Front end groaning

[lowtrac]

It's been doing this for a while, but I've had bigger issues to tackle so this is next on the list. Anybody know what this is? I'm thinking it may be hubs since they get some side-load pressure when turning. I have no idea if they've ever been replaced. Any other ideas? It's most noticeable around 0:28 - 0:35. It only makes that noise (or gets that loud at least) when turning. Left turns seem to be worse.

[video=youtube;oRY501Pz0iE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oRY501Pz0iE[/video]

 

[rascole]

Seems to low and slow for a hub. Mine were a high pitch sound that changed with speed. Also, it did start to throw a ABS error. If you have a OBD reader look for the ABS sensor counts, if it is a hub, the counts will be way off compared to the other 3.

 

[JPaul]

I didn't hear any groaning, just creaking which sounded more like the sound ill-fitting plastic panels will make as cars get older. I know mine has some groans and pops from the front end that I haven't identified yet, but I have a feeling it's the control arms starting to get old.

 

[lowtrac]

I didn't hear any groaning, just creaking which sounded more like the sound ill-fitting plastic panels will make as cars get older. I know mine has some groans and pops from the front end that I haven't identified yet, but I have a feeling it's the control arms starting to get old.

It's there. It's not the creaking I'm hearing. It's very noticeable listening to the video through headphones. Sounds kinda like blowing over the top of a bottle. Sometimes there's a loud pop/bang (happened this afternoon.) I've locked down the center diff bushing so there's no movement there. I have found a bit of up and down play in the driver's side hub but nothing on the passenger side. I've seen them get MUCH worse on other vehicles and not make noise though. Since it does it while turning I figure it has to be something related to the steering. Could the front diff be making noise possibly? I changed the gear oil in it a month or so ago and didn't notice a difference.

 

[lowtrac]

Seems to low and slow for a hub. Mine were a high pitch sound that changed with speed. Also, it did start to throw a ABS error. If you have a OBD reader look for the ABS sensor counts, if it is a hub, the counts will be way off compared to the other 3.

I have an OBD-II reader that'll read ABS codes, but I don't think it'll show any diagnostic data other than that. I'll give it a look though.

 

[rascole]

There should not be any play in the hubs. I have replaced many over the years and most have thrown a ABS code.

 

[JPaul]

I have both my center diff and the end diff bushings recently replaced with OD bushings, so I know mine isn't that either. I haven't noticed my hubs being loose at all, and they've recently been checked by Les Schwab. I'm going to try spraying lube on everything again on control arm bushings to see if it goes away, seems to have done so last time I did it several months ago. If it goes away after that then I know it'll be the control arm bushings. You can try doing the same.

 

[Enter Hummer]

Hmm, I always thought moans while turning meant low power steering fluid. Have you checked it? Also, I dont know if HUMMER has it but my old toyota does the same thing while turning while being full on power steering fluid. Reason it does that is theres a clogged filter somewhere in the steering.

Can you jack the front up and replicate the moans?

 

[lowtrac]

Hmm, I always thought moans while turning meant low power steering fluid. Have you checked it? Also, I dont know if HUMMER has it but my old toyota does the same thing while turning while being full on power steering fluid. Reason it does that is theres a clogged filter somewhere in the steering.

Can you jack the front up and replicate the moans?

I know the power steering pump isn't that healthy, but you can steer from lock to lock while sitting still and it doesn't do it. It's only when it's rolling.

 

[Traxx]

Sounds alot like the body bushings creaking. I replaced all mine, its not the most fun job depending on how much rust you got under there.

 

[lowtrac]

Since I had some play in the driver's side hub I decided to replace it. After getting the hub removed I grabbed the steering knuckle/spindle and... clunk clunk. So this is happening.

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[lowtrac]

Current situation:

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[lowtrac]

I got everything buttoned back up with ANOTHER new CV axle (maybe that was the bang I heard. Inside joint this time though.) I still have the groaning but the pops and stuff seem to be gone. It was impressive how shot the ball joints were. Especially the lower.

After all this I fire it up for the first test drive. It won't shift from park. I ended up pulling the console top and pressing the solenoid button. I checked the brake lights/switch and checked voltage at the solenoid harness. I believe I'm supposed to be seeing 12v on the brown wire when I press the brake pedal but I'm not. I've got voltage on both yellow wires. Does anyone have the pinout for that connector or any insight on how that system works?

 

[lowtrac]

For anyone still following along...

The PCM sends a signal to the BCM letting it know the transmission is in park. When you press the brake pedal a signal is sent to the BCM so it knows the pedal is pressed. Then the BCM sends some voltage, I'm assuming 12v, to the park lock solenoid which actuates and retracts a plastic finger allowing the button to be pressed on the shifter and move from park. I was never able to discover a full pinout for the plug at the solenoid so I made some assumptions and tried to force the solenoid to actuate by sending 12v to the wire that didn't have voltage on it and wasn't ground. Nothing happened. I have two ideas on how to manually bypass the solenoid. The easiest would be to pull the return spring from under the manual release button on the solenoid and tape the button down. The other, which wouldn't require tape, would be to remove the solenoid assembly, disassemble, then take out that last piece of plastic. Obviously each of these would result in the loss of the brake to shift safety feature so use at your own risk. Here's a picture of the inside of the solenoid assembly. This is from a Chevrolet SSR, but it appears to be the same or at least very similar.



But, this morning I was on my way to work and was about 10 miles away from home before I realized I hadn't pressed the release button to shift this morning. Got to work and it's working fine now. Could be a brake pedal switch I guess but I've had a few other weird electrical glitches so I think my BCM might be dying.

 

[alrock]

As always, double check the battery condition as well as the connectors for any electrical gremlins. It's also possible for corrosion to occur within the cables themselves if the corrosion on the terminals was left unchecked.