My son is trying to remove the roof rack sliders so we can get the plastic trim off for a bedliner spray resto on the trim.
Problem is we can't find the key and don't even know what it looks like. Digging through some old spare keys now.
Any advice on how to get them off without the key...
650,
Good thing I'm in AZ and not in CA!!! Can't stand CA! My perfect unicorn 2007 Ram 2500 Lariat Megacab 6.7 Diesel with 68,500 grandpa driven miles got side swiped on the highway in LA last week. So pissed!!! Seriously jacked up the rear driver's side door.
Back on topic, got it through...
Yeah I replaced the drivers side rear o2 sensor, no change. And yeah, emissions annually in AZ.
Oldest boy has it in Kansas for 5 years, no emissions, so the occasional code wasn’t a worry. He got a new truck, winning a natty has that effect on the local car dealerships! Thanks you SCOTUS...
I’ve been looking and it seems the CA compliant CATs are available to the public, just more costly. AZ is less restrictive.
I believe the intimidation factor with the H3 is simply the right clearances.
Later,
Matt
I’ve replaced plenty of starters. Never saw one act like that. In your video are you holding the starter constantly in the start position? If so, the intermittent engage then disengage thing it is doing is very unusual. The grinding part doesn’t seem to hit until the flywheel is spinning a bit...
Used the Dorman 18mm X 1.5 gasketed spark plug nonfoulers, drilled completely out using a 1/2” drill bit. Codes cleared and haven’t returned.
Short term remedy while we replace the cats.
That's what I'm thinking. The only limitation I see on the H3 Cats are their tight clearances and small size. My guy is an expert welder and confident we can jig it up and get the angles to match.
He's also got an extra double knuckle/double cardan CVish joint he's going to build into a front...
SAME!!! Sunroof leaks In AZ too! Detail shop supposedly cleared them twice. Fronts test drained fine, rears immediately over flowed.
Pulled down the headliner, and pulled the rear wheel wells. driver side drain plug at the wheel well wasn’t pushed all the way through and was punched shut...
Besides tight clearances, is there any technical reason not to individually replace each cat?
Mine are shot, and constantly throwing code P0420/P0138 and won’t pass emissions. Probably doing the extender trick for the short term.
At close to $1000 to replace both driver’s and passenger side...
Any thoughts on perhaps an upgrade to the water pump while I'm in there doing the fan clutch?
I've seen various claims online, flowkooler, speedmaster... What's the consensus out there on their ability to increase cooling for a 5.3L. Or... does increased flow hurt by decreasing dwell time of...
Thanks guys, the rear is pretty harsh over pretty innocuous bumps in the road. I’m thinking it’s the lack of bump stops and worn out leaf springs. Sits pretty low in the rear for what looks like no good reason.
Thanks!
Hmmmm, Doc Olds, any shot you're a Classic Olds or ROP forum guy??? Sounds familiar... I was mostly an ROP guy for years before the various crashes. So much institutional knowledge was lost.
The Radiator and evap cores are pristine as the entire AC System was just replaced. I think an new HD...
Yeah, the PO put some junky terminals on it that screw down the cables to the terminal. Probably better than stock. It still drags when cranking. Like it's struggling to turn. Almost like the batt is a touch low, but I know it has a full charge. Eventually I'll get around to all marine grade...
Thanks Oscar! You pretty much hit where I was going with this cooling system. I'll have to look at the freezing point of 30% coolant. We are a pretty quick drive from the mountains and potential freezing conditions in the winter.
If I can find one, a Hayden severe duty fan clutch is going in...
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