Torsion leveling

[cgalpha08]

Alright so i know that just about all of you have done this simple and easy mod, i just have a couple of questions before i actually do it.

1) lifting the front obviously increases angles in the cv joints and tie rods, and other parts, has anyone had any trouble with this at all after leveling?

2) im assuming that cranking the torsion bars puts more stress on the torsion bars, isnt this bad for them?

Thanks for answering a noobs questions.

 

[DAGKANA]

I have had lots of issues when leveled too far in height... CV boots are usually the first to go... however the torsion bars have never been an issue even with the extra weight they are handling from the winch bumper assembly... you could always get alpha torsion bars which are already designed to handle the additional weight of the V8 motor... The biggest concern you should have would be the weight of larger tires if you go to 35s

 

[bebe]

Well, if you crank them beyond the 23.75", your ride will suck. Technically they can be effectively turned to 24.25".

You can use the Alpha bars or you can use the Sway-a-way HD bars. When Jeff put mine on in Moab last April - he asked me why I had been holding out on the SAW Bars, he thought they were awesome (he has the Alpha H3T) he said the ride felt so much more stable.

I never had an issue with my CV's or the boots, or the 35's. I had 72,000 miles on that set up. With some pretty hard wheelin.

And I forgot to say I ran mine at 23.5

 

[cgalpha08]

Thanks for the info...really helpful

 

[alrock]

As you crank up the torsion bars you put a lot of extra stress on the steering rack and tie rods. When too high, like at 24", and the truck hits a bump, the tie rods tend to jam upwards against the rack vs. pivoting. I think I had excessive wear on my rack within 20K miles. I sit at 23.25" now.

 

[f5moab]

I'm at about 23.5 and never had any problems in the past 40K, yet. Still the same shafts, tie rods, steering gear. I only do malls though.:shame:

 

[3Hummers]

I am at about 23.25" with 35" tires and have had no issues at all.

 

[theBroken]

The one recurring issue that I have from it is the carrier seals ware out faster.

 

[M22KLARS]

I'm also at 23.5 with zero issues on my boots or anything else.

 

[DJinCO]

I'm at about 23.5 and never had any problems in the past 40K, yet. Still the same shafts, tie rods, steering gear. I only do malls though.:shame:

I'm with Doug. I usually only drive over curbs and the occasional Prius.

 

[MTUH3]

30K since my lift. i am closer to 24, Maint to the front end:
Replaced both Half shafts (one cut boot and figured I would do some PM and replace both, now I have two spares
Leaky axle seal, but this has been a problem since day one
In the process of replacing hubs, all tie rods and ball joints are OK. I would not consider most of the work too far outside the "normal" wear range

 

[f5moab]

And diff axle seals are a bad gauge to determine problems with a TC. They are notorious to leak, even straight from the factory. And if a shaft is ever replaced, and the tech (or you) do not use the plastic seal protector tool, the insertion of the shaft can put a small cut on the seal, and that cut will eventually turn into a small leak.

 

[bebe]

Mine never leaked - they just exploded LOL

 

[f5moab]

Mine never leaked - they just exploded LOL

Bet they leaked after the explosion.:giggle:

 

[HUMMERADDICT]

How about a crank to 22.75? Would I need any other adjustments with only .75" crank?

 

[alrock]

No other adjustments would be necessary other than taking it for an alignment.

 

[LagunaH1]

As you crank up the torsion bars you put a lot of extra stress on the steering rack and tie rods. When too high, like at 24", and the truck hits a bump, the tie rods tend to jam upwards against the rack vs. pivoting. I think I had excessive wear on my rack within 20K miles. I sit at 23.25" now.

I had a very similar experience with my '08 Alpha. I got a new steering rack, a new upper A arm and new lower A arm bushings in the passenger side

 

[algin5109]

How bout this, I cranked mine to 23.75 and a week later installed extended shocks and new +1/2" bumps tops and the truck sat 1/2" higher. Been driving like that for a month now hoping it will settle and nothing. Guess I gotta lower it now.

 

[delta88]

I would suggest lifting the front-end up when you crank the tbars, as it makes it a little easier turning the bolts. Make sure you drive around for a bit and measure each side, adjust and repeat. You could go through a half a tank of gas before you get them where they need to be. I would wait a day or two before getting the alignment just so they have had time to settle in. The biggest difference I noticed after cranking tbars is you can actually see stop lights without bending your neck to the side and a little more wind resistance / noise on the highway.