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Where are they now?

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,506
Location
Meridian, ID
I wanted to start this thread, I have seen this numerous times on just about any 4x4 forum, but it probably happens the least on pirate.

You start wheeling...you break, you modify, you plan something big, you tackle a big project, then a bigger project, you post up with ideas and then have bigger projects and then all of a sudden its done! All the excitement ends and the build slowly works its way down the pages of a forum and disappears. I always wondered, did it end up the way they wanted it? Do they use it? Did they lose interest? Were the modifications a fail? Or do they tell it all works because a ton of time and effort was put into it? I will be truthful and talk about the success's and fails.

I felt myself going down that path as I haven't posted much on here lately but I want to give a "where are they now" update.

So for the new guys on here I started with a bone stock H3. I was around when this forum started. It then got 35's, then a locker, then a 4:1 t case, then a broken diff, broken this, broken that, etc. Then a rancho lift, then those rear springs sagged, then deavers, then back to stock springs but sprung over.

I went through 4 front diffs and one tie rod before I made the leap to the SAS.

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I was the 4th spring over I believe and still IFS at the time (after bebe, 4speed and the GM engineered Rancho H3) I probably have 70k miles on the spring over now and I recommend it to the fullest. That modification was a 100% success. The only changes I would ever possibly make is French the spring hangers into the frame to lower it a bit but that modification was awesome.

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Then I did the solid axle swap. I think I was the 5th but the 3rd to do a DIY driveway build. Chopping an entire suspension off a vehicle and building it from scratch can be a lot of work but really the work doesn't end when it hits pavement...or it can and leave the end user putting up with things that are undesirable. Its the tuning and slowly scratching things off the list to make it into the vehicle you want!

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I recommend the SAS for people that want to rock crawl. People throw around the term, I plan to do a SAS loosely. How much did it cost? how much this, how much that? Honestly, it depends on cost, it depends on it ride quality. it all depends....Was this modification a success? Yes, but it also came with months/years of tuning and making it better. It could have been tuned in months if I had the money but I tuned it slowly over years...Was it ever dangerous? or miserable to drive? No, it wasn't, it rode nice, it was safe out of the box but it could be fine tuned.

Then the 5 cyl motor blew up. I remember getting the envoy with a 5.3 from Zach and people said that the firewall was modified by GM for alphas and it wouldn't fit. Sure enough it did! It just had one pinch seam that needed to be hammered flat. The 5.3 is awesome but is it worth it? For me yes, because it would have been more expensive to sell my H3, buy an alpha then do a SAS and spring over. Is it worth it for a near stock H3? No...I would just take your parts off and buy an Alpha.

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Then I did axle swaps, I would say don't do 1 tons unless you plan to run 40's. With a D44 and 10 bolt rear and 37's you can have a lot of fun, you may break something here or there but you will break less then stock! Now I run a custom D70 front I built and an Eaton HO72 rear. They have been awesome and haven't broke yet on 40's.

Then I recently did the cage. Its a hybrid cage that is unfinished. Was that a success or fail? Well it's hard to say if you haven't rolled it. I would say the cage will be a success but being in a rush for Ultimate adventure it made I didn't finish it and that made for extra work in the end. Not tying it into the frame and not beefing up the slider legs that the A pillar attaches to all caused a lot of additional work later. The slider legs bent causing the a pillar to shift up. I knew the 1x1 legs wouldn't hold up in a severe roll but would last in a flop and that had to do because I had 4 weeks to build a rear Dana 70 axle into a front axle, a cage, half doors, and everything else. Well I bent the legs rock crawling (just like my last set) and I had to cut the 3 1x1 .188 wall legs off then I got scared of bending it and went to 2x3 .188 wall tubing for the slider legs. That was a fail! the 2x3 hits the pinch seam and makes a terrible noise against the body. So off they went and I settled on 1.5x3 .25wall and added 7 legs instead of 3. That seems to be a success so far, no bending and no noise. My recommendation is that you do the cage at once, over build it where strength matters (don't add dead tubes to just add weight and no strength) and once its done its done! It will save a ton of additional work.

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Steering for the SAS, man the steering is a pain in my ass. Is it unsafe? No, but I bought an old used box then went to another old used box and the steering feel was loose. I went to a new box and ram assist and it was good for a while and then I kept destroying Drag link ends due to abuse off road causing the steering to be loose. The steering was never as tight as I wanted it. I have gotten it better over the years and I am about to finish my last upgrade to it. Heims, I know they don't recommend heims for the street but I have had success with heims on other parts of my rig. Tie Rod End's gradually get ****tier and for me they could get ****ty after one or two off road runs. Heims stay tighter longer, they wont last as long but they will stay tight much longer. I would rather replace them more often then deal with loose steering. If you wheel moderately then TRE's should be a success.

Now for the biggest fail's the tie rod. we have tiny tie rods stock. 16mm tie rods, or .63 inches. I had 1.5in tie rod that was .25wall thick. I never broke one to leave me stranded like a stock tie rod but with that much beef I thought I would never have an issue. WRONG, I bend them every time I go out and am constantly having to adjust the toe after an off road run. The 1.5in .25wall is a success for most but under hard abuse they start to frown at you. So I am going to make it a success with an aluminum tie rod, they deflect and go back to their normal shape unlike steel.

