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Cool build. Anticipated completion date?
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FJ4overland
- Thread starter SuperBuickGuy
- Start date
SuperBuickGuy
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- Woodinville, WA
Done with everything but the doors and top before January 1st. I will be helped in this endeavor because I have the 10 days off between Christmas and New Year's
SuperBuickGuy
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- Woodinville, WA
A brief recap of what you're seen so far
3 link front, dana 44 high pinion, loc-rite, 4.56 gears. narrowed to 57" and moved forward 2 1/2" I also swapped sides on the pumpkin so I have a "super rare GM high pinion 44"
king 14" travel coil overs with a 4" up/10" down travel arrangement (you wouldn't believe how much trouble it was to get the seller to understand this)
scout 2 steering box
1998 vortec chevy motor with a howell's efi tbi system on it
5 speed AR5 - which is a beefy ax15 transmission
Dana 300 transfer case, stock gears, short 30spline output from Novak
tom woods drive shafts
dana 60 rear moved back 2 1/2" (I believe) If I remember correctly the wheelbase is now 95" instead of the stock 90.... honestly, the only reason I moved it was for tire clearance
gm disk brakes on the rear
king shocks on the rear are 10" travel, and the springs are stock JK Jeep.
I boxed the frame and recessed the springs as well along with custom fab'd the bracket and mounts or modified brackets from a couple different companies.
the front axles are from nitro gear and are 30 spline inners and outers... they are custom length, and the u-joints don't have roll pins in them - they're guaranteed for life and are 4340 steel
rear axles are nitro gear as well, 35 spline, custom width
the covers are welded steel the rear is from someone as is the front - but the front I cut down to clear the cross shaft.
you see the tail lights
12,000 lb winch on the front (superwinch)
Inside
suspension seats
dakota digital analog dash (and electronic speedo)
the dash I modified to allow placement of the computers behind the center and I will put a double din stereo with gps behind a protective cover. I also will have ham radios and race radios as well (I do search and rescue so radios are important).
6 point roll cage
tube fenders are from a custom shop in Newberg Oregon, the rear are from a TJ Jeep.
The whole point of this is to keep a low center of gravity but to have enough drop on the suspension to allow it to drop into holes
the tires are 38 super swampers and will, eventually be beadlocked 40" tires. I do a lot of snow wheeling and flotation is king in that.
and the overall theme is stone-cold-reliable rig that you can drive cross country without dying but take a right or left anywhere your heart desires.
3 link front, dana 44 high pinion, loc-rite, 4.56 gears. narrowed to 57" and moved forward 2 1/2" I also swapped sides on the pumpkin so I have a "super rare GM high pinion 44"
king 14" travel coil overs with a 4" up/10" down travel arrangement (you wouldn't believe how much trouble it was to get the seller to understand this)
scout 2 steering box
1998 vortec chevy motor with a howell's efi tbi system on it
5 speed AR5 - which is a beefy ax15 transmission
Dana 300 transfer case, stock gears, short 30spline output from Novak
tom woods drive shafts
dana 60 rear moved back 2 1/2" (I believe) If I remember correctly the wheelbase is now 95" instead of the stock 90.... honestly, the only reason I moved it was for tire clearance
gm disk brakes on the rear
king shocks on the rear are 10" travel, and the springs are stock JK Jeep.
I boxed the frame and recessed the springs as well along with custom fab'd the bracket and mounts or modified brackets from a couple different companies.
the front axles are from nitro gear and are 30 spline inners and outers... they are custom length, and the u-joints don't have roll pins in them - they're guaranteed for life and are 4340 steel
rear axles are nitro gear as well, 35 spline, custom width
the covers are welded steel the rear is from someone as is the front - but the front I cut down to clear the cross shaft.
you see the tail lights
12,000 lb winch on the front (superwinch)
Inside
suspension seats
dakota digital analog dash (and electronic speedo)
the dash I modified to allow placement of the computers behind the center and I will put a double din stereo with gps behind a protective cover. I also will have ham radios and race radios as well (I do search and rescue so radios are important).
6 point roll cage
tube fenders are from a custom shop in Newberg Oregon, the rear are from a TJ Jeep.
The whole point of this is to keep a low center of gravity but to have enough drop on the suspension to allow it to drop into holes
the tires are 38 super swampers and will, eventually be beadlocked 40" tires. I do a lot of snow wheeling and flotation is king in that.
and the overall theme is stone-cold-reliable rig that you can drive cross country without dying but take a right or left anywhere your heart desires.
