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motor issues

H32NV

Well-Known Member
Messages
322
Location
Golden, CO
Think I spun a bearing this weekend. No rod knock lately, did a compression and leak down a month ago... looked good..

Motor seized and boiled over on Loveland pass. Oil full, coolant running normal until the second it stopped.

Seems to turn over with a lot of stress now.



What are our options for rebuilding an I-5? Who even does it, or should I just trade it in?
 
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deserth3

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,079
Location
Conroe, TX
Any Chevy dealer can do it. Rebuilt long block and tranny, 3 year, 100K warranty at any Chevy dealer. With rental cost about 12000.00

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Mr_Rich

Well-Known Member
Messages
666
Location
Yucaipa & Santa Maria
Any Chevy dealer can do it. Rebuilt long block and tranny, 3 year, 100K warranty at any Chevy dealer. With rental cost about 12000.00

ANY Chevy dealer??? You might as well walk in backwards with a target on your backside. I have a very low opinion of most dealer mechanics when it comes to rebuilds. They will take every short cut possible and you may be very, very lucky to find one of the very few that actually cares about the work they do for a customer.
I'm lucky in that I've been doing this kind of work for a long time and when it comes time for a new engine I'll buy a factory engine over the counter and install it myself. Most people don't have the talent to do a job like this these days and the vehicles have gotten more and more complicated than ever.
 

H32NV

Well-Known Member
Messages
322
Location
Golden, CO
Looks like an engine on gmpartsdirect.com is $4200.00. Does not specify crate-new or reman/rebuilt.

Contacted good shop in Broomfield to do a Jasper re-man replacement(3years, 100k warr), engine is $4600, total parts/labor with tax is $6800.

Found a motor with 88k miles online for $2400. i think ill pass on the used motor option.

Can pull out motor myself and save a little cash, but really, these H3's need more than the I-5 can give. its a constant struggle to spin those 35's...


also looked at new rubicon X unlimited. $38k. $30k in depreciation over the next five years and the whole interior is a plastic fisher-price toy.
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
Any Chevy dealer can do it. Rebuilt long block and tranny, 3 year, 100K warranty at any Chevy dealer. With rental cost about 12000.00

ANY Chevy dealer??? You might as well walk in backwards with a target on your backside. I have a very low opinion of most dealer mechanics when it comes to rebuilds. They will take every short cut possible and you may be very, very lucky to find one of the very few that actually cares about the work they do for a customer.
I'm lucky in that I've been doing this kind of work for a long time and when it comes time for a new engine I'll buy a factory engine over the counter and install it myself. Most people don't have the talent to do a job like this these days and the vehicles have gotten more and more complicated than ever.

you think the motors are harder to install?

In my opinion it's because the dealership mechanics are (for the most part) monkeys that can only follow a flow chart that things have gotten far better.... in experience is it's all plug and play. Back in the day, you'd spend 4 hours swapping the motor, then 2 days trying to figure out what plugged to where, what vacuum line went to where and replaced all the fluid hoses because the clamps would have destroyed them. Even before that 60s and earlier, manufacturers made production line changes that meant things that should bolt up - didn't... granted, it does take special tools to release some of the hoses, but most lines are molded to only go to one place and have quick disconnects that make removing and installing a literal snap all the electrical connections have their own connectors so you can't screw them up and somewhere on YouTube there's someone who's spent the time to document the hard parts so that you can watch and mimic...
way back when, I used to buy the abandoned projects where someone didn't take pictures of the hoses or wires and when they went to put it back together, it didn't go back together or it wouldn't run right (if at all)....
 
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CaseyS

Well-Known Member
Messages
755
Location
Louisiana
I did an engine swap for 11k. I evaluated options to rebuild the existing motor. Lack of any decent mods available killed that idea. No way I was going to polish that turd and put it back in.

If you do choose to rebuild, I managed with no experience to get the engine and drive line completely out on the ground in 13 hours.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,505
Location
Meridian, ID
To run 35s with stock gears you want a 5.3 if you can regear then the I5 isnt as bad.

That sucks your having issues but there is no way in hell I would pay a dealer 12k for a motor and trans rebuild. They can go **** themselves.
 

H32NV

Well-Known Member
Messages
322
Location
Golden, CO
The latest is that the GMPartsDirect motor is a new crate motor. It's $4200, and RPM Service in Broomfield quoted me $1500 to do the removal/install and replace all hoses etc. So this isn't looking as bad anymore...
 

Mr_Rich

Well-Known Member
Messages
666
Location
Yucaipa & Santa Maria
you think the motors are harder to install?

Rich: It's not the engines that are harder to install. The physical job of R&R'ing the block and trans is the easy part. All the hook-ups and all the
other BS is what eats up your install time.

In my opinion it's because the dealership mechanics are (for the most part) monkeys that can only follow a flow chart that things have gotten far better.... in experience is it's all plug and play. Back in the day, you'd spend 4 hours swapping the motor, then 2 days trying to figure out what plugged to where, what vacuum line went to where and replaced all the fluid hoses because the clamps would have destroyed them.

