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No problem. Yea it's just comes down to, which headache do you want to try and fix/deal with. Anything is possible with the right amount of $ haha

I'm telling ya, just go the d60 route. For what it's worth, I'm on a dana 60 in the front and 14b in the rear and I stick out....2-3 inches on each side.

4l80 is physically bigger, bell housing is bigger and it's longer over all by like an inch or so, and heavier. The 4l60e also has a 27 spline output shaft and the 4l80 has a 32 spline. So you'll have to figure out how to mate it to the factory transfer case or go with an aftermarket transfer...

Are you doing the sas yourself or a shop? The rear is easy. Couple of leaf spring perches and shock mounts and done. Is way easier than the front. Are you going coils, coilovers, or leafs up front?

Only one way to find out if it works! The speed sensor is in the t-case on the H3 and i dont know what the relationship/communication between the abs sensor and speed sensor is when it comes to the computer and electronics, im sure its stuff you can mess with in hp tuners. are you trying to...

One thing to consider with the JK or JL axles is their use of unit bearings in the front, with respect to abs. The H3 computer is 55 tooth, Jk tone rings are 52 tooth, and the tone ring is internal to the wheel bearing assembly. This would make converting to 55 tooth difficult. Now, what i don't...

I'm sure others will agree, but 5-600 hp with the already large tires the h3 has....i would seriously consider dana 60/one tons axles, i think you'll be happier long term. Gm dana 44 wms is 67.5". Stock rear is similar slightly narrower i think. Thorparts machines down the hub and presses on...

Side note. For pricing. You csn start with a few hunded dollar junkard housing, but gears/locker only...1500 easy. Chromoly axle shafts...800 or more, add a few hundred more to rebuild all of the wheel end stuff. Typical sas costs are around 10k for dana 44/stock rear, 15-20k for swapping both...

Heck yea, SAS! What's your main goal, just driving it around and mild offroading or getting into hardcore stuff? I only ask because, if it's more hardcore, just skip to one tons/dana 60 stuff right off the bat. I know you mentioned driver drop, however if you stay pass drop the gm dana 44 or...

Ill take 2 also

Ill contribute mine. Completed my own version of the SAS. Swapped the D44 and the OEM rear for one tons, Dana 60 and 14b. Also changed from coils to coilovers in the front. Learned a ton in the process about fabrication, suspension geometry etc. Lots of late nights in the garage. Somehow my...

Firestone kit is a popular one with the daystar cradle, you have to leave the bag un connected on one end so you can still flex the truck. I have air lift on my daily, no issues

Need @06 H3 and @EndeavoredH3 to chime in here as they have dealt with 6 speed swaps. You can get these transfer cases to work with a 6 speed with no recutting of the output shaft as they are passenger drop Atlas transfer case NP205 transfer case But those require levers or cables to shift...

Yea shop is going to moan and whine about the bend in the tie rod. If there is enough clearance, you can probably do a full rotation, but the you have to pick "am i ok with a little toe in or tow out". My track bar on my sas has a bend, and to adjust it i have to pull the tires, put the frame...

I would definitely try and reinforce the frame if you go to coilovers. When we do SAS we plate the frame, basically from the front body mount all the way to the rear of the front wheel well. With coilovers all of the load is now going to be up there vs spread out to the back with the T bars.

The factory t case is narrow, the torsion bars and exhaust sit both between the transmission and the frame rail, and now add a driveshaft to one side. When you go SAS the t bars are gone and it largely doesn't matter since the driveshaft doesn't really go up into the transmission like it does on...

Picked up some 40s courtesy of Josh and Geno. Little bit bigger than the 37s currently on there.

No, you have to have the BCM programmed by the dealer so all of the vin coded security stuff matches. I'm sure you can install it, but idk if everything will function correctly. I had mine replaces in 2017 for $800 at a chevy dealer, not sure what it will cost now.

Yea those bushing are shot, replace them and that should resolve you're issues. You might as well replace the ones in the leaf spring pack itself as well while you're at it.

Ive got 2 guys from out east, who will come next year