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What did you do to your H2 recently?

Iwillnc

Well-Known Member
Messages
232
Location
NC
Go read my thread entitled “Look at this SOB”

Your EBCM computer module has died, you can pull the old computer off the EBCM without disconnecting any brake lines, this can then be sent off to be rebuilt.

In my case the tiny torx bits snapped when I was removing the computer and could not be drilled out so I ended up replacing the entire module and opening the entire brake system, repercussions of which I’m still dealing with now unfortunately. I haven’t shared that experience with the forum....

I think my case isolated, I doubt you will break the bolts but if I were you I would spray them very well before removal.


Luckily for you, before I realized that I had to replace the entire ABS brake module I sent off my computer to be rebuilt, so I have my completely rebuilt computer we can work out a deal on if you decide you would like it. Just let me know after you do some research.

You can find a couple threads across various forums on the topic

Ask me anything you would like to know I probably know...

The obvious option is to just pull the computer and have it rebuilt/get the rebuilt one I have. The other option is to replace the entire EBCM, which I would only recommend as a last ditch option.

GM does not sell new computers alone but will sell the entire module at $600+.
 
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Iwillnc

Well-Known Member
Messages
232
Location
NC
954c200d773e96a4097b90256ea72cc2.jpg


I imagine your dash looks something like this minus the battery light?
 

MilamJR

Well-Known Member
Messages
789
Location
Alabama
Is this a plug and play installation or do you have to do anything? Where is it located?


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Iwillnc

Well-Known Member
Messages
232
Location
NC
Is this a plug and play installation or do you have to do anything? Where is it located?


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Yes it is plug and play no programming needed, I would recommend disconnecting the battery as with all electronic changes.

The module is directly under the driver seat hugging the frame rail, there are 4 hard brake lines going into the top and 2 out the back.

Kind of a pain disconnecting the main ‘large’ connector but you will figure it out.
 
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MilamJR

Well-Known Member
Messages
789
Location
Alabama
Yes it is plug and play no programming needed, I would recommend disconnecting the battery as with all electronic changes.

The module is directly under the driver seat hugging the frame rail, there are 4 hard brake lines going into the top and 2 out the back.

Ok. Thanks. This is very helpful.


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Iwillnc

Well-Known Member
Messages
232
Location
NC
I have had no issues... well at least with the lights and ABS since installing the new EBCM.


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Big2dabank

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,215
Location
Central Florida
I can confirm this is a easy repair if all your doing is swapping the module. I did this a few years ago. The repair on the circuit board is actually not to hard to do if you want to rebuild it yourself. I'll have to look for the info, but I'm sure its online somewhere. Its been years since I had to do this repair.
 

MilamJR

Well-Known Member
Messages
789
Location
Alabama
I can confirm this is a easy repair if all your doing is swapping the module. I did this a few years ago. The repair on the circuit board is actually not to hard to do if you want to rebuild it yourself. I'll have to look for the info, but I'm sure its online somewhere. Its been years since I had to do this repair.

Thanks.


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MilamJR

Well-Known Member
Messages
789
Location
Alabama
When this started I couldn’t shift my transfer case. Will this fix that problem too or do I have multiple issues.


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grod98

Active Member
Messages
25
Location
Ny
Merry Christmas! I had some free time so I changed the driver door detent . It’s been making awful clicking noises for as long as I can remember. I got my rear end ready for another winter with no bumper and installed rain guards. Good day lolIMG_6161.jpg
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IMG_6159.jpg
IMG_6158.jpg


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grod98

Active Member
Messages
25
Location
Ny
I’m on a roll! Did the valley gasket and new valve covers. Almost at 200k IMG_6168.jpg
IMG_6167.jpg
IMG_6166.jpg
IMG_6165.jpg


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MilamJR

Well-Known Member
Messages
789
Location
Alabama
There is a 6x6 pool of diff fluid pooled under my front differential. Looks like the driver’s side seal. I am supposed to leave for a 600 mile each way trip after work on Thursday. Will be towing it behind my Motorhome. How much fluid does the differential hold? What fluid should I use to top it off.


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Iwillnc

Well-Known Member
Messages
232
Location
NC
My driver side diff seal leaked for about 10 years (dealer replaced several times and it never held) up until my axles were rebuilt last year when they fixed it once and for all. Any long distance driving would cause a drop or two to come down. But never more than a weep.

Point being if you have a 6x6 area of oil I would be very worried about taking the truck anywhere. I believe if you disconnect the CV from the axle shaft you can tap out the axle shafts (differential still in truck) and install a new seal.

Otherwise keep the differential filled up to the drain plug and check frequently.

I’ll have to look at the service manual to find the fluid amount...


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MilamJR

Well-Known Member
Messages
789
Location
Alabama
Thanks for the information on the front differential. Got the ECBM back yesterday and they installed it this morning. Still have every issue I had before sending it out for rebuild. ABS light still on and transfer case will not shift.


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alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,148
Location
Scottsdale
When you remove the axles to put in a new seal, check the axle shafts for grooves where the axle seal rested. A failing seal can wear a groove there and a new seal will only be a stopgap fix - a new axle could be necessary. If there's any buildup at that spot be sure to clean it with a Scotchbrite pad or similar.
 

Iwillnc

Well-Known Member
Messages
232
Location
NC
Thanks for the information on the front differential. Got the ECBM back yesterday and they installed it this morning. Still have every issue I had before sending it out for rebuild. ABS light still on and transfer case will not shift.


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Well wtf? I wonder if they made sure both cables were plugged in secure?


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