4. Stick with the original drive shaft.1. Jack up the front wheels. Un-bolt the front u-joint from the diff, and rotate the yoke 180 degrees...then bolt it back up. Test drive.
2. Jack up the front wheels. Un-bolt the rear cardan from the t-case, and rotate it 90 degrees...then bolt it back up. Test drive.
3. Try inserting various thicknesses of washers under the nose on the diff (between the crossmember and the pumpkin), to change the pinion angle. Test drive.
although that is certainly always an option after having had a replacement boot tear within 8 weeks of mainly freeway driving I'm leery of going that route. Who knows, maybe the GM engineers put the original drive line in for a reason. Then again, maybe not. Dunno. I'm no engineer. Just trying to find the best most reliable solution and would really rather not have to wipe out a crap ton of grease off the bottom of my rig a third time..4. Stick with the original drive shaft.
I agree, my 3 rarely sees anything above 65, never really in much of a hurry.Yes that is an option. I think the stock CV joint is acceptable, AS LONG AS IT STAYS LUBED. The problem is the boot. Once the boot rips...the joint quickly fails soon after. The design seems to account for this as it looks like the "cup" is intended to protect the boot. But it doesn't work.
I'm not aware of any t-case or diff failures that can be proven to be caused by long-tern use of a cardan. Not on Hummers, Jeeps, or anything else. I think the vibe "feels" much worse than it actually is. It's a "harmonics" situation and not really due to something being lop-sided or out of balance.
At all times. It is at all speeds as well which leads me to believe it is the double cardan. Because it is a new sound is why it is of concern. But I'm not overly concerned, if was transferred to the body I would be. Did my pictures show up or is the site still acting up?When u guys talk about noise is it noise on deceleration?