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Agreed, this will mostly get driven by my youngest son at college. I just don’t trust that that’s gonna get done often enough. He has a lot on his plate!

Since we're on the topic of CV axles and Joints the good idea fairy has visited. In my previous life this usually resulted in the liberal application of high explosives. I'm thinking of adding a stretch-over CV boots over the factory boots as a protective/sacrificial layer. Thoughts? Should...

I ordered 2 Duralast CV Shafts. At half the price of GM shafts and the above feedback it seems like an acceptable risk. I used the code DEALS4YOU and got 20% off and free shipping. $212.90 top my doorstep. Seems like most of us have boot failure not joint failure. I'll let you know how it goes.

Where did you source your parts? I'm having trouble finding the Spicer #2-26-477 DSP H-flange (Ford type with scallops for bolt access). The non-scalloped Jeep 2-26-479 version is dime-a-dozen and less than half the prices listed for the 2-26-477 ford version. Other than the scallops on the 477...

anybody use these?

Dude, did you buy a bay at the Fort Riley MWR shop? I occupied a bay at the Fort Leavenworth MWR more times than I'd like to admit keeping our family beater minivan and 01 Suburban 2500 on the road that year. I wasn't even in the Army! Longer story there. Good work!!! Matt

Buhler, Buhler, Buhler???

boots are all cracked and leaking. Looking to for the stretchy boot thing. I just need the boot dimensions so I can order the right ones. Thinking of double booting them. Also, should I hose out the existing grease and re-grease them? Thanks!!! Matt

I didn’t read the whole thread, but I’ve had this occur a couple of times. It was a bad battery every time. New batt and full charge solved it. With good battery terminals of course!

No known hum/vib in our 08 Alpha. Front drive shafts are pretty notorious. Easy to test, pull it, put it in 4 high lock and drive it. Later! Matt

Thanks for the info! One more thing, the entire AC system was replaced 3 years ago. Ran incredibly cold in spite of being in Arizona in a hot running Alpha. I’ll have my son get it scanned. I don’t think my cheesy cheap scan tool will see the AC system. Thx!

Greetings, 2008 H3 Alpha, 125,000 ish miles. AC light blinks 3 times then goes out and no AC. I’ve checked the likely culprits. Pressures look good as best I can tell with a crappy top off bottle. I’m leaning toward the temp sensor in the evaporator core. Does anyone have any experience...

Called Hayden, worthless, just some mouth breather who looked up my vehicle in the e-catalog. "nope, no SD fan clutch for this vehicle."

Thanks!!! I learned something today! I'll be building the above discussed front driveshaft shortly. Boy was deployed and just got home, so the H3 Alpha sat except for an occasional drive for the last year. Now he's back and I'm retired, temporarily. He was going to be around, travel a bit...

Is there a Severe Duty Hayden fan clutch for the H3 Alpha??? I tried to find something on a 5.3L in the catalog but was unsuccessful. I'm in Arizona and run hot anyway so I'd prefer the Severe Duty. I used to run 1 on my 8.1L 3/5 ton Suburban in the summer. It literally ROARED, and slammed...

Oops, double post

Yeah, I figured that out. Read 12.6 volts when I put the “good battery” in. After I jumped it and ran it a few hours I checked it again and it was 1.6 volts. I’ve never seen that before. I’ll check that rear door wire passage for chafing. Thanks! PS why “Doc Olds”?

Thanks guys! I’ll chase those down! Matt

Thanks, finally just pulled my truck up and put the jumper cables on it. Everything came back to life. Turns out my “good” extra battery must have just been showing a surface charge of 12.6 volts. Once it jumpstarted I let it idle while I cleaned it up and drove it on the highway a bit. Parked...

And, Is there a shifter lock bypass? If so, where and how please? Might just try and get it in the driveway if I can’t get tit started. Thanks! Matt