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Engine oil issues

persius1

Well-Known Member
Messages
103
Location
Phoenix, AZ
I have noticed that the last couple of oil changes has resulted in less than 6 qts of oil draining into my pan. More like 3-4 qts is what I'm getting even though I fill up with the standard 6 qts. There are times my oil light flashes for a few seconds with the chime when I'm coming to a stop. When that happens I'll check the oil level to find its low. Somehow the oil is burning up. I'm no mechanic but will do most things myself. Only problem here is I have no idea where to start. Any suggestions? Is this happening to anyone else's H3?


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SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
oil leaks happen a lot on the 5.3 - but I dunno which motor you have, so YMMV

2 quarts low is a lot.... my 5.3 starts ticking at idle when it's 1/2 quart low (it's a neat feature GM built into the 5.3s :roll:)
 

CaseyS

Well-Known Member
Messages
755
Location
Louisiana
How many miles do you have on your engine? Sorry to tell you that your situation will not improve. My engine lasted 260,000+ miles. Over the last 60k, burning oil was accepted. I ran synthetic and went 10k-15k between changes, sometimes longer. You probably need to keep some oil in the vehicle and check it every other fillup or so.

Mine gave the same symptoms. When hitting the brakes hard, the low oil level would starve the pickup and I would ping the oil pressure light. At that point it would normally take about 2 qts to bring it back to normal level.

How often are you changing the oil? 2 qts over 10000 miles is one thing, 2 qts over 3000 miles is another. At the very end of my engine life, it burned through a qt every 100 miles or so. I figured my weedeater burned less oil per gallon.

At this point you should start budgeting for a major overhaul in the next 12-24 months depending on your annual mileage if you plan on keeping the vehicle. If not, I would look to get out of it before it gets any worse.
 

persius1

Well-Known Member
Messages
103
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Well I've checked my throttle body about a month ago when I was replacing spark plugs and it was clean.

I have the 3.7 I-5 it's a 2007 adventure model. I'm currently at 145,000 miles, I run mobile 1 full synthetic (rated for 15,000 miles) and it gets low about every 10,000 miles so that's when I usually change it. I haven't noticed any leaks whatsoever so is this a sign of worn piston rings?


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rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,852
Location
Bellflower, CA
10,000 miles, wow. Don't trust the 15,000 mile claim. That rating is for a Prius I bet. If after 10k and your 2 qts low I would say that is about right for burn off. At least check the level every few thousand and top off as needed. I use Mobile 1 too but I change every 5k. I have the 3.5 and I have yet to lose more than 1/2 qt with 115k
 

persius1

Well-Known Member
Messages
103
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Hmmm....it's my daily driver and I do a lot of driving for work so I guess I will just have to monitor it more closely, like every 1000 miles and carry extra qts like Caseys and rascole stated. If that's a normal burn off rate then I'll try not to worry too much about it haha!
 

DJinCO

Well-Known Member
Persius,
I ran the M1 for just under 10K in my Tahoe (one time only) and pulled a sample for analysis. The oil was "used up" even though it was "supposed" to go to 15K.

I still change around 6K. And I don't use M1, because analysis showed me that it was not up to snuff for my driving.
 

CaseyS

Well-Known Member
Messages
755
Location
Louisiana
May not just be piston blowby, could also be from valve guides. Keep an eye on it and maybe log your consumption, that way you can tell when things start to degrade from where you are now.
 

persius1

Well-Known Member
Messages
103
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Thanks DJinCO. That's good to know. What do you use now? My driving style mixes from city to lots of freeway.

I just did an oil change this past Friday in preparation for my trip to Moab. I'll be documenting this one more closely CaseyS.

Any other trouble shooting tips will be much appreciated :D


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rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,852
Location
Bellflower, CA
What weight oil are you running? I know of people switching to 0-30 just to squeak out that extra MPG, not sure of the long term consumption compared to heavier oil.
 

MaxPF

AGNTSA
Messages
1,394
Location
The dark side of the globe
0-30 is the same viscosity at operating temp as 5-30 or 10-30. It is only thinner than 5-30 and 10-30 when cold, but even then it's cold viscosity is higher than it's hot viscosity. When comparing oil viscosity ignore the xW-xx viscosity ratings and look at the measured viscosity. It is usually listed in centiStokes, abbreviated cSt.