[video=youtube;B601rrLFn-E]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B601rrLFn-E[/video]

Another fail, skid plates. Man, I can't keep skid plates straight. I bent 1/4in steel pretty bad. I also reinforced the stock gas tank skid and wrecked that with ease.
I now have a 3/8in skid for the tcase and so far that has held up but its tough to consider it a success yet because I am not happy with the weight it has due to a thick piece of steel. so its a success in terms of not bending but I don't wanna make the rig 8k lbs. the gas tank skid is going to be custom and I will try 1/4in first for weight and I figure it doesn't see near the abuse the t case skid does.

So overall, was the truck a success or fail? I would say success and becoming more of a success as time goes by. Any fail was just a setback and a reason to come up with another solution. Other people have driven my rig, its comfy, rides nice and is drivable for anyone. There are no fears of some quirk happening and causing bad things to happen if someone else is behind the wheel.

This year was a crazy year. I drove it multiple trips to hammers (135 miles each way to some of the gnarliest rock crawling in the country.) Then I drove it to moab (750 miles each way) wheeled a full week and drove 750 miles home. Then I got picked for Ultimate adventure, I drove from so cal to Arizona wheeled in Arizona and Utah, then drove from Utah to So cal. Then I drove from so cal to nor cal (430 miles one way) wheeled the rubicon and drove home, I did that 2 times this summer! I just finished up my first hammers trip for the upcoming hammer season. We wheeled 5 trails in a day then drove 135 miles home.

This year I have driven it all CA, AZ, UT and NV beating it to hell, airing up the tires and driving hours and hours home time and time again. That's why I have been quiet, I have been using it. Fine tuning will continue but I can certainly see light at the end of the tunnel. Sway bars, more shock tuning, finishing the cage, a transfer case swap but enjoying it along the way.

Lastly, I don't daily drive it anymore, but I did daily drive it for years after the SAS and the only reason I don't is because I got a company vehicle from work. A SAS'd H3 can be sensor happy and streetable. Its easy to make it kick ass offroad and its easy to make it kickass for the street but getting it to do both well, that's where the fine tuning becomes important.

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Last week

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Last weekend

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Panzer07

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,548
Location
Ontario, CA
Haven't really offroad mine, but i do agree in the steering system lol, i been meaning to ask you and cj if you find yourselves wiggling the steering wheel often to keep it straight. Don't remember doing that with the stock steering. Even tho mine was remanufactured and pair with the ram since day one.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
I put on some new wiper blades.

Everything else still works, including my aircraft quality heims on my tie rods, lasting over 100,000 miles between to H3's.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,506
Location
Meridian, ID
I put on some new wiper blades.

Everything else still works, including my aircraft quality heims on my tie rods, lasting over 100,000 miles between to H3's.

Heims get a bad rap but I think they are far superior then TREs the more and more I hit tough trails.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,506
Location
Meridian, ID
Haven't really offroad mine, but i do agree in the steering system lol, i been meaning to ask you and cj if you find yourselves wiggling the steering wheel often to keep it straight. Don't remember doing that with the stock steering. Even tho mine was remanufactured and pair with the ram since day one.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

There's numerous things you can do. First is box adjustment. I felt when I got a new box they didn't properly adjust it. It's kind of like backlash in an axle. If you tighten it up that will help a lot.

2nd, what hole is your drag link in the steering arm. The further away the more input required to make a change. I put mine in the closer hole but it required a bend in the drag link to clear the track bar mount.

After those 2 adjustments I was pretty happy with my steering. Then I started killing drag link ends. A stock H3 or any vehicle will have loose steering with bad ends. I assume yours is fine since it's new.
 

GreatDaneHummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
994
Location
Chicago
From your experience would 42x14.5R17 tires fit on your H3 and could your axles handle it for the rock crawling your doing?
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,506
Location
Meridian, ID
Can the axles handle it? Yes. I'm running stock shafts and that would probably break at some point but a chromoly shaft upgrade is easy. Ring and pinion would be fine on 42s.

For fitting them? At this ride height I'd either have to lift it more or get out the sawzall. Personally I would never lift it more then the height I'm at. So I would break out the sawzall and start trimming
 

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,677
Location
Scottsdale
Oddly, I have pretty few mods to my H3 from bone stock to where it is today. I have a heck of a lot in maintenance repairs, but not many mods.
First upgrade was UCP, not but not until I bent a propshaft.
Added Rocky Road sliders
Next was 305 tires, now at 315s
Went to a 4:1 t-case after I pounded a rock through the UCP. The UCP then got reinforced
Got a Gobi rack and some lights
Added a rear locker
Upgraded to PFC crossmember and steering rack bracket and stopped some of the wear and tear/breakage
Added a winch bumper

Took about eight years to compile all of those mods.

And that's about it. But then again, not much is needed for those occasional drives to the mall.