SuperBuickGuy
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- Location
- Woodinville, WA
pretty colors
on the left, is the durabak18 color, it's going to be the inside (and underside) of the vehicle. The middle color is the color that's going to be on the outside... the other color is the one I just didn't fall in love with so won't be used....
ready for undercoating
on the left, is the durabak18 color, it's going to be the inside (and underside) of the vehicle. The middle color is the color that's going to be on the outside... the other color is the one I just didn't fall in love with so won't be used....
ready for undercoating
SuperBuickGuy
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paint, lots and lots of paint
first step was undercoating.... it was amazingly thin, but it seems pretty adherent so I may use it again for solely that purpose
black... and I hate black undercarriages
tan, on the other hand is nice
coat 1
coat 2
flip over, partial coat.... ordering more (ugh)
the bright side is the underside is pretty much done so I can put it back on the frame and gain some room back in the shop. I still have lots more painting/body work to do... but I could attach the body to the frame and start final assembly... we'll see, as I said, there is body work left to be done and doing the body work with the body firmly attached is the best way to do this
first step was undercoating.... it was amazingly thin, but it seems pretty adherent so I may use it again for solely that purpose
black... and I hate black undercarriages
tan, on the other hand is nice
coat 1
coat 2
flip over, partial coat.... ordering more (ugh)
the bright side is the underside is pretty much done so I can put it back on the frame and gain some room back in the shop. I still have lots more painting/body work to do... but I could attach the body to the frame and start final assembly... we'll see, as I said, there is body work left to be done and doing the body work with the body firmly attached is the best way to do this
SuperBuickGuy
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onward
air tank arrived
at 12 cfm, I don't really need storage, but I learned on my H3 that having a place for all the various fittings (safety valve, pressure valve, etc) is a good thing
yep, they're bowed and I don't care
I think the transmission tunnel shrunk when I painted it.... amazing
oh yes, and another issue
at first I thought maybe the frame was screwed up from the accident it had been in; but that makes no sense because it's equal in its distance
so I went ahead and cut another hole
and kept thinking "why?"
I put the side plates on an then thought... wait a minute
oh those bastards
it's pretty obvious (in person) that the rear spacer under the door had been replaced.... they screwed it up and didn't make it wide enough... that's a first... but the cute part is they blended the corners - and but for a bit of screwy hammering on the passenger side (the side that didn't get hit); I'd never have realized it. I thought the guy who made the corner guards had given me extra metal.... nope, he built it for what Toyota built... ah well, easy enough to fix.
it's even easier to see how much too short it is
I admit, it had me going... I was so careful when I cut the frame for the pockets, and when I welded the plates on the inside.... but it wouldn't be the first time I blazed along only to find out later that I'd not been paying enough attention (which is why I really paid a lot of attention when I was doing this).... I also had measured the frame to be sure it was square before I did anything to the frame - after all, every suspension measurement relies on the frame being square.
and the panels are fit
and the hole is complete
and something good came out of this.... the batteries can be raised another inch up
maybe the other way?
air tank arrived
at 12 cfm, I don't really need storage, but I learned on my H3 that having a place for all the various fittings (safety valve, pressure valve, etc) is a good thing
yep, they're bowed and I don't care
I think the transmission tunnel shrunk when I painted it.... amazing
oh yes, and another issue
at first I thought maybe the frame was screwed up from the accident it had been in; but that makes no sense because it's equal in its distance
so I went ahead and cut another hole
and kept thinking "why?"
I put the side plates on an then thought... wait a minute
oh those bastards
it's pretty obvious (in person) that the rear spacer under the door had been replaced.... they screwed it up and didn't make it wide enough... that's a first... but the cute part is they blended the corners - and but for a bit of screwy hammering on the passenger side (the side that didn't get hit); I'd never have realized it. I thought the guy who made the corner guards had given me extra metal.... nope, he built it for what Toyota built... ah well, easy enough to fix.
it's even easier to see how much too short it is
I admit, it had me going... I was so careful when I cut the frame for the pockets, and when I welded the plates on the inside.... but it wouldn't be the first time I blazed along only to find out later that I'd not been paying enough attention (which is why I really paid a lot of attention when I was doing this).... I also had measured the frame to be sure it was square before I did anything to the frame - after all, every suspension measurement relies on the frame being square.
and the panels are fit
and the hole is complete
and something good came out of this.... the batteries can be raised another inch up
maybe the other way?