If you look at the Mobil 1 product pages you will see that the 100°C viscosity for M1 0W-30 is 10.9cSt, while the 5W-30 is 11.0cSt and the 10W-30 is 10.1cSt. In other words, the 0W-30 and 5W-30 are virtually identical while the 10W-30 is actually thinner at operating temps! Cold viscosity (40°C) for 0W-30, 5W-30, and 10W-30 is 62.9cSt, 61.7cSt, and 63.2cSt respectively. In other words, their viscosity are all basically the same at 40°C and in all cases are nearly 6 times thicker than at operating temps. What the charts don't show is the cold flow pour point which is where 0W-30 really shines. If you live somewhere that gets really cold (i.e. below 0°F) then 0W-30 will reduce startup wear. For those in warm weather climates there is no real advantage or disadvantage. It certainly won't increase wear.

As for the oil consumption, you won't necessarily have more blowby if it's the rings. The compression rings can be in good shape while the oil control rings can be varnished and no longer keeping oil out of the cylinders. As another pointed out, valve guide seals are also a possible culprit. Not sure about the valve guide seals on the Atlas engines though. Does it puff blue smoke on take-off? Chrysler engines in mini-vans, K-cars and the like are known for valve guide seals going bad, which is why you often see them puffing blue smoke when they take off from a light. You could also be sucking oil through the PCV valve. Again, I don't know if that's a problem on the Atlas engines...
 
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persius1

Well-Known Member
Messages
103
Location
Phoenix, AZ
As for the oil consumption, you won't necessarily have more blowby if it's the rings. The compression rings can be in good shape while the oil control rings can be varnished and no longer keeping oil out of the cylinders. As another pointed out, valve guide seals are also a possible culprit. Not sure about the valve guide seals on the Atlas engines though. Does it puff blue smoke on take-off? Chrysler engines in mini-vans, K-cars and the like are known for valve guide seals going bad, which is why you often see them puffing blue smoke when they take off from a light. You could also be sucking oil through the PCV valve. Again, I don't know if that's a problem on the Atlas engines...[/QUOTE]

I use 5w-30 which is perfect for the climate in Albuquerque.

The weird thing is the oil is being burned away, however, I don't see any signs of where it's going. No tail pipe smoke, intake is clean, no leaks....


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H32NV

Well-Known Member
Messages
322
Location
Golden, CO
Same with me guys. I burn about 2 quarts every oil change(every 5K, mobil1 5w-30), and have no idea where its going. Def some is coming up the PCV valve, but i would think I would see smoke at that rate. Zero smoke. no signs, no leaks. Its got to be going somewhere.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,506
Location
Meridian, ID
I have some oil consumption problems. Nothing crazy but if I can solve it or lessen it would be nice. I have visible oil coming from the PCV valve, so for me a good chunk of my consumption is from blow by. Problably not all but some certainly is.
 

H32NV

Well-Known Member
Messages
322
Location
Golden, CO
why didnt our engines always do this? I put 35's on right away, so the load hasnt been increased much over the miles on the truck. It started for me after 100,000miles. Prior to that, i burned maybe .5qt per change, with the same driving habits. its either going somewhere, or something is wearing out...
 

MaxPF

AGNTSA
Messages
1,394
Location
The dark side of the globe
Persius,
I ran the M1 for just under 10K in my Tahoe (one time only) and pulled a sample for analysis. The oil was "used up" even though it was "supposed" to go to 15K.

I still change around 6K. And I don't use M1, because analysis showed me that it was not up to snuff for my driving.

I noticed all the guys with high oil consumption are using Mobil 1 (which isn't a truly synthetic oil, BTW). M1 is a good oil, but perhaps not for the I-5.
 

persius1

Well-Known Member
Messages
103
Location
Phoenix, AZ
It's definitely happening to us with the higher mileage. Maybe the M1 brand is burning up? What is another good quality oil for the I-5?


