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torsion bar install help

digglesworth

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,789
Location
illinois
never done any work on torsion bars so im just trying to get a little info before i start replacing mine with alpha bars. once i jack the truck up and pull the tires, do i just unscrew the adjuster bolt all the way till it comes out and note the degree at which the key is facing on the end of the bar? is anything under serious load that i should stay away from certain procedures to avoid injury?
as for reinstallation... ive seen videos where guys will use c-clamps to help squeeze the key back down and start the bolt back in? do we have to do something like that as well? guess ill find out for sure in the next day or so but some helpful hints would be greatly appreciated...
 

Bigunit

Hammer Down!
Staff member
Messages
6,558
Location
Arizona
Unload the suspension by supporting the LCAs. Nothing under serious load to risk injury. When we did mine and when I helped JR3T do his in Moab a few years ago, we didn't use C clamps on the keys. I can copy and email you the instructions from the factory manual if you want me to.
 

Bigunit

Hammer Down!
Staff member
Messages
6,558
Location
Arizona
The keys will only fit one way - drivers side about 11 o'clock/Passenger side 1 o'clock looking at them from behind the cross member. 27mm and a impact gun makes it a lot easier. Take the T-bar bolt out completely. Don't lose the special pivot nuts that sit on top and bottom of the keys. You maybe able to get the key off the old T-bar when it's still up in there but if not don't worry. Tap and pull the T-bars back out of its socket in the LCA and then drop the front of the T-bar past the LCA and pull them towards the front of the vehicle. Reinstall the new ones. Measure both sides in the front to get your proper ride height and your done.
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,232
Location
Tardville
MARK THE BARS RH & LH, AND ALSO F & R! These can be installed backwards (front to rear) and on opposite sides (right to left)...this happens often and if you reassemble them wrong, you cannot get the ride height adjusted properly.

Also...I never use an impact on t-bars. The rotation speed can heat up the threads and seize them into the nut (galling). If that happens...its torch-time (been there). GM installs the bolts dry (duh), and given their location under the truck...they get a lot of mud, sand, water, and such caked all over them. Its a good idea to clean the bolts before you attempt to un-thread them. A wire wheel on a drill and a liberal soaking with WD-40 will prevent the bolt from getting jammed-up, and it makes un-threading them much easier. If you feel the torque resistance increasing as you loosen the bolts...STOP. Let them cool down, and apply more WD-40 and work the bolt back & forth a few times. This is why I do them by hand...so you can "feel" the fastener starting to seize and stop before you destroy something. C-clamps also help...they take the strain off the threads. The threads are designed to "hold" the proper ride-height....not to "pull" the vehicle into proper ride-height. There is a specific tool called a Torsion Bar Clamp that you can use but its really nothing more than a C-clamp. Its not mandatory but, it does help by removing all the load off the threads while you are turning the bolts.

When you re-assemble them, put a glob of grease on the threads. This will keep the bolts cool during the tightening and prevent galling. Also put another glob in the cradles...to keep the creaks and groans to minimum when you flex the suspension. I find that its more accurate to make your final height adjustment from the high-side down. So I over-crank to say 24"...then I flex & bounce the suspension...then un-thread the bolts to arrive at the desired height. Flex & bounce again...then re-measure...then call it a day. I shoot for +/- 1/4" side-to-side...anything smaller than that and you end up chasing your tail. The H3 is very weight sensitive. Fuel, tools, or fat-girlfriends, etc....all effect the ride-height. It will magically change every time you check it...so don't be too concerned if you cannot get it closer than 1/4".
 

rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,761
Location
Bellflower, CA
Are the bars marked front/rear? I just got my Alpha replacements a few days ago and will be installing mine when the lower ball joints get in.
 

digglesworth

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,789
Location
illinois
thanks cj. rascole, my new bars are marked left and right and have arrows marking rotation. you should be able to tell left and right by the part numbers... maybe.
 

digglesworth

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,789
Location
illinois
Has anyone that put in alpha bars in an I5 noticed the keys don't need to be tightened as much to achieve the desired ride height? I put my ranch kit in and new alpha t-bars. I put the t-bar in the control arm side and then put the key back on the other end. The keys were around 10:00 and 2:00 on either side. I stuck thebolt up through and got the curved nut started. I tightened them til I had about 1/2" of thread above the nut. The key didn't rotate down much at all. There still around 10 and 2. My ride height is close but it doesn't leave a lot of room to lower the ride height. I tried rotating the key but that didn't work. I've got the truck up on stands under the lower control arms so I'll see what happens when I put the wheels on tomorrow and bounce it around a little bit.
 

rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,761
Location
Bellflower, CA
They are stiffer that the I5 and I'm sure that being new they will settle in after a few hundred miles. When I replaced the bars on my 95 I still had to make a small adjustment after 500 miles.
 

digglesworth

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,789
Location
illinois
After I got the tires on and sat it back down, it settled a little better. Had to raise the truck up about an inch or so on both sides. Should be go to go now. I'm feeling a little better about them now.
 
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