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06 H3's Fabrication Corner.

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,493
Location
Meridian, ID
Awesome info scarsman! I really appreciate you taking the time to explain. It sounds like preheating will help but flux may be the way to go with axle and frame bracketry and gas with racks and smaller pieces. I wonder how the 4x4 shop I spoke to can get it done with a 175 from miller. I guess 20 years of experience, tricks and welding everyday can help a bit lol

I don't care about looks as much as good penetration. That's what matters to me.
 

Scarsman

Sponsor
Messages
1,561
Location
Monroe, WA
You bet! Definately MIG with the small stuff. Depending on what you are doing though, even flux core may not be enough for axle stuff. They can be heavy, and due to their size can really suck up the heat. Especially if you are welding on or near the heavy cast parts, like the diff and axle ends. Cast can pull the heat away like a sponge!
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,493
Location
Meridian, ID
all good points. I was considering redoing my shock mounts with flux core due to the lack of surface area for welding and I could get some more heat and penetration on the mount and axle tube. I really need to go find out how this guy is welding axle stuff with 175 amp 220V welders. I may call him, as a matter of fact he may use those for roll cages and use something bigger for axles especially seeing most of his axle work is on D60s.
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
I got a couple 4" grinders...I keep one loaded with a cut-off disc, and the other with a grinder disc. I also use flapper discs to do final clean-up. Maybe $100 for all my grinder stuff. Harbor freight grinders are absolutely useless, and I've melted several in half. I try to stick with a brand name unit (DeWalt, Bosch, Milwaukee, etc.)...and they seem to last longer. Cost for a good one is $40 or more...compared to the junk stuff at $15.

I use a Hobart 210MVP MIG wire-feed welder...and its a been a great one (around $900 online). The MVP stands for "multi-voltage-plug" which is a nice feature, even though I always use 220V. I put a gas kit on it and use standard solid core wire, instead of the flux-core it came with. I've tried flux-core on numerous welders...and all I ever get is a nasty mess! Pay attention to duty-cycle when shopping for a welder....that's what you're paying for.

My Plasma Cutter is a Thermal Dynamics-Cutmaster 42. ($1100 online). Its a good piece but, occasionally it acts up. I believe this is my fault, and has much to do with tip selection and my cutting technique. This is also a 220V machine, and it likes 80psi of air. This is the smallest one they make that doesn't have a built-in compressor. It will cut 1/2" plate...but not real pretty. It will cut 1/4" and 3/16" plate very nicely and that's the bulk of what I cut for bumpers, skids, and such. Tips and electrodes are expensive...and after a year or so of owning it, I finally bought a stand-off head for the gun. This seems to make the tips last much longer, and also makes a better cut. Plasma cutting is the only way to cut steel. True...that's all it does. But it does it so well! And yes...I installed a Miller filter/dryer ($75) on the incoming air line, just like someone recommended.

I have a buddy that I borrow an Oxy/Acetylene rig from. Its a craigslist special...two bottles on a cart for $75. It works for heating stuff up, and making nasty junkyard cuts. Its small and does the job. I don't know much about it.

This equipment is very compact and I used them to do my SAS and SOA with no problems at all. I still use them for building custom, one-off parts here at my home shop. However, all of the THORparts stuff is manufactured elsewhere, and they are done on computerized laser-beds, formed, and welded by guys that do that for a living. I'm getting ready to re-tube a high-pinion Dana 44 pumpkin, and I might run that up to the pros and have them do the welding for me. Like Scarsman says...certain jobs require more equipment and experience than I have.
 
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MaxPF

AGNTSA
Messages
1,394
Location
The dark side of the globe
Awesome info scarsman! I really appreciate you taking the time to explain. It sounds like preheating will help but flux may be the way to go with axle and frame bracketry and gas with racks and smaller pieces. I wonder how the 4x4 shop I spoke to can get it done with a 175 from miller. I guess 20 years of experience, tricks and welding everyday can help a bit lol

I don't care about looks as much as good penetration. That's what matters to me.

all good points. I was considering redoing my shock mounts with flux core due to the lack of surface area for welding and I could get some more heat and penetration on the mount and axle tube. I really need to go find out how this guy is welding axle stuff with 175 amp 220V welders. I may call him, as a matter of fact he may use those for roll cages and use something bigger for axles especially seeing most of his axle work is on D60s.

I know many will disagree, but I have never felt that Lincoln machines were as capable as Millers. Either Lincoln overrates their machines, or Miller underrates theirs. I use a Miller Challenger 172 and it will easily weld 1/2" on full power. Duty cycle is short, but for welding 3/8" thick brackets onto 3/8"-1/2" thick axle tubes it easily does the job. If I am willing to run a multi-pass bead I can go heavier yet, but the duty cycle becomes a big limitation. FWIW, I recently replaced the stock hose/gun assembly with a new one off of a Miller 252 and it works MUCH better due to it's larger, lower resistance inner conductor. I also replaced the contactor which made a huge improvement in weld quality. If your machine has a lot of miles on it, consider similar maintenance.