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H32NV

Well-Known Member
Messages
322
Location
Golden, CO
the engineer in me says that changing brands, at least in this isolated case, is not going to have a significant impact.
 

rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,852
Location
Bellflower, CA
I run what ever is cheaper when I buy it. M1, Castrol, Panzoil, Valvoline, even have used SuperTech from Walmart. Although M1 is my choice based on soley on "that's what my dad uses". Any synthetic is going to be better than conventional, how much is another topic.
MaxPF, how is M1 not a true synthetic?
 

H32NV

Well-Known Member
Messages
322
Location
Golden, CO
ive heard that SuperTech stuff is actually re-labeled Quaker State. Source: I used to work at Wal-mart for one summer.
 

DJinCO

Well-Known Member
Persius,
I never had problem with leaks or oil burning with my Tahoe. When it was totaled at 105K miles the motor was running like a well oiled machine!
I switched over to Pennzoil Platinum because of the additive package. My problem with the 5.3L in the Tahoe was fuel dilution. I had a re-programmed CPU for high altitude, towing and 91 octane fuel.

When I bought my replacement vehicle, I found the H3 with 124K miles. It had always been changed at the dealer with GM dino-blend oil very regularly. The previous owner was an employee of the service dept, and drove the H3 between Colorado Springs and Denver and Colorado Springs and Las Vegas on a regular basis.

I ran Shell Rotella T6 for a few months before switching to Pennzoil Ultimate in the H3. As an experiment, I changed out the fluids to bio-synthetic oil. I ran the bio-syn for just under 6K miles and did not have to add any oil. My last change a couple of weeks ago I went back to Pennzoil Platinum 5W30 because I only have 3 qts of bio-syn on hand; I need to order more, but just haven't. I did pull a sample for analysis. Holding off for a time when I have an extra $150 for the UOA.

My H3 has 150K miles and doesn't smoke, burn or loose oil.
The front diff seal... that's another story... I have a leak and need to replace the seal.

Hope this helps.
 

persius1

Well-Known Member
Messages
103
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Persius,
I never had problem with leaks or oil burning with my Tahoe. When it was totaled at 105K miles the motor was running like a well oiled machine!
I switched over to Pennzoil Platinum because of the additive package. My problem with the 5.3L in the Tahoe was fuel dilution. I had a re-programmed CPU for high altitude, towing and 91 octane fuel.

When I bought my replacement vehicle, I found the H3 with 124K miles. It had always been changed at the dealer with GM dino-blend oil very regularly. The previous owner was an employee of the service dept, and drove the H3 between Colorado Springs and Denver and Colorado Springs and Las Vegas on a regular basis.

I ran Shell Rotella T6 for a few months before switching to Pennzoil Ultimate in the H3. As an experiment, I changed out the fluids to bio-synthetic oil. I ran the bio-syn for just under 6K miles and did not have to add any oil. My last change a couple of weeks ago I went back to Pennzoil Platinum 5W30 because I only have 3 qts of bio-syn on hand; I need to order more, but just haven't. I did pull a sample for analysis. Holding off for a time when I have an extra $150 for the UOA.

My H3 has 150K miles and doesn't smoke, burn or loose oil.
The front diff seal... that's another story... I have a leak and need to replace the seal.

Hope this helps.

Is this the oil you are talking about?

http://www.amazon.com/Bio-Based-Advanced-Synthetic-5W-30-MOTOR/dp/B008229QSU

I'll keep sampling my oil condition and levels. Something to also note, I've also been using the FRAM filter for full synthetics. Don't know if they really do make a difference in how long the oil should last.


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Airborne

Just a regular dude
Messages
294
Location
Utah
For the guys losing oil, an option might be to try some moly or better the Liqui-moly Ceratech. Bobistheoilguy.com has a few reviews about that stuff from people that have torn their engines apart after using it. According to them there are significant signs it does exactly what it says. Obviously it won't heal burnt seals etc just help keep the engine running better and producing less wear, since you are probably going to be running lower than optimal oil levels. Maybe an idea to help the higher mileage engines last a bit longer. A warning though on that website those guys get really passionate about oil. Discussing it for pages and months on end. But there are more oil and fuel economy discussions there than anywhere.
 
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