H3 Axle seals

[awalsh]

Just want to clarify something.. Axle seals were leaking badly but the new crossmember bushing really helped out a lot. Just had my drivers side wheel hub replaced and the shop told me that they would need to put a new wheel hub in the passenger side since they need to disconnect it to put in a new axle seal. Is this true? I thought you could just disconnect the steering knuckle and pull out the cv to replace the seals. I don't want to spend $400 on labor and have to buy a new wheel hub for the passenger side even though it isn't bad. Or could they mean that the cv is most likely frozen into the wheel hub not mattering if it needs to be replaced or not. Input is appreciated!


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[Burtor]

I replaced the passenger axle seal on my truck two weeks ago.
I [STRIKE]had to [/STRIKE]removed the wheel hub assembly, and the upper control arm ball stud from the front knuckle in order to pull the cv axle out just far enough to get it to clear.
[STRIKE]So yes, you need to remove the wheel hub, but[/STRIKE] I'm not sure why they feel the need to replace it.

Annoyingly, both getting the upper control arm disconnected and removing the wheel hub required a bunch of hammering.
Use a slide hammer to remove the wheel hub.
Use a wooden plank propped underneath the upper control arm to hold it up so you can hammer down on the knuckle to get it to separate once you remove the pinch bolt. I also used a pry bar to help separate the clamped upper control arm.

EDIT: I guess its not necessary to remove the hub to get the CV out. I didn't remove the sway bar links though, and I felt like I ran out of room, but I also hear that's not required either.

 

[awalsh]

I replaced the passenger axle seal on my truck two weeks ago.
I had to remove the wheel hub assembly, and the upper control arm ball stud from the front knuckle in order to pull the cv axle out just far enough to get it to clear.
So yes, you need to remove the wheel hub, but I'm not sure why they feel the need to replace it.

Annoyingly, both getting the upper control arm disconnected and removing the wheel hub required a bunch of hammering.
Use a slide hammer to remove the wheel hub.
Use a wooden plank propped underneath the upper control arm to hold it up so you can hammer down on the knuckle to get it to separate once you remove the pinch bolt. I also used a pry bar to help separate the clamped upper control arm.

My wheel hub (just replaced) was frozen in the steering knuckle. Air hammers and tons of pbblaster finally got it out. I'm guessing I'll just have them do this job later in the week since I don't have time to mess with it before I go back to school. They said the old wheel hub will most likely be destroyed after they pry it out


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[lowtrac]

You don't have to remove the hub from the steering knuckle to replace a CV / axle seal. Pulling the axle nut, disconnecting the outer tie rod end from the knuckle, separating the knuckle from the upper ball joint and unhooking the ABS sensor wiring and brake line from their respective clips/mount is all that is required. The only reason I'd see it being necessary to replace the hub would be if the outer splines on the CV were stuck in the splines in the hub and the hub was damaged trying to get them separated.

 

[lowtrac]

This picture shows the sway bar end link disconnected, but the second time I swapped CV axles I didn't disconnect it so it's not required.


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[awalsh]

You don't have to remove the hub from the steering knuckle to replace a CV / axle seal. Pulling the axle nut, disconnecting the outer tie rod end from the knuckle, separating the knuckle from the upper ball joint and unhooking the ABS sensor wiring and brake line from their respective clips/mount is all that is required. The only reason I'd see it being necessary to replace the hub would be if the outer splines on the CV were stuck in the splines in the hub and the hub was damaged trying to get them separated.

I'm guessing that is the reason they said I might need a new hub for the passenger side. It was only $60 off eBay for a new one (went the cheap route) but I'm more worried about mechanics time being $95/hr at the shop I trust


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[08H3]

I'm guessing that is the reason they said I might need a new hub for the passenger side. It was only $60 off eBay for a new one (went the cheap route) but I'm more worried about mechanics time being $95/hr at the shop I trust


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You'll regret going the cheap route on the hub in about 15,000 miles.

 

[woodwardsh3]

You'll regret going the cheap route on the hub in about 15,000 miles.

I agree a 100% skip lunch don't go cheep on the hub

 

[JPaul]

Like others have said, it's unnecessary work to replace the hub if it doesn't really need it. I replaced my seals the same time I was replacing my diff bushings and I only unhooked the tie rod and upper ball joint and was able to pry the axle out of the hub without too much fuss. Would've been easier if I wasn't jacking it up by the lower control arm, but I don't have a larger jack, just the little 2 ton floor jack everyone and their dog owns. The only thing you're supposed to replace is the axle nut because that's supposed to be a one time use item. Though I'll admit that I reused mine because I didn't know this before hand, but it's easy enough to buy new ones and replace them later without even having to pull the wheel off.

And with our vehicles it's definitely not a good idea to cheap out on parts. I'm amazed at how poor of quality all the cheaper parts are, and probably because of how heavy our H3's are and the amount of stress they are subjected to both on and off road using a cheap part is almost guaranteed to cause you trouble in a very short amount of time. It is well worth the extra money to use GM parts or other high quality replacement parts (even then you're best off sticking with genuine GM). This is everything from door handles to axles to seals to mirrors and beyond. It's expensive, but they will last far longer than the cheaper parts coming out of China and whatnot.

 

[awalsh]

You'll regret going the cheap route on the hub in about 15,000 miles.

Didn't have any other choice just because of college coming up quick.. Will be replacing with oem hubs in the future


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[rascole]

You'll be fine as long as you keep it on the road and off the trail. Should easily last a year or so.

 

[awalsh]

You'll be fine as long as you keep it on the road and off the trail. Should easily last a year or so.

Not planning on wheeling anytime soon just for that reason.. As much as I love wheeling I hate spending money I don't have


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