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Undercarriage question

Cajun_Tiger_Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
428
Location
Lafayette, La
Depends on what your plans are for your rig.

If you plan on doing a lot of rock crawling, get the steel. Being that I live in Louisiana I do a good bit of mudding. If that would be your case as well get the aluminum.
 

Halcyon00

Well-Known Member
Messages
46
Cool thank you. Just seemed better protection than the open one


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3Hummers

Super Moderator
Staff member
Messages
10,529
Location
Central Texas
Not a fan of the solid protection. They do retain heat, hold mud and rocks and block access. I had a friend lose his H1 because of his solid UCP. He had a hose to his Tcase split and the ATF sprayed out onto his exhaust pipe. He used up his two fire extinguishers trying to put out the fire but didn't have good enough access to put out the fire. He had to disconnect his trailer and push it away to save it while he watched his truck burn.
 

Cajun_Tiger_Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
428
Location
Lafayette, La
Not a fan of the solid protection. They do retain heat, hold mud and rocks and block access. I had a friend lose his H1 because of his solid UCP. He had a hose to his Tcase split and the ATF sprayed out onto his exhaust pipe. He used up his two fire extinguishers trying to put out the fire but didn't have good enough access to put out the fire. He had to disconnect his trailer and push it away to save it while he watched his truck burn.

Damn, that sucks.
 

Halcyon00

Well-Known Member
Messages
46
That does suck lol. That's why I asked! No wonder preadator won't carry them


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Bananatank

Well-Known Member
Messages
731
Location
Hammond,la
Depends on what your plans are for your rig.

If you plan on doing a lot of rock crawling, get the steel. Being that I live in Louisiana I do a good bit of mudding. If that would be your case as well get the aluminum.

Where do you go mudding in your vehicle? Not much around my area besides a few powerlines with mud.


06 yellow h3 called "bananatank",
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
aluminum is 30% the weight and 50% the strength of steel (this varies greatly by type, the harder the aluminum the more strength, but the less it's able to be worked/bent/shaped) Thus, if you want the strength of 1/8" steel, you'd get 1/4" plate aluminum, and it'd weigh 60% of steel... if you can get away with 7071 (any 7 series, actually), then you can decrease to 3/16" aluminum for the same strength.

heat - most race cars run full belly pans and have no problem with overheating. Most SCORE and trophy trucks have full underbody armor. Most BMWs and VWs have full belly pans and don't over heat. In addition to the benefit of protection, you'll also get better mpg because the air will flow under your car easier.

Fire extinguishers - if you still use powder, you really need to change now to either liquid or foam. Years ago, I stopped to help a lady whose s-10 blazer was burning with an electrical fire. I used a 10# fire extinguisher and would knock the fire down, wait a bit, knock it down... did so for 7 minutes. The fire department got there in 12 minutes... the car was a total loss because there just wasn't enough powder to keep knocking the fire down until a truck with water could cool the vehicle enough to end re-ignition. In the recent year, there's been at least 2 companies that use the same tech as Range Guard fire systems to put out fires. They work on two principles: 1) the liquid coats the surface with a non-flammable liquid thereby depriving the fire of oxygen, and 2) it cools the area thus reducing even more the chance of re-ignition. Best part of all, it's about 1/2 the size of most people's fire extinguishers and they cost about the same amount.
 

Halcyon00

Well-Known Member
Messages
46
Very cool and great information Super Buick guy. And the gas mpg helps out cause I know it's poo already.


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f5moab

Mr. Beretta
Messages
1,997
Location
In hiding.....
Not a fan of the solid protection. They do retain heat, hold mud and rocks and block access. I had a friend lose his H1 because of his solid UCP. He had a hose to his Tcase split and the ATF sprayed out onto his exhaust pipe. He used up his two fire extinguishers trying to put out the fire but didn't have good enough access to put out the fire. He had to disconnect his trailer and push it away to save it while he watched his truck burn.

I agree. For off-road use, where the speeds tend to be very slow, thus no massive airflow being pushed through the engine compartment and undercarriage, and the vehicle was NOT designed to have fully enclosed undercarriage protection, full body under protection will increase heat retention. And if you are going to be mudding, you sure don't want mud packing up under the undercarriage as we here in the wild west don't want rocks and small boulders packing up between the protection and the undercarriage.
 

Halcyon00

Well-Known Member
Messages
46
This is from the website ""

First, we drove the test truck 400 miles at an average speed of 70 miles per hour to our proving grounds and took heat readings along the way on both the T-case and Transmission; our hottest temperature recorded was a cool 160 F and the engine temps remained within normal parameters. (So much for that myth!)

Next, in typical RubberDuck 4x4 fashion, we abused the snot out of the UDP attempting to scrape, pound and high center the UDP on some of the toughest trails in Tennessee. What we found was that the 1.5" gain of additional ground clearance made our abuse that much harder to perform! None the less, the UDP passed with flying colors and without so much as a dent!

Lastly, we found the deepest, sloppiest mud hole we could find that took us several attempts to plow through to test the "debris myth". What we found was that we ended up with little mud under the steering components and fuel tank area and none around the engine, Transmission and T-case! This is due to several factors; since the sections under the engine, Trans and T-case span across the frame rails by design, mud and debris have nowhere to enter and the additional cross members act as baffles to prevent mud and debris from getting back to these vital components from the open areas of the steering and fuel tank sections.


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Halcyon00

Well-Known Member
Messages
46
So maybe it is close enough to the bottom so it doesn't let any mud in. If they have a warranty it could mean they tested it enough to make sure it's safe eh?


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Cajun_Tiger_Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
428
Location
Lafayette, La
Maybe so. Worse comes to worse. Get a pressure washer and stick the nozzle up in the plates to get the mud out. Or just drop the body armor,to clean, after every off road trip. Rubberduck makes top notch products and they know what they are talking about when it comes to the Hummer brand. Give it a shot if you really want to go with it.

If it were me, and this is just an opinion, I would go with Part# SKU: RDH10-DLP-PT
 
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