Here's the stump that bent my propshaft
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At the mall with my copilot
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Happy Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,465
Location
Wisconsin
Thanks for starting the thread Chris. I saw your H3 referenced in Petersen and figured right away it was one of you guys here on the forum.
It's looking good, your rig.

I to mostly concentrate on making it more user appropriate for my situations I find myself in for personal but more so for business.
Lots of preventative maintenance. I do like to try tires out though.
I've had four or five sets on Happy Hummer alone.
My most current set, bought a year ago is Nokain rottiva A/T 265 75 r 16. Man they are the cats meow. Awesome on wet, icy, snow covered roads. A bit of noise but solid tires.

The roof rack I chose works but I still feel I can do better.
The l.e.d lighting is decent but I want to redo it again soon.
I purchased some yellow fog/driving lights for the front end and those are awesome.
Purchased all new ac Delco wiper blades not bad.
Put on made to fit splash guards and that was money really well spent.

I had Hankook ATM rf10 tires on for a couple years and they just s#cked. They just were weak. Sloppy and tore, ripped and fell apart quick. They collected nails and debris like NO other tire I've owned.

I had light guards on the back and disliked them because you could not clean the lights and they cracked the light housing because there just for looks and do nothing to protect the fixture. I sold them at a loss.

I've got more but that's enough for now.
 

rsc

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,087
Location
Tulsa
Well I've had my H3 for about 8 years now. Back when I bought my first one the only thing that people were doing to the H3 was 35's, Rancho and/or body lifts, low profile shock mounts and spring hangar skids. If you wanted to wheel it you didn't have a lot of options for upgrades. It seems that now you can buy an H3 with the intention of going SAS and SOA to wheel hard with V8 swaps becoming much more common.

I bought mine knowing that I wanted to keep it mostly stock and retain the IFS. Along the way I added Hilljob's low buck air intake tube but should have gotten the Air Doc tube for the longevity of metal vs plastic. I didn't see much improvement to justify doing it again. I started having heat issues so I added functional hood louvers to cool it off around town at low speeds. They helped some, with quicker cooling down at low speeds (or maybe slower heating up compared to before), but some almost no difference on the highway. I would still do the mod again because it does work, if not as miraculously as the Run Cool website would lead you to believe, and it really changes the appearance up. I tried an e-fan to free up horsepower and maybe cool more efficiently. While I did feel more power and pep without the sluggish feeling of the stock fan in summer as the clutch engaged, it didn't cool any better and was less efficient. I think that a 3500-4500cfm setup would have worked better and I hear that the stock fan pushes 8k cfm when engaged and revving up the motor. With the e-fan you get no extra benefit revving the motor. You do feel an extra 10 hp or so from not spinning the fan all the time and it pulls harder as a result. It is a mod I might do again, but only if I didn't live where the temps get to 100° and/or I found a really high flow setup that worked.

The biggest, and my most favorite mod, was buying another H3 with the 5 speed. I knew I wanted a manual, hated that my 4L60e died after 134k miles of abuse and liked the better gear ratios. It helps that I grew up manually shifting in sports cars when automatics were 3 speed slushboxes that killed hp and mpg. I also had a plan- 37's, a body lift, custom fab'd sliders, no roof rack and minimal extras that would add weight like big winch bumpers. Keeping it low and light was the theme. I figured that at some point the 7.5 AAM would be destroyed, but knew that a SAS was a proven option at that point and was hoping that a D44 IFS would soon become available. So while going from 33's to 35's added some extra ability and grins, the 37's added more clearance but at the expense of fun. Every trip out let me try harder and harder trails and obstacles but left me frazzled trying to wheel gently and not grenade the front diff. It really needs a beefier front end for what I do and a CI housing isn't much of an upgrade in strength. The D44 ifs was available for a month or so but when I checked on it recently it wasn't showing up on their website so that may not be an option any more.

About the time I bought the 5 speed I also got back into motorcycles. Between that and my wife's busted ankle I haven't been driving the H3 much and wheeling even less. As a daily, a 5 speed and 37's is about like the 4L60e and 35's, but with the added benefit of up to 19mpg on trips. Obviously, I am not done with tweaking this one to my liking but after riding around in friends buggies on level 5 trails I don't think I'm ever going to be there in the H3. At least not until it becomes a trail only rig with a gutted interior, lightweight half doors and a lightweight tailgate, D60's on coilovers and 38-40" tires. That would drop close to 1,000lbs and gain back about 150-200lbs, but still see a weight reduction for better climbing ability as the H3's weight still holds it back somewhat. Unfortunately, it will never be as capable as those buggies are. 20161002_114605.jpg
 
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Pappibri

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,611
Location
Cohoctah, MI
Trying to keep her alive and running is where mines at. Just rebuilt transfer case, then the rear axle chasing a gremlin. Did not kill the gremlin, he must be hiding in the front diff. So now its time to rebuild the front diff. But I finally built my own winch mount and mounted it. Had it in the garage new in box for 3 years. Oh well, I love my rig.

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Messages
22
Location
California
Where are they now? I still have my '06 H3 that I bought in 2005. I rarely drive it now since I bought a new car and commute about 100 miles a day for work.
 

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