H3 Transfer Case Control Module

[USMC_TOP]

Brand new t case from GM $ 1,706.35 or make the guy that rebuilt it fix it correctly

 

[tslevin95]

Brand new t case from GM $ 1,706.35 or make the guy that rebuilt it fix it correctly

Got a refund from the mechanic and purchased a new one from GM. It needed to be replaced in the first place anyway. Had an honest shop swap it out for $160 and it's doing well.

Now, working on fixing a rough idle/vibration which seems to be the motor mounts. I attached pictures of the cracked rubber on one of the mounts.

 

[USMC_TOP]

Was it the mounts?


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[tslevin95]

Was it the mounts?


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So replacing the mounts did improve the idling, but it is still not 100%. More often it is better, but at some times and after driving a bit, there is still a noticeable rough idle/vibration. I feel it mostly in the steering wheel.

Also, something new happening is that on start up, this is pretty difficult to explain, it kind of shimmys or wobbles (left to right motion). It lasts for a second or two and goes away.

 

[USMC_TOP]

The I5 is not a smooth running engine at idle. I get what you have from time to time. Seems it likes Shell gas the best for me.


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[tslevin95]

The I5 is not a smooth running engine at idle. I get what you have from time to time. Seems it likes Shell gas the best for me.


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I've been using Exxon for the past few months, but I will fill up with Shell next. Thanks USMC

 

[USMC_TOP]

Np


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[Kyle]

Try running a couple bottles of fuel system cleaner through it too, idk how many miles you have, but I run a few bottles through mine whenever I remember and it helps clean out carbon


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[NorseVikinAEsir]

WAIT! Yes the TCCM is a separate device. It's basically a 'dumb' little motor driver which also lights up your dash lights. It doesn't seem to have much feedback beyond the buttons above your radio, the shifter knob position, and the transfer case motor actuator unit.
Why do you want one? Do you want one? I have an extra one in working order because I thought mine was bad. I could send it your way, in exchange for money. ($30 plus shipping? I don't really care actually) Turns out I had a different problem that I solved instead.
Is there a problem with your transfer case shifting? I've just come out of a deep-dive with this system so I'm feeling like I know it pretty well.

What noises is it making? You can listen with the engine off.
Here's how;
With the ignition in the ON position and the shifter in park you may shift between 4HI and 4LOCK.
With the ignition in the ON position and the shifter in NEUTRAL you may shift between 4HI, 4LOCK, and 4LOW.

Starting in 4HI you press the button to shift to 4LOCK, then the 4LOCK light will blink and the transfer case shifter motor will make a knocking or pulsing sound when rotating to "bump" the transfer case into 4LOCK.
If you're in 4LOCK and press the button to shift to 4HI, then the 4HI light will blink and the transfer case shifter motor will make a smooth rotational movement to shift the transfer case back into 4HI.
The transfer case shifting motor will make a smooth sound to shift into 4LO from either gear I believe, but I needed the vehicle in neutral. Otherwise the light would blink and nothing would actually happen.

You can remove the shifter motor without draining any transfer case fluid, there is a seal which prevents anything from leaking.
You can then mark its position, likely 4HI, with a sharpie or a scratch awl to keep a record where it started.
Then, you can watch it "shift" while hanging off of bottom of the vehicle. You can also test if it is rotating by touching the motor leads to a 12v jump battery and watching it turn in each direction.

Also, a simple fix might be fiddling with and jostling the shifting buttons on the dash. I hear they like to get stuck, which causes the module to throw an error up on your dash display. Once unstuck they fix themselves.

To answer your question directly though, the part numbers are as follows;
GM 24236866 is the "MODULE. Transfer Case Shift Control" which I found used on ebay for $50, and lives behind your glove box. The cover is the rounded shaped thing that is the right cover of the dash board, unacessable once the door is closed. You remove it by first removing the couple snaps on the front of it (push in the center bit, then pry them straight up and out), then popping it out the side. It's got the same snaps as the radio bezel and a bit of pressure will release it.
Here's a diagram from the manuals that Schwarttzy posted http://schwarttzy.com/h3-hummer/ open up the manual for Hummer H3 – Transfer Case, and the TCCM is shown on page 4.
If your motor is bad, like mine was, the part number is GM 89059688, but I bought the Dorman 600-908 aftermarket replacement part, BUT be careful because the motor power leads were swapped on mine so clockwise was counter-clockwise and visa-versa which was the real headache in the whole thing for me. Once I figured that out I swapped them and it worked like a charm!

So, what is really wrong? Tell us all about it, hopefully it's an easy fix!

Do you still have that TCCM kicking around?

 

[TryinSomething]

Hello,

This is a question is regarding testing the shift motor and shifting module for the transfer case. Previously mentioned that you had a working module and motor and when the motor was disconnected from the case you could watch the motor shift to the different positions and how the 4HI lock would “bump” to position and the 4LO lock had to be in neutral and would be smooth instead of bump. My question stems from this. I’m currently doing repair on a 2006. Have replaced the shift fork and the case shifts smoothly by hand to each position. The buttons on the dash all light and blink etc so I’m thinking the dash panel works. The shift motor rotates and has 12v power. The shift module appeared to have water damage with staining on it (had previous sunroof leaks into this panel area) so I replaced the shift module with a “working good” one from eBay. So recap: new metal shift fork, replaced shift module, have a new shift motor (although it does same as old shift motor so I have both), case shifts smoothly by hand. Question: When operating the shift motor while detached from the case and observing the shift to the desired positions, is the motor supposed to also stop and hold at those positions once arriving while the light on the dash stays on? I’ve not found an answer to that directly and videos are of no help because they all address faulty motors. I have new and old motor and both do the same so I do not think it’s a motor thing. Motor “bumps” over to 4Hi lock spot and rotates smoothly back to default 4Hi unlock and then rotates smooth over to 4Lo lock spot and smooth back. My trouble seems to be the motor and module communicate to shift over to 4Hi lock but immediately once arriving try to return to default spot and put SERV 4wd on the dash. I turn vehicle off and restart and it’s back to default mode no warnings. Press 4lo lock and it rotates over to spot and holds for 10 seconds maybe and then returns to default and puts SERV 4wd on dash. I do not know for sure if the motor should be holding or if the returning to default is normal operation when not connected to case. I DO think it should stop and hold and light should stay steady and then wait til another button is pressed to go to another spot. I don’t think we are holding the button for any length of time but just pressing and releasing while in neutral. Initially before doing anything you would hear motor try to rotate with much clunking and then SERV 4wd lights on. Took case apart and the shift fork was way stretched out. Replaced with metal fork and checked other items in case repaired as needed and put back together. First outing clicked 4LO lock while in neutral and it shifted the case to 4Lo lock and then I believe it tried to return to default position and bound up on itself and threw the SERV 4wd message up. Had to at that point take case back apart to make sure nothing messed up which it was fine and we got back to default setting. I’m not entirely sure what the motor should be doing though. Seems the buttons are telling module to rotate, module is sending motor data, motor is rotating, then something is not happening to tell it to stop at desired point. Wheel speed sensor? Shift module still no good? Any insight is helpful. Thanks. New member specifically for this question.