SuperBuickGuy
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- Woodinville, WA
awww, look, my first optima was obviously preggers when I got her and she had an offspring!
time to start figuring fitment
the hitch wasn't straight, so it was easy enough to convince myself to remove it... I'll go with an under-mount. It certainly wasn't easy to get out - I installed it a bit too well. oh well, it's out now
so a 3rd brake light!
uh, no
fit the corner guards and cut the holes for the lights
now to make it permanent
time to start figuring fitment
the hitch wasn't straight, so it was easy enough to convince myself to remove it... I'll go with an under-mount. It certainly wasn't easy to get out - I installed it a bit too well. oh well, it's out now
so a 3rd brake light!
uh, no
fit the corner guards and cut the holes for the lights
now to make it permanent
SuperBuickGuy
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battery box
still need to create hold downs and a box to seal them.... but the basics are there
still need to create hold downs and a box to seal them.... but the basics are there
SuperBuickGuy
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- Woodinville, WA
someone commented that my cables won't be enough to run the motor and the winch.... lol... with me, it's not done until it's over done
onto the front
I've no idea why GM designed this so you couldn't take a valve cover off without taking the front of the motor off... I fixed it
and time to do some CAD work
and there we go... test fit, and waiting for paint to dry
$80.00 for crapola reservoir holders....
and yes, that's stainless steel... again, it's not done until over done.... I might even polish them simply because I can.
onto the front
I've no idea why GM designed this so you couldn't take a valve cover off without taking the front of the motor off... I fixed it
and time to do some CAD work
and there we go... test fit, and waiting for paint to dry
$80.00 for crapola reservoir holders....
and yes, that's stainless steel... again, it's not done until over done.... I might even polish them simply because I can.
SuperBuickGuy
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- Woodinville, WA
Pump mounted
run a wire to see how long of belt I need (95-96")
my next-ish step is to get this started before the body is mounted.... need a water pump for that happen....
test-fit the clamps
run a wire to see how long of belt I need (95-96")
my next-ish step is to get this started before the body is mounted.... need a water pump for that happen....
test-fit the clamps
SuperBuickGuy
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- 3,403
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- Woodinville, WA
Pictures ... not a lot of progress, but some - when I went to my parents, I could use my dad's (much better and much larger) brake and shear. I took advantage of it.
So I bent this up 16 ga SS 304 #4 finish.... I'll have to fix that finish - I'm not too much into "shiney"
Or, I'll simply continue the diamond plate deal across
and the belt... 3rd time was a charge... 101" IIRC
So I bent this up 16 ga SS 304 #4 finish.... I'll have to fix that finish - I'm not too much into "shiney"
Or, I'll simply continue the diamond plate deal across
and the belt... 3rd time was a charge... 101" IIRC
SuperBuickGuy
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all this removal to get one hose clamp
upper hose done
I could have sworn I took a picture of the lower hose... but no, but it's done too... so the cooling system is now connected and waiting on Evan's HP coolant. I figure since the system is bone dry, that I can try the waterless stuff - since the FJ40 is renown for its cooling issues, perhaps a bit of preventative at this point is a good idea. If not, I'm sure I'll let you folks know that too.
someone was concerned I didn't have enough room for sliders... lol
stainless
finishing up the battery box
and onto the tailgate...
I'm still looking for hinges and hinge ideas so that it folds down flat, and the hinges aren't exposed... but I'll not spend much more time since this needs to be done next so I can get onto the rear tire carrier.
upper hose done
I could have sworn I took a picture of the lower hose... but no, but it's done too... so the cooling system is now connected and waiting on Evan's HP coolant. I figure since the system is bone dry, that I can try the waterless stuff - since the FJ40 is renown for its cooling issues, perhaps a bit of preventative at this point is a good idea. If not, I'm sure I'll let you folks know that too.
someone was concerned I didn't have enough room for sliders... lol
stainless
finishing up the battery box
and onto the tailgate...
I'm still looking for hinges and hinge ideas so that it folds down flat, and the hinges aren't exposed... but I'll not spend much more time since this needs to be done next so I can get onto the rear tire carrier.
SuperBuickGuy
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- Woodinville, WA
mark line to straighten
weld new front spacer
weld new back panel then straighten panel (the heat marks)
better, it now overlaps
consider how to make hinges... I think they'll be in the shape of a "9" but we'll see, some trial and error is going to happen.
weld new front spacer
weld new back panel then straighten panel (the heat marks)
better, it now overlaps
consider how to make hinges... I think they'll be in the shape of a "9" but we'll see, some trial and error is going to happen.