FWIW I run the following equipment:

Miller Challenger 172 MIG (.035" solid ER70S-6, 75-25 Ar/CO2 gas)
Miller Synchrowave 200 TIG (straight argon for everything)
Hypertherm Powermax 350 plasma cutter

This equipment is enough for anything I have ever needed to do on my truck, Todd's Jeep, or any other vehicles I have worked on. If I were doing this for a living I would want a Miller 252 MIG and a Dynasty 350 TIG machine, but they are expensive overkill for home shop duty.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,493
Location
Meridian, ID
I use 4 1/2 angle grinders brand is makita and I love it! Cuts anything I need it to cut all day long. I want oxy setup next

I have had many friends with 110s to 220s and all have said it just doesn't feel right when welding thicker materials we all agree something just doesn't feel right with the welder? I am wondering if something's wrong or a lack of power. I may have to upgrade eventually seeing I do axle work and frame/bracket welding
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
06...For sure get a 220V welder & shielding gas, if you see yourself doing a lot of frame & bracketry work. I had to install a new breaker and welder outlet for mine. That wire is crazy expensive but, fortunately I only had to go about 15 feet from my panel. I also bought a 25-foot extension cord, made specifically for welding. It was equally pricey but, now I can go anywhere in my shop with the plasma or welder.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,493
Location
Meridian, ID
The problem is that it is a 220v and had an outlet put in the garage just not getting hot enough with gas...ill play around with the welder a bit and see how it goes
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,493
Location
Meridian, ID
SON OF A BITCH! Have I really been welding for the past 1 1/2 years without switching the polarity on the damn welder when switching over to shielded gas?!?! Would that cause bizarre welding problems?
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
Oh yeah...most definitely. Most welders require you to take an eyelet off one stud and put it on another inside the cabinet, when you add a gas kit.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,493
Location
Meridian, ID
That really deserves 10 hits to the head...I cant believe I have been welding like that for the past 1 1/2 years. No wonder why I liked flux core better.

I think this goes right up there with almost letting a 5500lb H3 rolling over my leg during my spring over project.
 

Scarsman

Sponsor
Messages
1,561
Location
Monroe, WA
That's funny! I was laying in bed last night before going to sleep thinking about welders and status like that, and it crossed my mind if you had switched it. I didn't have time to post the question this morning before work, and now I get on and there you are! Maybe I sent you a telepathic message! You'll be amazed how much better out works now!

Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,493
Location
Meridian, ID
nope I have been busy and I need some more wire hopefully I will try it out within the next few days.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,493
Location
Meridian, ID
man o man! What a difference, I switched to .30 wire for the smaller metal I was welding, had my tank of gas back (finally got a new regulator) and set up the polarity correctly.

I made some windshield light brackets for my brothers friends TJ.





Penetration through the back side after the first weld.



Finished up



I love welding so much more now, I cant believe I used it the wrong way the past 1 1/2 years. By far the dumbest move on my part
 

bebe

Moderator
Messages
1,375
Location
Dayton, NV
All I see is that your material needs to be prepped better, you have too much splatter :) Other than that it looks GREAT!!
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,493
Location
Meridian, ID
Alright ill take more time to do that. Penetration and weld quality look and feel better. I'm getting that sizzling bacon sound now. Now that I know what was wrong I may pull out everything and reweld my spring over components. I know it's held up fine for a year now but just for a piece of mind I may do it knowing that the welds will be stronger and better.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,493
Location
Meridian, ID
alright bebe, hows this?

Its from ruff stuff so that must count for something...:)





Its the ruffstuff tie rod kit. My brother bent his tie rod on his JK because they are piles of **** and are ridiculously weak. He was looking around and saw that the beefy stuff was anywhere from 200-260 bucks. I looked on ruffstuffs site and found a tie rod kit which required you to cut the 1/5x.25 wall DOM tubing to the length you need and weld in the bungs. The tie rod ends are GM 1 tons, which are huge sitting next to the puny factory JK TRE's. Cut it length welded it in length is perfect, now he needs an alignment. Its close to perfect but seeing I went off of a bent tie rod its probably a tad off.

BEEFY


Now he just has to paint it tomorrow



So all in all it was so worth it, stronger then all the other stuff and stronger tie rod ends, most use TREs similar to stock size and best of all it was way cheaper, $150 shipped!!!

I love ruffstuff! I am actually thinking that I may take out his TRE and see if it fits in my knuckle. If it does then order some DOM tubing and use the TRE on the knuckle end and a heim with a clevis on the stock end. I just need to find a clevis...Then I will have an extremely bulletproof setup for steering with my rack clamp, bushings and tie rods.

The biggest downside is that the OEM steering stabilizer clamp is too small in diameter for the Ruff Stuff tie rod so he needs to order a bigger one but thats minor and still worth it.
 
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