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Traction Failed, Service Stabilitrac...but no CEL, no codes?
- Thread starter 650Hawk
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4speedfunk
Well-Known Member
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- 4,250
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- Tardville
Probably a wheel speed sensor. It could also possibly be your steering wheel is not properly centered (alignment).
High Five H2
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- 1,627
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- West Texas
upper part of your hub on the inside. you'll see a wire that has a bracket bolted to the upper A arm. There's one for the brakes and one for the wheel speed sensor. The wheel speed sensor is the one that ins't connected to the caliper. It's right at 12 o'clock on the inside of the hub.
(if I remember correctly)
(if I remember correctly)
4speedfunk
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- 4,250
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- Tardville
The rear sensors bolt directly to the axle tubes about 6" in from the backing plates.
MTUH3
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- 315
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- Plymouth, MI
mine does that too. Usually a bad from hub / wheel bearing assembly, or the rear sensor. I think mine is the rear sensor as I had one get stuck in the axle tub, and it might have damaged the ring inside. Mine is a daily occurrence, usually only happening on long right hand turns, but will pop up randomly sometimes too. Goes away usually after stopping at a light or in traffic for a period of time, or after I turn the truck off.
I also head it have be the accelerator under the driver seat (IIRC) can through the codes too. You need a fairly advanced code reader to pin point which sensor / part is causing the issue. I don't think you standard auto parts store can pull that information
I also head it have be the accelerator under the driver seat (IIRC) can through the codes too. You need a fairly advanced code reader to pin point which sensor / part is causing the issue. I don't think you standard auto parts store can pull that information
Thanks, guys. I'll take a look under it this weekend and see if anything obvious jumps out at me (loose or torn wiring, etc.). It is not intermittent at all; has remained since it cropped up. Any downsides to driving it with the Stabilitrac/Traction system turned off? In other words, will I be doing any further damage to something else until I get it fixed?
It looks like I can get rear sensors for about $50, fronts for about $85 online. The problem would be determining exactly which one is bad (assuming that's the problem). Might need to take it in to the dealer for a diagnosis ($95). Once replaced, is there a reset or programming that needs to occur?
It looks like I can get rear sensors for about $50, fronts for about $85 online. The problem would be determining exactly which one is bad (assuming that's the problem). Might need to take it in to the dealer for a diagnosis ($95). Once replaced, is there a reset or programming that needs to occur?
S
SedonaBound
Guest
Have you checked the battery connections? Or the charge level? I used to get the Stabilitrak warning frequently because we didn't drive the H3T enough to keep the teensy battery at full charge. Haven't had it happen since I got a battery tender.
4speedfunk
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- 4,250
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- Tardville
I can't say for sure but I've heard the sensors are individually traceable via a scan tool. So...if you have the right diagnostic tool, it should be able to tell you which corner is failing.
08H3
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- United States
Yes, they are, at least with mine. Can't remember the model but it's one of the higher end Innovas.
Yeah, I've only got a cheap scan tool, so...
I DO still have the OEM battery clamps; have new ones sitting on the workbench, that's likely the first thing I'll do Saturday morning is finally break down and install them. Battery condition/charge is good, it gets driven nearly every day.
I DO still have the OEM battery clamps; have new ones sitting on the workbench, that's likely the first thing I'll do Saturday morning is finally break down and install them. Battery condition/charge is good, it gets driven nearly every day.
Solved!
Believe it or not, the Traction Failed/Service Stabilitrac message, AND a non functioning cruise control (noticed later) was all due to nothing more than a blown brake light fuse.
I noticed that I had no brake lights, and after replacing (and immediately blowing) the fuse, I started looking deeper. I had recently fabricated a new center mount LED brake light, and found that the splice had come untaped and shorted out, blowing the fuse. Fixed the splice, replaced the fuse, and guess what? No more Traction Failed/Service Stabilitrac message, and Cruise Control works again!
Believe it or not, the Traction Failed/Service Stabilitrac message, AND a non functioning cruise control (noticed later) was all due to nothing more than a blown brake light fuse.
I noticed that I had no brake lights, and after replacing (and immediately blowing) the fuse, I started looking deeper. I had recently fabricated a new center mount LED brake light, and found that the splice had come untaped and shorted out, blowing the fuse. Fixed the splice, replaced the fuse, and guess what? No more Traction Failed/Service Stabilitrac message, and Cruise Control works again!
JPaul
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- 2,436
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- Way up north, UT
Did you use regular electrical tape? I strongly suggest only ever using heatshrink on electrical splices (I started strictly using the bare ferrules (or soldering) and heatshrink a few years ago, rather than the ones with the red, blue, or yellow plastic over them). And if it's exposed get some liquid tape and coat the splice with it first then put the heatshrink over and shrink it down (then it's completely weather tight). An alternative to heatshrink if you can't manage it because of the splice is to get what's called splicing tape, Lowes has a couple versions from 3M, one is pretty pricey at $10 a roll, and is super thick. The other is a bit cheaper and thinner (I haven't tried that one yet, I have the more expensive stuff to use with my antenna connectors for Ham radio). Both will relatively instantly vulcanize and permanently bond to itself.
Another option is to get some of the fabric tape like the OEM's use for binding together wiring harnesses, I think it's called friction tape. You can get a roll at Lowes for a few bucks. They also have non-adhesive vinyl wrapping tape. Really, anything you need for proper splicing (or wiring harness binding) can be had at Lowes, they have a good enough selection of tapes for this stuff, and I believe you can get heatshrink there as well, but I get my heatshrink from a local dedicated electronics shop.
Regular electrical tape, even the really good 3M stuff, isn't super reliable, especially in temperature extremes. It doesn't like to stick to itself, since honestly it's not really designed to, as there is no liner for the adhesive when it's on the roll. I think the adhesive is more to kind of help with creating a moisture barrier, but even then it's not very good at it.
Honestly the only thing I use electrical tape for these days is at work to bind up the stacks of backup tapes before putting them into the carrier to be sent up to the vault in the mountain. I haven't bought any myself in probably a decade.
So to recap, crimp or solder and use heatshrink for the best splice, or if you can't use heatshrink use some self-vulcanizing rubber splicing tape. Or the fabric adhesive friction tape, though that is better suited for wiring harness binding (when you don't want the bulk of split loom). There is also non-adhesive vinyl wrapping tape, but again, that is best for binding wiring harnesses.
Another option is to get some of the fabric tape like the OEM's use for binding together wiring harnesses, I think it's called friction tape. You can get a roll at Lowes for a few bucks. They also have non-adhesive vinyl wrapping tape. Really, anything you need for proper splicing (or wiring harness binding) can be had at Lowes, they have a good enough selection of tapes for this stuff, and I believe you can get heatshrink there as well, but I get my heatshrink from a local dedicated electronics shop.
Regular electrical tape, even the really good 3M stuff, isn't super reliable, especially in temperature extremes. It doesn't like to stick to itself, since honestly it's not really designed to, as there is no liner for the adhesive when it's on the roll. I think the adhesive is more to kind of help with creating a moisture barrier, but even then it's not very good at it.
Honestly the only thing I use electrical tape for these days is at work to bind up the stacks of backup tapes before putting them into the carrier to be sent up to the vault in the mountain. I haven't bought any myself in probably a decade.
So to recap, crimp or solder and use heatshrink for the best splice, or if you can't use heatshrink use some self-vulcanizing rubber splicing tape. Or the fabric adhesive friction tape, though that is better suited for wiring harness binding (when you don't want the bulk of split loom). There is also non-adhesive vinyl wrapping tape, but again, that is best for binding wiring harnesses.