Rich: I agree with that point. GM has these specific connectors that secure the loom to the frame and other parts of the car. I had to do a lot of
research when I swapped the engine out of my '98 Firebird. I wouldn't let anyone else besides myself touch that car. It's bad enough I have to hand
the keys over to get smog checks every two years.

Even before that 60s and earlier, manufacturers made production line changes that meant things that should bolt up - didn't... granted, it does take special tools to release some of the hoses, but most lines are molded to only go to one place and have quick disconnects that make removing and installing a literal snap all the electrical connections have their own connectors so you can't screw them up and somewhere on YouTube there's someone who's spent the time to document the hard parts so that you can watch and mimic...
way back when, I used to buy the abandoned projects where someone didn't take pictures of the hoses or wires and when they went to put it back together, it didn't go back together or it wouldn't run right (if at all)....

Rich: I documented my engine removal/ install on LS2.com three years ago. Some of the site visitors thought my car might not ever see the road again. They are notoriously hard cars to work on due to the very tight space the engine and trans fits in. Plus the fact I was doing all the work myself without any help so I worked from the top rather than lifting the car off the front suspension member. I finally got motivated and finished it after a year due to finances, two homes, family illnesses, and elderly pets. It was a trying time but I got it done.

When I rebuilt the drivetrain on my K1500 the last job I did was replacing the pass. side axle seal on front diff. A YouTube video was very helpful although there's always some surprises in store when you tackle any job like that.
 
S

SedonaBound

Guest
Can you do the bottom end with the engine still in place. New bearings and a crank grind should be a fraction of an engine swap.

You probably don't want a Rubicon. Unless you like fossils.
 
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H32NV

Well-Known Member
Messages
322
Location
Golden, CO
no, i dont. i guess i dont like the interior really. i just dont think they are worth 40 grand. lots of plastic... every car these days...
 

Happy Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,465
Location
Wisconsin
Have ya done a compression test and leak down?
Have you checked to make sure something in the pulley assembly
Isn't froze?
I'd be all over that pre tensioner, idler, water pump, ac compressor.
I'd do a rebuilt engine.
Chris
 

Mr_Rich

Well-Known Member
Messages
666
Location
Yucaipa & Santa Maria
Can you do the bottom end with the engine still in place. New bearings and a crank grind should be a fraction of an engine swap.

You probably don't want a Rubicon. Unless you like fossils.

That would be such a PITA; I would caution anyone away from attempting something like that. Wayyyy....easier to work in a garage on an engine stand than on your back for hours bolting and unbolting everything on the new engines. Plus the fact the new engines need a special procedure to
prime the oil pump if you pull the pan. You can't just use a drill motor to spin the oil pump like the old Chevy's, Fords, etc. There's a special tool
required now where you remove an oil galley plug and pump oil into the galley externally. It's easy with the right tool and I wanted to make sure I
mentioned it to caution anyone who attempts this. I had to do this with my LS6.
 
S

SedonaBound

Guest
That would be such a PITA; I would caution anyone away from attempting something like that. Wayyyy....easier to work in a garage on an engine stand than on your back for hours bolting and unbolting everything on the new engines. Plus the fact the new engines need a special procedure to
prime the oil pump if you pull the pan. You can't just use a drill motor to spin the oil pump like the old Chevy's, Fords, etc. There's a special tool
required now where you remove an oil galley plug and pump oil into the galley externally. It's easy with the right tool and I wanted to make sure I
mentioned it to caution anyone who attempts this. I had to do this with my LS6.
I was just askin'. I remember when an in-vehicle bottom end overhaul was pretty common. But that was when there was a lot more room under hood in trucks.
 
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H32NV

Well-Known Member
Messages
322
Location
Golden, CO
I did a compression and leakdown a month ago and it all looked great.

Have not checked pulley assembly. Will do that tonight. Good idea.

-Rob
 

H32NV

Well-Known Member
Messages
322
Location
Golden, CO
How much of a pain would it be to swap in that V8? I am thinking it needs frame modifications, new ECM, possibly new gauges, new wiring harness. At that rate, I should just do the real fix and go 6.0L/4L80E
 

derian06

Red Rockett
Messages
1,866
Location
Madison, AL
How much of a pain would it be to swap in that V8? I am thinking it needs frame modifications, new ECM, possibly new gauges, new wiring harness. At that rate, I should just do the real fix and go 6.0L/4L80E

The 5.3 is already sold i checked today


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H32NV

Well-Known Member
Messages
322
Location
Golden, CO
I can buy a new 5.3L for the same price as a 3.7L. outside of a wiring harness and ECM, how much of a pain would it be to swap out? Didnt someone do this already? TheBroken?
 

derian06

Red Rockett
Messages
1,866
Location
Madison, AL
I can buy a new 5.3L for the same price as a 3.7L. outside of a wiring harness and ECM, how much of a pain would it be to swap out? Didnt someone do this already? TheBroken?

I'm about to start my V8 swap


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