SuperBuickGuy
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- 3,403
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- Woodinville, WA
ADD strikes again, I'm on the brakes and air system... and promptly stopped. It hardly seems worth the effort to update...
fitment issue
my goal is to finish the brake lines, run the main power cables, brace the battery hole, and then put the body on for real. we will see...
fitment issue
my goal is to finish the brake lines, run the main power cables, brace the battery hole, and then put the body on for real. we will see...
SuperBuickGuy
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- Woodinville, WA
The long dark teatime of the FJ40
Tonight was the classic start, find a missing piece, stop, go to something else, repeat 3x...
first on the agenda was cutting the flares down
stopped there because too hot and need flap disk to finish
onto mounting the tank... I got more fittings and started aiming towards solution
I got the fittings for the compressor and spent some quality time being sure the out really was the out
but got stopped because some parts that were supposed to be here Tuesday still aren't... oh well, I should probably have the tub mounted to put the oil/water separator on
I got my exhaust clamps, but quickly realized that the pipe from the header to the cat was damaged more than I originally thought - so another 2 days waiting for 2 1/2 stainless tube stopped that
built my battery cables (negative), but then couldn't find a stainless bolt to weld into place for the ground...
I also need to build the box and that requires argon - which I ran out while tacking together a box for my wife....
I did get my holley fuel mat but the tank is in the body - and I still don't have the last pieces (the bulkhead fitting) so even if I dug it out, it'd be another bit sitting
Tonight was the classic start, find a missing piece, stop, go to something else, repeat 3x...
first on the agenda was cutting the flares down
stopped there because too hot and need flap disk to finish
onto mounting the tank... I got more fittings and started aiming towards solution
I got the fittings for the compressor and spent some quality time being sure the out really was the out
but got stopped because some parts that were supposed to be here Tuesday still aren't... oh well, I should probably have the tub mounted to put the oil/water separator on
I got my exhaust clamps, but quickly realized that the pipe from the header to the cat was damaged more than I originally thought - so another 2 days waiting for 2 1/2 stainless tube stopped that
built my battery cables (negative), but then couldn't find a stainless bolt to weld into place for the ground...
I also need to build the box and that requires argon - which I ran out while tacking together a box for my wife....
I did get my holley fuel mat but the tank is in the body - and I still don't have the last pieces (the bulkhead fitting) so even if I dug it out, it'd be another bit sitting
SuperBuickGuy
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thoughts?
http://www.digitalguarddawg.com/automobiles-trucks/push-button-start-automotive/pbs-tr
I think, rather then brake-pedal activation that I'd simply put a button on the dash to push since having to hold the brake when you're using the starter to move the vehicle would kind of defeat the purpose....
and I'd either put a slot in the dash or the sensor in the driver's seat....
http://www.digitalguarddawg.com/automobiles-trucks/push-button-start-automotive/pbs-tr
I think, rather then brake-pedal activation that I'd simply put a button on the dash to push since having to hold the brake when you're using the starter to move the vehicle would kind of defeat the purpose....
and I'd either put a slot in the dash or the sensor in the driver's seat....
Last edited:
- Messages
- 10,533
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- Central Texas
I got a no results off of that link
SuperBuickGuy
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- Woodinville, WA
I did the click then go to command ... it worked
but I just made the url into a link.... tried it and it worked...
but I just made the url into a link.... tried it and it worked...
- Messages
- 10,533
- Location
- Central Texas
I copied and pasted into my browser and got a no results message. I will try the link.
- Messages
- 10,533
- Location
- Central Texas
What is the advantage over a key? You have to put the RFID card within 6" of the antenna to get the push start activation. Doesn't seem like much of a benefit over a key from a ease of use standpoint. I guess 6 billion code combos might be safer than a key for theft.
SuperBuickGuy
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- Woodinville, WA
several advantages
1) cards don't break
2) keys don't float
3) it's hard to steal when you can't find the ignition switch
4) I could put the antenna under the seat - thus the card in my wallet would be close enough to simply start it
5) cards don't rattle to the off position on a rough road
I plan on leaving the top off this rig, so doing the best I can to be certain that the car is where I left it when I parked it is a challenge.
1) cards don't break
2) keys don't float
3) it's hard to steal when you can't find the ignition switch
4) I could put the antenna under the seat - thus the card in my wallet would be close enough to simply start it
5) cards don't rattle to the off position on a rough road
I plan on leaving the top off this rig, so doing the best I can to be certain that the car is where I left it when I parked it is a challenge.
