Transfer case removal install help.

[rascole]

I am going to be removing my TC for repair tonight but would like some advise before I dig in. I have read several threads and have a good idea what to do but I would like some input if you have any.

1. Remove shafts.
2. Remove 5 bolts from TC to trans adapter.
3. Remove encoder motor. Here is where I need help. I have read that the TC needs to be in "neutral" first before it can be removed????? Is it the same for re-installation?
4. Remove speed sensor.
5. Remove vent hose.
6. Lower/remove cross member for ease of work??????
7. Does the case slide back first before it drops????

 

[H3slate]

Oh boy. You will need to undo and move out of the way the wiring harness that goes over the t-case. It connects to the encoder and speed sensor, but also has a couple of grommets that hold the loom in place.

I have never put the case in neutral to remove it.

The case will slide back before it drops. You will want a jack and a couple of hands to hold the case as it comes down. I remove the transmission cross member too, got hung up on it the first time I removed the case. The case is lopsided and heavy, awkward to get down.

You will want a new gasket between the case and transmission.

The manual also recommends replacing the bolts that hold the T case together. They have a protective rubber coating so the steel doesn't react with the magnesium case. I had to order them through the dealer.

Good luck, take your time as you take it apart, remember the order of part removal.

Be very careful with the shifter rod (not sure of actual name) at it's end is a small needle tip that keeps it in place. It can break very easily, and usually a 3 day wait for a new one.

 

[H3slate]

When putting the case back together, make sure the shifter rod is in the same position when removed. Encoder motor will not go on if in the wrong position.

 

[rascole]

I am going to have my local shop do the rebuild. I'm just pulling it and re-installing it. Didn't know the cases were magnesium, that sucks, or, magnesium sucks.

 

[alrock]

• Drain the fluid first
• No need to put the t-case in neutral. In fact, like H3slate said, it just needs to be in the same position which is usually 4 high unlock. 10mm bolts, four of them. Don't forget to disconnect electrical connection first.
• No need to remove the speed sensor; you just need to disconnect the wiring harness (usually). The harness may be zip tied to case so cut those zip ties.
• No need to lower crossmember. I stated before you needed to, but was able to do it this past weekend without lowering
• Get a 15mm stubby ratcheting wrench
• You'll slide the case backwards off the bolts, and then further back off of the input shaft. From there, we twisted it to that the bolts were towards the driver's side and the rear output moved towards the passenger side. Then we rotated the unit on that axis, moving the passenger side bulge facing downward, then we could move it again to clear the two crossmembers.

 

[Bigunit]

TC gasket GM part #15642511

 

[rascole]

TC gasket GM part #15642511

this is the gasket for the tc to tranny or tc split case?

 

[Bigunit]

TC to tranny.

 

[rascole]

I'll be pulling it this weekend, shop was too busy to get it done this week. Initial quote for a full rebuild is $500-$600.

 

[05Mudiak]

If I ever have to drop ours a 4:1 is going back in. for about double that rebuild cost but I will be happier with the 4:1

 

[derian06]

If I ever have to drop ours a 4:1 is going back in. for about double that rebuild cost but I will be happier with the 4:1

Cheapest I found for the 4:1 was 1600$

 

[rascole]

Cheapest I found for the 4:1 was 1600$

Cheapest I found for a complete 4494 TC is $1,100 from a company called Proven Force.

 

[rsc]

Cheapest I found for a complete 4494 TC is $1,100 from a company called Proven Force.

I had that place bookmarked for a while now, never know when I'm going to need to call them. Nice references in there too.

 

[4speedfunk]

I got a freshly rebuilt 4:1 in a bag on the shelf. Like all Hummer components...you need a spare everything standing-by!

(someday I'll probably have an entire complete H3 standing-by)

:giggle:

 

[rascole]

I got a freshly rebuilt 4:1 in a bag on the shelf. Like all Hummer components...you need a spare everything standing-by!

(someday I'll probably have an entire complete H3 standing-by)

:giggle:

So what your saying is you'll check on shipping for me? lol

 

[derian06]

Cheapest I found for a complete 4494 TC is $1,100 from a company called Proven Force.

I was about to cancel my order with gmpartsdirect, but I saw that they only carry 06-07 and not for the *alpha*

 

[cgalpha08]

I was about to cancel my order with gmpartsdirect, but I saw that they only carry 06-07 and not 08+

Should be the same for all years.

 

[derian06]

Should be the same for all years.

I've been told that the Alpha NR6 is specific. Meant to say alpha, not 08+

 

[rascole]

All the research I have done says they are the same. 06H3 says there may be a mounting tab for a heat shield for the V8 exhaust crossover pipe.

 

[Chocflip201]

Cheapest I found for the 4:1 was 1600$

I just sold my 4:1 for $382 lol.

 

[Chocflip201]

The dry transfer case weighs about 90 lbs. I bench pressed mine down but a jack could have been used too.

 

[4speedfunk]

There are no less than six part numbers for H3 transfer cases (BW 3393/3394). They're all nearly identical, and they all use the same design. Alpha's have a slightly different case due to the exhaust system routing. However this difference is so minor, that its almost comical. Any H3 transfer case will exchange properly to any H3. It doesn't matter what year (06-10). It doesn't matter what motor (3.5, 3.7, or 5.3). It doesn't matter what tranny (auto or stick). An H3 t-case is an H3 t-case. The only thing you need to be aware of is the ratio (option NR4 or NR6). So Derian...grab any ole 4:1 case and throw it in. It will fit.

If you are shopping via GM...the latest, greatest version of the 4:1 case is GM #24247592. This is a 4:1, ADV. PAK, BW-3394 with the raised fill plug. I'm fairly certain this also has the chain snubber inside it. It comes with the encoder motor and pre-filled with the correct GM "mystery" fluid (oh god...now we can start a new thread on that again!) for around $1600. If you are shopping outside of GM...search using the official Borg Warner model number BW-3394, as it will yield better search results than the GM part number. What I don't know for sure is: whether or not GM #24247592 has a metal shift fork. This is a service replacement assembly, and it might already have a Dorman fork inside it. I did not take mine apart to check.

All evidence I can find says...GM never made or installed metal shift forks in any year H3 t-case. I've installed metal shift forks in several 4494's and they were all made by Dorman (#600-560). If you got a GM t-case that has a metal fork...its a safe bet that it was outsourced to Dorman and installed at the factory, or it was the Dorman part installed during a repair. I have cracked open several known 08-up virgin cases, and ALL of them had plastic forks, so the whole "08-up came with metal forks" story is probably b.s. When shopping for forks...neither Dorman nor GM clearly label their fork material, and its sometime hard to determine if a part is plastic or metallic. I'll save you the trouble. All Dorman forks are aluminum. All GM forks are plastic. That has been my experience.

 

[rascole]

Is the chain snubber a worth while addition to older cases?

 

[CaseyS]

I've found if you lay the transfer case across your thighs right above the knee, you can simply bend your legs to jack it high enough in place to stab it. Removal is just the reverse. I've never drained it when pulling and never lost more than an ounce of fluid or so if it accidentally tipped too far. I've probably dropped mine 5 or 6 times now.

 

[derian06]

Anyone have a link to the metal shift fork?