Blew a steering seal wheeling today... need to get to MOAB!!!!!

[backcountryislife]

Ok, went wheelin by the house today, quick little jaunt... and blew my seal at the pass. side tie rod. WHen alignment was done, they twisted the heck out of the boot... and now it's trash, and in turn... cost me a seal. Pricey alignment!

SO, looking for best options!

Don't see a lot on rebuilds, but there's some new ones out there for cheap.

In this

[video=youtube;90qN1t1sSjU]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=90qN1t1sSjU[/video]

he says they're for 2006-2010

But in his ebay auction it says 08-2010...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HUMMER-H3-R...ies&hash=item48440dec98&vxp=mtr#ht_500wt_1081


Any reason NOT to go with these?

Also, any idea how tough it is to pull it?

Was planning on heading to Moab on thursday afternoon, and the truck is going to the dealer for warranty work on tuesday... leaves me one/ 1.5 day. Pretty tight.

Any ideas I'm open to, what crappy timing!!

Looks like these guys have them for the same price (after core) but with the 14mm tie rods...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CARDONE-22-...mer&hash=item27c5ac7ded&vxp=mtr#ht_1517wt_931

Seems like that's more likely to make it to me in a few days... The work looks easy aside from disconnecting the steering shaft, trying to decide if I should just do it myself, seems like making sure the wheels are aligned is my biggest concern. I can match length though I suppose before I even put it on?

 

[Pappibri]

I think there is a post about them already on the site.. Someone, said that you can tell what tie rod ends they are by the color I believe.. just do a search.. It seems to me they were 16 mm and that they said they would work on the 06-10, but I can be wrong...

 

[backcountryislife]

yeah, looks like the 16's will work, saw the other thread, but nobody said they actually ordered them. I think with the time I've got I'm stuck with getting the smaller ones (14mm)

There's a $100 core charge, comes to $70ish after shipping... is it worth keeping my tie rods for that much $$? Not sure if it's worth holding them for trail spares or not. Can't take a chance I don't think on getting the ones from Canada, I NEED to make it to moab this week

 

[Hunner]

The boot really did not have anything to do with the leak. It was a seal at the end of the rack and the fluid leaked into the boot.
I would however check the two hydraulic lines connected to the rack.
Dealers usually sell the entire "steering gear assembly" for around $350 or less. If they happen to have one or can get them in a couple of days. I think at this point those will all be with 16mm.
The 16mm are black. The 14mm are silver.
The rack is the same.
There was no core charge for those from a dealer but if it is under warranty they want the old one to collect from GM.
I don't believe the ones in Canada required a core and had 16mm.
MOST IMPORTANT!! Tie off your steering wheel securely BEFORE removing the lower bolt that attaches to the rack and steering shaft from the steering wheel. Long story but you will have problems with the stabiltrac if you don't.
The tiny bolt unscrews from both sides of the clevis. So don't try to pry it out. Just unscrew from one side and pull on it and unscrew again. Use locktite to re-assemble.
It's not too hard to replace after that. Two bolts on driver side to frame and two bolts that hold the clamp on the pass side.
If your good you can install it with the tie rods in place saving some work. It comes with them connected.
If you adjust the tie rods to the same length as your old ones you will be sort of close on alignment. However it is best to have and alignment unless you can just adjust toe by measuring front and back of the tires across the vehicle to get even closer until you can get an alignment.
If the steering wheel is crooked you have to go back and adjust one tie rod in and one out. Hard to describe in a short post but you can do it.
http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?2116-steering-rack&highlight=steering+rack

It would be a good time to install one of my sleeve bushings, if I had any!

Check that pass side rubber bushing to see what it looks like. A new one comes with the rack from a dealer, I don' know about the other sources.

 

[j3jackson]

Great info Hunner

 

[backcountryislife]

The boot really did not have anything to do with the leak. It was a seal at the end of the rack and the fluid leaked into the boot.

But if the boot was trashed & open, wouldn't the introduction of road material be a factor in the life of the seal? Purely academic now anyhow, but I just assumed that at least contributed.


Thanks for the info man, VERY helpful! I assumed that dealers would be way more... for only a $100 difference or so, it might be worth getting one from them.

Wish you were coming to Moab, I'm looking to pick up some skids from you this summer, would have been nice to put a name to a face!!:thumbs:

Thanks again man... got a few options, I'll have this figured out by about 9am on monday how I'm going about it!

 

[Hunner]

Yea a damaged boot over time would allow water and dirt in there but I thought you just had an alignment and then noticed the leak? I guess I missed the time line on how long that interval was.
Parts is parts if your desperate. There is a dealer in Salt Lake City that is used to fixing Moab broke Hummers, maybe they stock a rack. That is at least over that way and maybe only a day to ship on a bus.
Heck I bought an airline ticket for a clutch for an MGB when we were at Road Atlanta!

I wish I was already in Moab but my project got delayed several times and the family was first. We are in the Arkansas tornado alley and I'm the contractor for this job here at the house. Maybe have to shoot for October this year at Moab.
Progress!
Still have to pour a slab Monday and frame it in to the house.
Boring but important, just bad timing. It's killing me. I petted the H3 this morning and tried to console it...........
I thought it was crying but it was AC evaporator condensation.

Back to the important stuff, get that thing fixed and send up pictures in Moab. I have not seen any from those guys yet!!
I posted some the first day when I went.
If you get into it and have any problems post up and "maybe" I can help. Been there dun that many times when researching the tie rod project.

 

[backcountryislife]

Alignment was in sept maybe, couple weeks before moab... she drove it all winter (15 mi/ day at about 9000 feet) so even with our PATHETIC winter... it was some abuse. After the alignment I noticed it was pretty twisted up after he aligned it, but it was complete... this spring it was completely ripped off. I never drive it unless wheeling so I forget about checking the thing.