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Same issues with the Scorpion
SuperBuickGuy
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- Woodinville, WA
I think you're right, though, about the 6" limit... I want 3' not 1/2 foot.... the problem is the longer range ones rely on batteries. Alternatively to the metal-blocking limitation, I could make a slot in the dash that grabs the card and holds it in place.... in any case, it will not require pressing the brake to get it started - more likely a momentary switch or something...
SuperBuickGuy
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So, since everyone seems to be against it (though the suggestion of a key in lock box kind of seems to be adding a layer of complexity - after all, if I lose the keys, how do I get into the lockbox?) I'll go ahead and do it 
until then... today was a short day because of dogs
I got the "antifreeze" that isn't - it's good from 40 degrees and won't boil up to 375 degrees. Everyone whines about cooling issues. This should solve it since this is a far better cooling fluid - it should, at $45/gallon it's not cheap. Oh and in other news, the people that say filling the dry block is 2.5 gallon are a bunch of liars. It's more than 3 gallons and that is without the heater cores
clean bench = sick mind... I'm obviously right as rain
anyway, I begrudgingly decided to do this the right way (well that and I didn't completely fasten the bracket on so I had to take it apart anyway
I'm sure this picture is showing something important... can't think what it is... but something
*&(^^***@@@@!!!! GM engineers
they soldered the loop back onto the back of the reservoir.... fortunately, I have tools and torches and have no fear of using them (even incorrectly)
for those who think I can't weld, don't look at this next picture
onto the fuel pump... don't ask me if it's on the right way - I've no idea
and mount the air compressor tank
gratuitous picture of the frame
wiring of the EFI
I've decided that I'm utterly sick of tracing bad butt-connection joints and non-waterproof connects. Now I've hidden them and made them even harder to trace.. smart, huh?
and about instructions - I've read about 100 different ways of making the joints "perfect" they're all full of Jeep - the easiest way is simply bend the tabs over, then use the crimp device to give them a final crimp....
main power lines are run and started brake lines.... and that's it for tonight, thanks for reading
until then... today was a short day because of dogs
I got the "antifreeze" that isn't - it's good from 40 degrees and won't boil up to 375 degrees. Everyone whines about cooling issues. This should solve it since this is a far better cooling fluid - it should, at $45/gallon it's not cheap. Oh and in other news, the people that say filling the dry block is 2.5 gallon are a bunch of liars. It's more than 3 gallons and that is without the heater cores
clean bench = sick mind... I'm obviously right as rain
anyway, I begrudgingly decided to do this the right way (well that and I didn't completely fasten the bracket on so I had to take it apart anyway
I'm sure this picture is showing something important... can't think what it is... but something
*&(^^***@@@@!!!! GM engineers
they soldered the loop back onto the back of the reservoir.... fortunately, I have tools and torches and have no fear of using them (even incorrectly)
for those who think I can't weld, don't look at this next picture
onto the fuel pump... don't ask me if it's on the right way - I've no idea
and mount the air compressor tank
gratuitous picture of the frame
wiring of the EFI
I've decided that I'm utterly sick of tracing bad butt-connection joints and non-waterproof connects. Now I've hidden them and made them even harder to trace.. smart, huh?
and about instructions - I've read about 100 different ways of making the joints "perfect" they're all full of Jeep - the easiest way is simply bend the tabs over, then use the crimp device to give them a final crimp....
main power lines are run and started brake lines.... and that's it for tonight, thanks for reading
SuperBuickGuy
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- Woodinville, WA
stainless bolt welded to the battery tray....
stainless box which has nothing to do with this build
according to the instructions, these wires are color coded... yeah... good thing I have a label machine
so I cut off the newer connection and used a delphi connection on both sides.... now the injectors should work. I shudder to think of just how many things have to work for this to fire....
that said I am getting better at these connectors so perhaps all will be well.... it's possible, but if it is perfect, I won't be playing the lottery every again because I'll have used up all my luck
stainless box which has nothing to do with this build
according to the instructions, these wires are color coded... yeah... good thing I have a label machine
so I cut off the newer connection and used a delphi connection on both sides.... now the injectors should work. I shudder to think of just how many things have to work for this to fire....
that said I am getting better at these connectors so perhaps all will be well.... it's possible, but if it is perfect, I won't be playing the lottery every again because I'll have used up all my luck