2006 H3 Cold air intake

[crwalkerasla]

I'm running a K&N on my '06. I added foam pipe insulation around the opening in the divider wall, as much as a heat block as it was to stop the vibration of the intake pipe in the hole. I noticed a modest improvement in response afterwards, and I clean the filter 1x/yr, usually around Labor Day when the Saturdays are a bit cooler here in Mississippi.

 

[650Hawk]

I run a K&N filter in my stock Alpha airbox, along with a DIY air doc style intake.

 

[Chimpy]

Just finished installing a volant cold air intake. Man o Man what a difference!!!!

View attachment 32855

I just bought a low mileage 06 and it has this same Volant CAI on it. What is the part number for the replacement filter? I have been on the Volant site and this CAI for the H3 shows discontinued. Thanks

 

[zebra]

ok that explains why it looks nothing like the 3.7

highly doubt the 3.7 is any better !! i have to shift down on the hwy for any big hill

¿que?! a 3.5 & 3.7 look exactly the same.
the only difference is 2.5mm bigger bore, correcting the 3.5's head deficiency, and an extra 22h/17tq.

they were both under-powered, but downshifting is all relative. even the alphas downshift on hills... so do i in my 700hp car... and shoot, my cummins makes almost 1400ft/lb of torque, and i still downshift for the 6% grade i live at the top of. and speaking of that climb, my wife's stock h3 makes it up at 60-67mph if she drops to 4th gear (and that's on bigger 34" tires with just a tune).

I just bought a low mileage 06 and it has this same Volant CAI on it. What is the part number for the replacement filter? I have been on the Volant site and this CAI for the H3 shows discontinued. Thanks

quick search of a couple vendors shows VOL5120 as the replacement filter.

 

[Chimpy]

¿que?! a 3.5 & 3.7 look exactly the same.
the only difference is 2.5mm bigger bore, correcting the 3.5's head deficiency, and an extra 22h/17tq.

they were both under-powered, but downshifting is all relative. even the alphas downshift on hills... so do i in my 700hp car... and shoot, my cummins makes almost 1400ft/lb of torque, and i still downshift for the 6% grade i live at the top of. and speaking of that climb, my wife's stock h3 makes it up at 60-67mph if she drops to 4th gear (and that's on bigger 34" tires with just a tune).

quick search of a couple vendors shows VOL5120 as the replacement filter.

Thank you

 

[Chimpy]

¿que?! a 3.5 & 3.7 look exactly the same.
the only difference is 2.5mm bigger bore, correcting the 3.5's head deficiency, and an extra 22h/17tq.

they were both under-powered, but downshifting is all relative. even the alphas downshift on hills... so do i in my 700hp car... and shoot, my cummins makes almost 1400ft/lb of torque, and i still downshift for the 6% grade i live at the top of. and speaking of that climb, my wife's stock h3 makes it up at 60-67mph if she drops to 4th gear (and that's on bigger 34" tires with just a tune).

quick search of a couple vendors shows VOL5120 as the replacement filter.

Thank you

¿que?! a 3.5 & 3.7 look exactly the same.
the only difference is 2.5mm bigger bore, correcting the 3.5's head deficiency, and an extra 22h/17tq.

they were both under-powered, but downshifting is all relative. even the alphas downshift on hills... so do i in my 700hp car... and shoot, my cummins makes almost 1400ft/lb of torque, and i still downshift for the 6% grade i live at the top of. and speaking of that climb, my wife's stock h3 makes it up at 60-67mph if she drops to 4th gear (and that's on bigger 34" tires with just a tune).

quick search of a couple vendors shows VOL5120 as the replacement filter.

Thanks for the info.

