New motor

[06 H3]

That's a good idea I will call him tomorrow!

 

[Zach]

That's a good idea I will call him tomorrow!

Call the British wanker now. I will forward you his number, just got off of the phone with him

 

[06 H3]

Thanks for sending me the #

 

[CaseyS]

Question: are all the envoy driven accessories (power steering, ac, alternator) in the same location and configuration as the alpha (and all the 5.3s for that matter). Meaning can you find off the shelf alpha parts for all the little bits that you are going to need.

Power steering hoses
Ac hoses
Radiator hoses
Air intake
Exhaust headers
And others

 

[06 H3]

Radiator hoses intake and exhaust manifold yes power steering lines doesn't matter because I'm running custom ones already for my SAS. I'm using a Nissan Xterra box on the outside of the framerail. A/c lines I still need to check

 

[CaseyS]

Rereading some of this thread and more comments and questions.

Reason for aftermarket motor mounts vs stock mounts? That mount is similar to mine and will be noticably stiffer with more vibration than the stock mount. Does it put the crank center at the factory location?

Have you pulled the pan on the h3 trans yet. Post a pic of it. You will notice immediately the 1-2 accumulator at the lower left is offset. The left side of the valve body is also chamfered to fit the pan. Filter is hummer specific too.

Couple of things I did to mine while I was in there. Hardened sun shell $50. Corvette servo $20. Upgrade the 3-4 clutch stack to 7 instead of 6 clutches with 0.080 steels $40 for one additional clutch and the thinner steels. You could also add a 29 element forward sprag for another $50 or so. Interested to see what your trans guy has to say. Full rebuild kit runs only about 400 so might be wise to just do everything while you are in it.

 

[06 H3]

Stock 5.3 frame mount for the motor mount is different then the 5 cyl. I do weld and can cut off the mount and weld on an alpha mount to the frame to accept the stock alpha motor mounts but figuring a company already makes these for colorados i figured why not it's easier. I'm not too worried about the vibrations. I do realize that these colorado guys are normally track car guys so I want to reinforce the mounts with some extra gussets.

I would assume it does put it center the v8 colorado swap guys use factory radiators and fans not sure if it does with the fan shroud.

I pulled the pan but didn't snap a pic. Thanks for the list of things you added! I wanna build mine up a bit

 

[06 H3]

Can I use an 07 envoy valve body and use an h3 pan or will it not fit? figure Casey would know

 

[06 H3]

Thanks to Casey S and speaking with the trans shop an h3 trans pan interferes with only 4l60es accumulator so you must use an h3 accumulator but the valve body is a non issue

 

[06 H3]

With everything out I took the time today to weld some things from the SAS that may have been tough to reach or maybe a spot that was in the way of the motor/trans/tcase. While I have put over 9k miles on the setup and all has been fine I figured I might as well touch up some things. I also dropped both trans off. Will be done Wednesday/Thursday. Woohoo!

Upgraded servos, beast sunshell, upgraded clutches and transferring over the h3 pan accumulator tail housing and shaft for the t case.

On Thursday I revalved my first Bilstein 7100. I went from 275/78 to 275/180 it was wayyyy to soft on compression and with the v8 I went aggressive on the new compression shim stack. Just need to recharge it with nitrogen.

Gonna try and put the motor in early next week and also make reenforce the motor mounts with some added gussets

 

[CaseyS]

Still trying to figure out the valve body for you. From my build thread I show I had to use the h3 valve body with the accumulator swap. Im trying to find if the valve body was notched for the accumulator or the pan and why the swap was necessary. I don't have photo evidence to review for that part.

 

[06 H3]

Thanks, the trans guy claims swapping the accumulator will take care of the pan. what I don't understand is why he said you can't swap the valve body due to electronics. All this stuff is virgin to me so I'm learning as I go along

 

[3Hummers]

So are we Chris.

 

[06 H3]

The good thing is by the time I'm done I should have a better understanding on all of this and will pass the info. With the SAS I had months of research so I knew a ton more on the topic. This came at me unexpectedly. I still opted for the v8 which will be worth it later even if it's a bit tougher and longer to do now

 

[amrg]

The good thing is by the time I'm done I should have a better understanding on all of this and will pass the info. With the SAS I had months of research so I knew a ton more on the topic. This came at me unexpectedly. I still opted for the v8 which will be worth it later even if it's a bit tougher and longer to do now

Hope once all is done you let us know how does the V8 perform with your agressive gearing!

 

[06 H3]

So today I added some gussets to the Current performance Motor mounts, My main concern on them is the fact they are made for colorado guys that use their trucks on the street where I am constantly twisting up the frame putting stress on the mounts. I am not sure if the gussets will get in the way of the motor mount brackets on the frame but we will see.

