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I have not used their UCA's. But I have regularly used many of their other products, esp steering and ball joints, products. And some wheel hub assemblies...over the years. Their core business has typically been hard suspension parts, like ball joints, tie rod ends, bushings etc. That's probably...

Good info. Thanks!

Mine shows fluid temp. Yours doesn't? Or do you want to add a separate gauge? See if this helps. Good luck: https://hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/threads/transmission-temp-and-oil-pressure-sensor.11411/

THESE ought to do the trick. Or the Delphi's HERE. Delphi used to be part of GM. Who knows, might be the same as what the Delco's were. Delphi might have procured them for AC Delco??? If I was trying to get as close to the old Delco's I would think Delphi would be the next best thing. Honestly...

IDK how much it matters honestly. I think even the AC Delco's were made in China...if I remember right. But it's been a while since I bought mine. I'd probably get a brand which has a polished stud, and avoid one with a black stud. But in UT, IDK if THAT even matters. They probably won't rust...

Torque app is real popular. I would think it *should* but I haven't verified as I don't use it. But read THIS, how to do it. Be careful ..old info probably has changed as apps improve. It should say on their website I would think. Hopefully someone who uses it will chime in. There's OBDLink...

If you work on Chrysler vehicles....btw, and need more capabilities than most canners can do, consider buying AlfaOBD software. It's like $50-$60 for the software (need to buy a cable or bluetooth module ..and use your phone/tablet/PC), and does about as much as the dealer service tool (for...

The reason having the ability to do 'upgrades' is SO important, even paid (at a reasonable cost), is because scanner mfgrs add not only new vehicles, but are constantly adding features to unlock capabilities for older vehicles. I've read reports of people on forums who've been in contact with...

I wasn't intending to say the Autel product is not good. If it turns out they have improved their customer support and upgrades aren't too much...and they have a track record for allowing a pretty long upgrade path ...then I wouldn't hesitate to look at their product. Question: Are there...

Under $500, huh? If you can stretch your budget a bit, get into the $650 range, you will get into the range of greater Pro capabilities. If I were looking today, I'd probably look at the Launch 431 or higher. They have different versions of that scanner ...the Elite and PRO which are more/less...

Most engines draw the coolant from the bottom of the radiator, and return back to the radiator (from engine) via the upper hose. If it were the other way around, even being a little low on coolant, the coolant level would fall below the upper hose...and would starve an engine of coolant.

It would still be good to know IMO what the actual pressure is. Perhaps acquire an oil pressure gauge and check the pressure WHILE you are in the process of replacing the sensor. Then you know what the oil pressure actually is. Even if it's just the sensor (basically a switch)... is the engine...

Usually you can rent a compression tester for 'free' (with deposit) from OReilly's/Autozone, if you don't own one. You probably know that. But if not... That's probably what I'd do if you don't need one in the future. They might have an oil pressure tester kit too you can get w/o buying one...

It very well could have low oil pressure. It's not the brand of oil -- Valvoline is top-rated oil. Low oil pressure is pretty common on these...but usually not till closer to 200k. The other reason (in some cases) is the timing chain plastic breaks up and clogs up the oil pick-up screen usually...

I replace mine when they fail (which has never happened on my DD's) or become worn, dry or fluted... which on some of my DD vehicles with over 200k miles has been never. A guy can always pop off the driveshaft at the diff, remove a cap and inspect the U-joint trunion, and make a good call from...

That raises the questions....what's the situation on your front driveshaft? And Front Diff (Rascole)? Do you have the cast iron diff? Those might be your next weakest links to ponder over.

Any idea what they'd charge to disable the annoying TPMS?

Definitely non-greasable for strength. For longevity, the non-greasables should last as long at you own it. I've had/seen many vehicles go 150k and beyond 200k miles on original non-greasable U-joints. (incl my H3!). One the major issues with 'greasable' joints (U-joints/suspension joints)...

Good point. A 'good' scan tool with bi-directional capabilities like a GM Tech-II or Snap-On, or other "Pro" scannner, should be able to actuate the transmission solenoids and therefore determine if they're working fine (or not). If you know a buddy or shop which has one. The transmission shop...

Just curious ...have you looked on ebay?