 

[zebra]

Thank you

Thank you

Thanks for the info.

you're welcome




no problem




... and any time; that's why we're here

 

[Exodus]

¿que?! a 3.5 & 3.7 look exactly the same.
the only difference is 2.5mm bigger bore, correcting the 3.5's head deficiency, and an extra 22h/17tq.

they were both under-powered, but downshifting is all relative. even the alphas downshift on hills... so do i in my 700hp car... and shoot, my cummins makes almost 1400ft/lb of torque, and i still downshift for the 6% grade i live at the top of. and speaking of that climb, my wife's stock h3 makes it up at 60-67mph if she drops to 4th gear (and that's on bigger 34" tires with just a tune).

quick search of a couple vendors shows VOL5120 as the replacement filter.

no idea what you're talking about,, only other time in history i had to shift down in any of my previous vehicles was when i over loadedx

700hp that has to shift down !! come on really !! now you just trolling

 

[zebra]

no idea what you're talking about,, only other time in history i had to shift down in any of my previous vehicles was when i over loadedx

700hp that has to shift down !! come on really !! now you just trolling

for reference: the specific example i gave is for a 3mi 6% grade with a 65mph speed limit.

my dodge: 20psi of boost at 1700rpm in 6th gear results in EGTs 100° higher than 10psi at just over 2000rpm in 5th. that increases how long i have to sit and idle in the driveway while it cools down so i don't cook the oil in the turbos. it ain't for lack of power - it's for taking care of my engine.

my corvette: 6th gear would put me at 1300rpm and needing 5-7psi of boost up that same grade. that's a quick way to overload the tiny double-overdrive gear in the transmission and to also lug / knock the engine (potentially blowing a piston) - especially since my cam don't come alive until at least 2000rpm. 5th gear puts me just over 2000rpm and lets me pull the grade with a couple inches of vacuum. going down to 4th gear is 2750rpm and pulls ~10in vacuum... but uses more gas.

my wife's H3: given our altitude (~4000ft) and the 3.7's anemia, if she gets a running start & downshifts to 4th (3200rpm), she can make it up at WOT and only lose speed down to 60mph (3000rpm). try that in 5th (2150rpm), and you'll fall on your face finding yourself down in 3rd gear trying to accelerate back up to 55mph because the atlas engines need 3000+ for peak torque.

if you've only got a two-pedal model, i guarantee yours is doing this for you (or at the very least - unlocking the torque converter [which is the same as slipping the clutch]) whether you leave the lever in D or not. you moving to 3 or 2 simply prevents it from going to a higher gear.

what else would you like clarification on?

 

[zebra]

another situation i've found is that even on flat interstate around here, we sometimes get 50-60mph wind. if it's in the face, we find ourselves dropping the H3 to 4th just to hold 65mph (because it's the aerodynamic equivalent of trying to drive 100+).

 

[Exodus]

another situation i've found is that even on flat interstate around here, we sometimes get 50-60mph wind. if it's in the face, we find ourselves dropping the H3 to 4th just to hold 65mph (because it's the aerodynamic equivalent of trying to drive 100+).

ok ok so you're the smartest guy in the room,, happy now

 

[zebra]

ok ok so you're the smartest guy in the room,, happy now

never claimed to be all that bright... i just understand how transmissions work in addition to how an engine's powerband affects the way it responds to different loads.

for the circumstance at-hand: going uphill increases workload, and if you're at too low of an rpm to make the necessary torque, you have two options:
1. downshift (and/or unlock the torque converter) so the rpms go up
2. slow down until the load matches the engine's capability

in the underpowered H3: an automatic transmission will do #1 for you unless you do #2 on your own... otherwise #2 will happen whether you like it or not in either transmission.

 

[650Hawk]

Zebra,

I'm curious...where did you find a 5-speed 4L60E trans?

 

[zebra]

downshifting (and the reasons to do it) apply to both automatics and manuals.
the only difference is in how that action is accomplished.

i ain't so retarded as to conflate the AR5 and the 4L60 - both of which were factory-installed in H3s.

 

[zebra]

ps (to circle back to the OP's topic): a cold air intake and/or resonator box delete won't create enough of a power bump to alleviate the need to downshift up a significant hill... which is what started the whole side-track.

