Which lower ball joints?

[Jeepwalker]

Need lower Ball Joints. What have you guys used with good luck?

I was planning on ordering GM replacements but the pictures I saw those don't have the retaining clip on the bottom. Maybe it's not needed (??). What have you found? I really don't do any wheeling. I know the knee-jerk response is to say, "you GOTTA HAVE grease zerks!" but honestly, I'm not sure anymore. I've changed a decent number of ball joints over 25 years ..always do comprehensive maintenance to my vehicles, ...I seem to have gotten as many or more miles out on non-greasable *OEM Quality* ball joints, if not more.

I would 'suspect' that the GM replacements would be the right hardness and should contain an inner hardened cage around the ball, that extends ball joint life (which a lot of the cheapie joints don't have). I'm more concerned with good quality in the first place, than a zerk. I also see GM sells a less expensive kit WITH a zerk ...I think I saw a Moog with one too (not the problem-solver though). The problem with most ball joints is eventually the boot fills with grease (even if ya only grease a little at a time) and can tear. Not many ball joint boots have a grease-relief-hole ....like I've seen on a few, which is a great idea to keep water out, but let old grease out too. Anyone know what joint might have that?

Soooo..... all that being said, what have you found?


Big thanks for your replies!!

 

[alrock]

GM or AC Delco. Both have served me well. ACD has the zerk, GM doesn't.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[Jeepwalker]

I thought about those too. How did the quality of the AC Delco look? Just curious if you happen to look under the boot to see if there was a hardened sleeve around the ball? Thanks

 

[rascole]

I have the ACD too and am happy with them.

 

[alrock]

I thought about those too. How did the quality of the AC Delco look? Just curious if you happen to look under the boot to see if there was a hardened sleeve around the ball? Thanks

Never looked under the boot. I've had one on for six years, the other for longer. Approx 50K miles in that time since the most recent one, with a bit of wheeling in there.

 

[atvspeed4]

Only stick with OEM or Ac delco. Almost all others we have tried are just silverado 1500 balljoints that are listed as same application as the H3, which, while the have the correct taper angle, are SLIGHTLY the wrong length taper. On many knuckles this allows the nut to bottom out on the stud before it properly preloads against the knuckle. It is slight enough that many owners might think they have it correctly and properly torqued but not the case. Some brands also do not allow enough travel as the stock balljoints which we have found prematurely wears them out.

The OEM balljoints do not have a snap ring but they are designed in a way that you use a cold chisel to make three small detents in the top like the factory.

 

[Jeepwalker]

Thanks guys. All great info!! Appreciate it.
There seems to be a wide price difference between AC-D and OEM GM, any thoughts between the two?

 

[Traxx]

If you wind up with the Moog make sure to get the correct ones with the zerk at a 45 rather than on top, otherwise you won't be able to grease them. I've used both, haven't noticed a difference other than saving 40 on the pair and having a zerk.

 

[08H3]

I put in Rare Parts ball joints because they were advertised as made in USA. They were not, but seem to be holding up fine after about 50,000.

 

[Jeepwalker]

Thanks guys. I ended up ordering AC Delco's with the zerk. I'm pretty religious with maintenance, I figured being able to add new grease on a continued basis would be better than letting the old grease and lots of metal filings wear against each other. I may consider punching a small uniform hole in the boot if I can slip it off ...and adding a small sealable nipple as a grease-release port.

The key with any greasing (for guys unaware), is to use the "Same" grease every time. Different brands of greases use a variety of different carrier soaps. As some of you I'm sure are aware, some carriers are incompatible with each other, and can (will) make the grease become 'watery', losing it's lubricating properties -- leading to (potentially) premature joint failure. You never know what different shops use if you take it in for service, and you can bet a variety of different greases will be used eventually ....which is why non-greaseable joints with 'some' effective lube is probably better than fresh grease that becomes ineffective.
https://www.gardnerdenver.com/en/nash/parts-and-service/maintenance-tips/never-mix-greases

But in my case, I never let other guys' lubing gun anywhere near my lower ball joints!!

 

[Jeepwalker]

Ok, I can answer my own question ..at least partially:

1) The AC Delco ball joints for an 07 do not have a hardened cage around the ball joint ball. It's just a single stud with a machined and polished ball that is pressed into the lower housing. I'm not sure if the GM ball joints which are quite a bit more expensive, have a cage or not as I only bought the AC Delco's. If any one buys the more expensive GM ball joints, remove the boot and move the stud to it's furthest position and look closely at the ball, to see what it looks like. At any rate, I'm sure these'll work great for a while. I'll just have to keep them well-greased.

2) The Boot *does* have a molded circle with a very thin membrane which appears to be designed to burst under grease pressure ...as a grease relief hole in the event of heavy greasing. That's good news. When install the ball joint, it would be a good idea to locate the hole away from the rotor, but it probably doesn't matter.

Anyway, if anyone cares ...there ya go.