't give the OP the response on a silver platter like he wanted


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Last edited:

Steve #1

Well-Known Member
Messages
534
Location
TEXAS
This may come off as rude but it is not my intent. I'm not looking for opinions, just proper fitment in a thread where it is easy to find. There are other threads full of opinions on this topic
 

05Mudiak

Well-Known Member
Messages
731
Location
Lake Charles, LA
well if you can't find the answer just measure them yourself and find ones that work then make a post stating your findings. BTW your second question in your post leaves it open for opinions.
 

Steve #1

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Messages
534
Location
TEXAS
derian06, I'm going to be cutting the bolt on one of the end links that is on it now because the nut is jammed and the hex key is rounded out. Removing them is not always a 5 minute job.

Thanks RamRod, it has made it difficult to find the answer to which, if any, disconnects work on the front for the H3 because every other time I can find that it has been brought up the thread goes off topic or the answers are just unclear.

05Mudiak: Measuring the stock one is simple but finding measurements for the disconnects is not so easy. I thought the knowledge could already be out there and if so it could be put in a thread where it would be easy to find from a search. If I figure out the answer I will be sure to leave it here.
BTW : Empirical data for that second question would be more useful than opinions.
 

05Mudiak

Well-Known Member
Messages
731
Location
Lake Charles, LA
I do have a question. have you been in a situation where you were like damn I need more flex in the front? I know with our 4" lift (never been wheeling when it was stock) I get full droop with the opposite tire full up, with the amount of droop we get honestly its scary I need limiting straps. There is a need in the rear no doubt but up front at least with the lift there is not a situation where we been where I was like man I need front discons. The IFS w/ 4" of travel is the reason once we go SAS we will have discons but for now I don't see the need with how little the front suspension travel is. Its probably the reason there is not much info on it.
 

ABNTROOP

HIPPO
Messages
1,985
Location
Vancouver, Wa
dunce.jpg
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oh F that, that's cute that you've got Alrocks quote in your sig. That being said, how, exactly, did you imagine anyone would race to answer your question when you deliberately come off like a tool? You don't lure flies with vinegar bro..
 

05Mudiak

Well-Known Member
Messages
731
Location
Lake Charles, LA
I'm running a 4" rancho and 1" body and a 2" SOA but havent wheeled with the SOA yet.


be careful with the 4 lift I don't know if you noticed. At full droop it puts the axels at max flex almost in a bind. without limiting straps. I have the Tuff Country spindles not sure if axle placement between the two lifts are different.
 

Steve #1

Well-Known Member
Messages
534
Location
TEXAS
I do have a question. have you been in a situation where you were like damn I need more flex in the front? I know with our 4" lift (never been wheeling when it was stock) I get full droop with the opposite tire full up, with the amount of droop we get honestly its scary I need limiting straps. There is a need in the rear no doubt but up front at least with the lift there is not a situation where we been where I was like man I need front discons. The IFS w/ 4" of travel is the reason once we go SAS we will have discons but for now I don't see the need with how little the front suspension travel is. Its probably the reason there is not much info on it.

Yes, any time a front tire isn't on the ground I'm like "damn I need more flex." I also don't want the tire that's on the ground being pulled up by the one that is off or just barely on the ground. The more significant reason I'm interested at this point in time is because I have one sway bar end that must be replaced and I'm replacing a lot of the other front end bits so I can just replace them both. I also Have a $100 gift card for 4 Wheel Parts that expires in 6 weeks so it would be less out of my pocket to get disconnects from them verses replacement sway bar ends somewhere else.


dunce.jpg
..............

oh F that, that's cute that you've got Alrocks quote in your sig. That being said, how, exactly, did you imagine anyone would race to answer your question when you deliberately come off like a tool? You don't lure flies with vinegar bro..

Yes I've had that quote from Alex in my signature since the very early days of this forum and this seems to be a place where it is fitting. I'm not quite sure where I deliberately came off as a tool. Was it when I said "This may come off as rude but it is not my intent." BTW, it takes lot more than people on a forum not liking something I've said to get me butt-hurt.

Can one of the forum moderators please change the title of this thread to "Another Thread Where the Front Swaybar Disconnect Question Isn't Resolved" It seems much more appropriate at this point.
 

05Mudiak

Well-Known Member
Messages
731
Location
Lake Charles, LA
I am very curious because I don't know. we lifted ours within the first month of owning it. With the factory suspension with how little travel they have stock How much do you actually gain with it disconnected?
 

RamRod

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,914
Location
AB, Canada
In stock form I would think the only time having disconnects that actually "worked" would be if you also had shocks with more travel.

OEM shocks I believe only have 2.3" of travel... I am sure the swaybar allows for all 2.3"


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05Mudiak

Well-Known Member
Messages
731
Location
Lake Charles, LA
In stock form I would think the only time having disconnects that actually "worked" would be if you also had shocks with more travel.

OEM shocks I believe only have 2.3" of travel... I am sure the swaybar allows for all 2.3"


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That's exactly what I was thinking but was unsure.
 
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