AS to that bomb shelter you're making there... looks like you just need to hire a faster contractor:wink: I speak spanish, if you need some ayuda...llamame!! [FONT=arial, helvetica, clean, sans-serif]I can find you some helpers that are, well... mas rapido! [/FONT] (I'm a PM for a drywall company, shoot, some of my guys would just about drive to Ar-Kansas just to help on that with how bad it is in the mountains right now!)

 

[Hunner]

With all my messing around with the Bullet Proof tie rods I had some problems figuring out how to mount some modified boots and drove for a while with some that did not seal very well. The seal does not leak so I guess I got lucky.
I have heard of a couple of people that do not go offroad that have had the rack seal fail. So whatever the cause, I hope you can repair it in time to go.

The subs are great, hard workers, it's the weather that has slowed the process down. The group has a spokesman and we get along fine.
Next step is framing and the roof and I already know those guys, they live close by.
Arkansas seems to have lots of construction right now.

 

[backcountryislife]

Well... don't think I can get any of them here in time or close, and the dealer is really high $500+... trying salvage yards, and a few have colorados, but no H3's in Denver they claim.

It's a different part number for the CO... any idea if maybe that's just a different tie rod? Mine are still good, I COULD just swap rods if that was the case.


I can get a CO rack for $150 local, slap it in easy.... just not sure it's the right part!

 

[alrock]

We were wondering the same thing here (Tbone trashed his rack) but none of us had that answer. May want to check the Colorado forums

 

[Neo]

we had a 13 hour day on cliffhanger yesterday swapping out a rack in a H3t , thank god T-Bone had a spare rack on board or we would still be out there ...

 

[06 H3]

I started to look at some Colorado forums last night. Found some stuff but not much. I will do more searching around when I get home.

Hunner, after hearing about the cliffhanger run yesterday I am putting in a new one(from the ebay guy) and will look into the 2nd mounting point you did on the 06...luckily he had a rack with him but I feel there is no reason why I should be wheeling with the fear of breaking a rack...diffs and axleshafts are common on all vehicles and is a common break but I feel I should have a piece of mind with that rack.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

 

[Hunner]

we had a 13 hour day on cliffhanger yesterday swapping out a rack in a H3t , thank god T-Bone had a spare rack on board or we would still be out there ...

Did that include running the trail or that long to change a rack??

I'm looking for a comparison but I think the front suspension was different on the Colorado. I was looking for a cross over as well at one point and seems the tie rods and knuckles are different.
I would think the GM dealer there in Moab could look that up or F5?
Ya'll be careful out there and take it easy on those Hummers! No Hummer abuse!:no:

 

[backcountryislife]

Just got one shipped from the guy in Ontario (talking about selling one to "some guy" who was on the hummer forums )

The one I had ordered yesterday finally screwed me this AM saying they didn't have what they sold me (A-holes) so I just went to him & got it shipped 2 day. Should have done that yesterday & likely could have saved $75.

I'm tempted to call him back & have him ship two of them if they're that common of a failure!!!

Also just glad we'll be doing this in a GARAGE, instead of on a cliff!!!:whaa:

 

[Hunner]

It's more fun in the mud!

 

[backcountryislife]

HA!!! I'm gonna go ahead & leave that for you!!!

Now I'm just hoping it shows up in time to get me out the door to Utardia on time...

 

[backcountryislife]

Part showed up today... OVERNIGHT from out of country, truck will be ready tomorrow!! Get an alignment & head to MOAB!! WHOOHOO!

 

[backcountryislife]

well... got it all done, got it aligned & it is now telling me abs/ traction failure. Won't go into 4L... no point in going to Moab without 4low.

SOOOO frustrated right now, I went through hell to get this done today, and when I show up the wheel was tied, but not very tight...

Service depts are all closed... this sucks!

 

[Neo]

oh Kaleb thats a bummer man , thanks for the heads up .

 

[backcountryislife]

Any ideas on how to fix this? I'd sure prefer not to waste the days off... I'm loaded & ready to go... but not much point without low range.

 

[Hunner]

If the wheel did not free spin and just moved a little I mean less that a 1/4 turn it could just be mad at you, lol
Ok try the disconnect the battery trick for several minutes and see what happens.
In the pm you did not mention the wheel WAS tied so maybe that is not what is causing the problem.
Also maybe pull the Stabiltrack fuse, I think there is one, I'm not where I can look and fetgit! Then replace it if the battery disconnect does not work.
Damn electronics.
Make sure one of the drive select buttons is not stuck part way or is not fully engaged.

 

[backcountryislife]

Never did get it working. Took it to the dealer & they charged me a bit, but couldn't get the code to go away.

Tried every battery trick, tried everything anyone could come up with... nada.

Spent the weekend in Moab without 4lo... learned JUST how important low range is!! Even the first 1/2 of fins & things is more interesting with 35's & no low range!!

Fun weekend, left at 3:30 yesterday morning, and just got done making dinner at home and the truck is already dropped off at the dealer!

 

[Hunner]

Sorry nothing helped. I learned the hard way on mine. I was surprised when I disconnected the shaft and it spun right out of my hand. Don't know why unless the wheel is not balanced when level. I had to go in and have them reset the stabliltrack sensor position indicator in the column.
I wish in your case that could have been prevented.
Let us know if they figure it out what it was.

 

[backcountryislife]

FYI, dealer is saying the issue has nothing to do with the work, (unless mech hit it) he's saying the wheel speed sensor is bad. $600+ to fix.

I'm not even sure where the heck the wheel speed sensor IS!!!