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What rear diff cover is best?

rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,852
Location
Bellflower, CA
After some undercarriage scraps from last weekends run I found a nice gouge on the bottom of the rear diff. So for some reinforcement all I could find is Purple Cranium and Solid Axle Industries for parts. They go about it differently, PC just adds reinforced bars to stock cover and SAI replaces the cover with a new heavy duty piece with a higher fill plug for more fluid. I see quite a few of you have the PC but only 1 with the SAI cover. What are the benefits from one to the other? I am leaning towards the SAI strictly because it is $25 cheaper.
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taylorblake831

Well-Known Member
Messages
323
Location
western washington
9 times outta 10 you get what you pay for, might be just fine buying a cheap one but the one time you need it to take a hard hit just hope it can take it

But I do like the solid one also. It looks like a cover/guard in one


-TEXAS FOREVER-
 

08H3

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,370
Location
United States
Is adding more fluid a good idea? Honestly, I don't know. Is that going to cause an issue with the second cover?
 

RamRod

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,914
Location
AB, Canada
I went with purple cranium because it looked stout and good at the same time.

One thing is forsure, if you went with any of them you are going to be better off than stock!
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,506
Location
Meridian, ID
Adding more fluid wont hurt in a differential and it is very common most aftermarket diff covers. I went SOLID because of price and my stock one has a nice hole in it from a rock and I had to patch up the hole with sealant to get me off the trail. Only thing that may happen with the added fluid is you may spit it out of the breather hose but people extend them for water fording purposes anyways and solves that issue. If you leave it, it will spit out until you reach the OEM level.

I cant see the front of the rubber duck one but if it protects the yoke thats good. I have spun my yoke on rocks before and its always a concern. Thats whats nice about 14 bolts you can get a pinion/yoke guard on there easily without losing ground clearance due to the removable pinion support. rubber duck you would lose ground clearance in an attempt to protect the yoke.

My vote is SOLID mainly because the chances of you banging your yoke on rocks is not likely and the only place I have done that is at the hammer trails, its cheaper and I have personally seen people literally bash the **** out of them and they just continue to take the abuse.
 

rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,852
Location
Bellflower, CA
When looking at the gouge that is just off center of the diff it made my wounder that a pointed boulder could still make its way through the supports of the PC and puncture the stamped steel cover. Think I'm going with the Solid, adds more rigidity, more fluid, and full protection. Price is not really a factor when gear is @ $75 but when it's more than 3 times the price I consider it.
 

High Five H2

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,627
Location
West Texas
there's a guy that sells 10 bolt covers on ebay for less than $100. it's nothing fancy, but it's solidly made. I got mine powdercoated and I like it.
 

rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,852
Location
Bellflower, CA
9 times outta 10 you get what you pay for, might be just fine buying a cheap one but the one time you need it to take a hard hit just hope it can take it

But I do like the solid one also. It looks like a cover/guard in one


-TEXAS FOREVER-
Ah, but you don't always get what you pay for either. More money doesn't always equal better product.
 

Best4x4

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,042
Location
Vidor, TX
I am extremely happy with my G2 Diff Covers on both my H3's. My Alpha has the standard HD aluminum diff guard with fill/level/drain holes, and the second G2 cover is the brute series which is black with polished fins (the brute goes for 200.00-250.00, but the quality is extremely top notch and I got it used for 20.00!!!!!). I'd honestly pay 200.00 for it though after looking at it and seeing the quality. I ran ARB Diff Guards on my 05 Rubicon, and the quality wasn't as good as the G2. Just make sure if you get the G2 to get the proper metric bolts. Mine came with the wrong thread bolts, but a quick run to the hardware store solved that!

On my 05 LJ I went with the G2 standard HD Diff Cover (same as on my Alpha) and I really put em to the test. Worst damage was a small scratch and nothing more. You can get the standard G2 bare aluminum guard on Ebay for around 120.00. It also comes in black if you prefer, but I personally like the bare aluminum model.

The Diff Guards are fine, but you're still not fully covered if something decides to try and poke thru it (learned that on my 05 Rubicon before the ARB Diff Covers). I myself prefer a full replacement to a guard. On our H3's we already have fill/drain plugs so thats not really a new feature (on most non D44 Jeep axles that is a huge deal though), but the extra protection and cooling from the aluminum cover are features that help vs the OEM pie pan diff guard. On my Alpha I was able to reuse the OEM gasket as well. G2 Brute has it's own built in gasket that I just lightly placed a small amount of RTV on as a CYA.
 

rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,852
Location
Bellflower, CA
I am going to stay away from any aluminum cover. Regardless of quality, aluminum is far more fragile than steel. I had an issue years ago on my 95 Silverado and the what I thought was a small bump was enough to crack the "heavy duty" cover. I was lucky and it never split open but was a slow leak. For hard hits steel is the best.
 

Best4x4

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,042
Location
Vidor, TX
I truly punished the pair of G2's I had on my LJ, slapped them along granite rocks many many times, hit a lot of roots, and had concrete grind on em as well, and all it did was scratch them and it did knock a G2 sticker off.... Their is nothing wrong with aluminum diff guards. Honestly I'd rather have the guard give it's live vs the entire axle housing. I've seen plenty of beefed up Steel diff guards get hit hard enough the energy was transferred thru to the mounting bolts which sheared off flush with the diff housing or were nearly impossible to get out on the side of a trail vs a cracked diff guard you replace and move on about your way.

The ARB cast iron monsters I had on my 05 Rubicon were only as strong as their mounting bolts, and they were so long to get thru the guard in some places I knew if I nailed something hard enough one day I'd be snapping bolts off.
 

rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,852
Location
Bellflower, CA
Good point. My racing buddies swear by aluminum but then they are running 100mph and rarely see rocks. A welded aluminum cover maybe better than cast but the cost is astronomical.
 
S

SedonaBound

Guest
I'd pick the no-frills welded 1/4 plate pot on ebay. It should be the strongest, and it includes a sst plug. But you would need to paint or coat it. I don't the Spider; allen head bolts fill with mud and strip easy at the worst time, the bar style can concentrate an impact load into a small area, and it looks like it would collect crud . Don't like the Rubber Duck because it relies on only a few bolts and its shaped like a scoop.

A casting, steel or alum, may be strong enough, but welded steel plate is stronger. I'd also change out the cover bolts to Gr 5 just for the helluvit.

OTOH, I have to assume all these have been field tested pretty thoroughly :).
 

ABNTROOP

HIPPO
Messages
1,985
Location
Vancouver, Wa
I drilled five drain holes in the bottom of my rubber duck and that has worked out well. The way it bolts to the diff combined with the U bracket that bolts around the driveline end of the diff makes it Very solid. As others have stated, you sacrifice a little bit of clearance. With it installed it brings the bottom level with the bottom of the hunner shock skids. That being said, it's heavy duty and will slide over stuff, doubt it'll hang up and I have had no issues with mine despite the armchair naysayers. :) Our rigs only lift so much and I don't want a SOA or rancho as 35's are enough and I enjoy parking in my garage. So my solution, more skid plates. I've put mine through their paces and am happy with choosing that approach. Looking forward to swapping to scarsmans plates. If I could get ahold of some TOMP mounts then I would maybe reconsider but for now it works.
 
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