 

[650Hawk]

downshifting (and the reasons to do it) apply to both automatics and manuals.
the only difference is in how that action is accomplished.

i ain't so retarded as to conflate the AR5 and the 4L60 - both of which were factory-installed in H3s.

I'm not retarded either. But you never clarified that you were talking about the manual (which is relatively rare in H3's), so...

 

[zebra]

apologies if references to "downshifting to 4th" didn't solidify that ours is a 5speed... of which, there were no 5speed automatics.
and H3s did have a higher percentage of manuals than most other models, so i wouldn't consider it that rare (except H3Ts... those were pretty rare).

either way: my point is that manual or automatic transmission doesn't matter. both will need to downshift to go up a significant hill at highway speed; therefore, i described what happens & why for either transmission.

 

[zebra]

the biggest difference is that an automatic WILL downshift when it needs to whether you ask it to or not.

also, this whole side-bar was simply meant to show that there are more reasons to downshift than just because you ain't got enough power.
H3s ain't got enough power - that's true... but using downshifting as a metric to determine they're underpowered is inaccurate logic.

 

[650Hawk]

I'm not sure why you're stuck on this. As I said, "most" H3's were indeed auto, and your post never clarified that your wife's H3 was a manual. I just was unsure whether you were talking about an actual downshift or a "shift" from a locked torque converter to unlocked, and was looking for clarification, in a slightly tongue-in-cheek way.

As for your comments about downshifting...auto or manual...downshifting is indeed done when you are "underpowered" for the conditions at hand, regardless of vehicle/HP/etc. Pretty sure everyone here is well aware of how/why downshifting is necessary. Also pretty sure that everyone here is well aware of the fact that the I5 engine (3.5 or 3.7) is somewhat underpowered for a 5,000lb truck, and that hills tax that engine, especially if towing.

 

[zebra]

valid points - except that auto or manual doesn't matter. unlocking the torque converter is just a precursor to downshifting if the vehicle has an auto.

what i meant about how downshifting is not an accurate measure of power is that both my car and truck make plenty more power than necessary, but i still need to downshift for engine longevity because they don't have to work as hard at higher RPM. both of them are manuals, too, but automatics would do the same. frankly, considering statements like that to be "trolling" is ignorant - not necessarily malicious, just uninformed.

you know what? it just hit me! like the old geometry class adage goes, "all squares are rectangles, but not all rectangles are squares"... "being underpowered requires downshifting, but not all downshifts are because it's underpowered". that better?

 

[rascole]

 

[alrock]

ok ok so you're the smartest guy in the room,, happy now

There's some good discussion in here, and some, uh, well, Rascole captured it properly with his GIF. I think some well intentioned comments and opinions didn't convey well across the Internet. All I ask is that when we counterpoint or argue an idea - which is more than welcome - to please focus (question, clarify, criticize, praise) on the idea and not the person writing it. For example, that's a really good GIF Rascole posted, but I'm not saying he's a really good guy for posting it. (He's a great guy!)

FWIW, there are some modest appearance differences between a pre 2007.5 I5 and the post 2007.5 engines. They changed the airbox, the washer and antifreeze bottles and maybe a couple other things to create parts that could be used on both the Alpha and the I5. So at a quick glance, a 2007.5 I5 (the 3.7)does share similarities with an Alpha, and does look different than a 3.5 or an earlier 3.7.

 

[EndeavoredH3]

I’m just here for the 2006 cold air intake.

 

[zebra]

Mucho apologize-o if I misunderstood the original comments Exodus made about engine appearance. Rather than referencing minor differences in fluid tanks, airbox, etc... it appeared as if he was saying this 2006 3.5

looks drastically different than this 2008 3.7

(...neither of which look like this 2008 5.3)

That's all I meant on that front.

 

[zebra]

PS: Am I the only one who don't see the point of these aftermarket 3.5" or 4" intake tubes? Everything I've found on the market still necks down to the stock 2.5" MAF tube... so you still end up with the same bottleneck. Sure, changing the MAF tube size requires recalibration... but most people modding engines do that anyway - so why not actually make the up-sized tubing worth something?