I dropped off the transmission. I wanted to go to Anthony but I am running tight on time and adding in the fact that I would have to drive 30-40 min to Simi valley to pick up the trans at my buddy's place then drive another 1 1/2 to 2 hours (depending on traffic) one way to Anthony's I would be using up roughly 6 hours of drive time for drop off and pick up combined. If I run into issues with this trans guy I will go to Anthony and make the drive but I hope all goes well. the transmission will be done by Wednesday or thursday. Thanks to ScoreH3 who gave me the local recommendation.

As for the work being done on squeaky during this time I was at my buddy's place and I went over everything. Its crazy how much more room there is to weld things when the motor, trans and t case are gone. While I have racked over 9k miles on the SAS on and off road with no issues on anything that I welded and havent had a weld break I did go over some things such as weld portions that could not be accessed before or were not welded as well due to the limited space. I finished all of that.

I am going over to my buddy's place before school and I have the day off from work so I am going to swap the oil pan, motor mounts and exhaust manifold. Goal is to have the motor/trans/tcase in the hummer by the end of the week. That will then give me time to start routing exhaust.

04coly who is doing my harness said it will be done by the 28th at the latest but hes shooting for the 21st. Im hoping the 21st because moab is the 5th.

Harness wont be difficult. All the work is done for me, its just plugging crap in but the scary part is whether it will run right with the harness.

Revalved one shock, wanna recharge it before I do the other for a comparsion.

Heres my little workplace to do it. I was certainly grateful for a 7100 revalve video on youtube.



Also my eaton e locker side gear and pins go out for cryo treat tomorrow. I would like to get the locker rebuilt before moab but if my locker is only working 50% of the time its not a dealbreaker. I can run moab with one locker and tons of flex and still have fun. I will not be using the dude from last time! When my pinion bearing went out and my pinion was smacking the carrier the teeth were all in tact which was amazing so I think the cryo treat can only help not hurt.

 

[SedonaBound]

Lookin' good. Your ability to stick with it while working and going to school are really admirable.

 

[RamRod]

Lookin' good. Your ability to stick with it while working and going to school are really admirable.

I second that!

Great work man, its really starting to shape up!

 

[06 H3]

thanks guys! I appreciate it, I really do. I am skipping my first class today, figured I got an A on the last test I can skip one day...

So far I am not too happy with current performance, I went to test fit the motor mounts before I installed them on the motor, according to the directions on the mount (they had them labeled) they needed to be oriented in a certain fashion. They didn't want to fit too well in that area. Figuring its designed for a colorado I may have to notch a few things. I did that and sure enough they don't want to fit on the motor the way they had them oriented. Now I flip em around and try and fit it and it shows that the way to install them was opposite of what they had said and I wouldn't had to notch the frame motor mount, It was only taking off a tiny portion and the structural integrity is not lost but it still pisses me off...

I then swapped out the oil pan and realized that the envoy pan has the dipstick enter though the pan not the block itself but there is a predrilled hole for the dipstick on the block. its not all the way drilled though so I need to do that now :gaah: better now **** that up....

I am also changing the exhaust manifolds right now. Going to get some new gaskets then install them pull the pan back off make sure I don't get any shavings in the block when I drill the hole and then test fit the motor depending on time.

Lastly I need to get a stubby bolt for one of the motor mount bolts...It doesn't want to fit the way its oriented in the mounts, the bolts too long...



oriented wrong but the way they wrote it says this way is right

changed out the pick up tube and gasket







Here is the hole that needs to be finished drilling oujt





Not V8 related but more for SAS users, I am running standard JIC hoses for my Power steering. To do this I needed adapters from JEGS and the one for the PS pump on the I5 works with the power steering pump on the V8. that will make things easier for CJ when helping people with V8 SAS swaps. No need to track down different adapters.

 

[06 H3]

Motor is in! Again not to happy with current performance.

The way they wrote in marker on the mounts how they should be oriented was questioned from the beginning. It seemed off. Got the motor in and the motor sits so far forward there is no room for the radiator and there's a ton of space in the back by the firewall. My guess is they messed up in the description of orienting them. I will call em tomorrow.

Drilled the hole for the dipstick that was easy.

Top of motor mount frame brackets touch the header. I did read that some colorado guys had to trim also.

Not sure on oil pan to diff clearance. Looks about the same but if it isn't I may make my own motor mounts. Get that motor higher up to keep ride height and uptravel the same. That's worst case scenario.

Gonna be busy with work and school tomorrow Wednesday and Thursday. Gonna get the trans Thursday right before they close go down and work Thursday night on the hummer and Friday. Hoping to have everything bolted in by early next week so we can focus on hoses exhaust and the misc crap

 

[Cyouincourt007]

Oh man oh man....getting siked up more by the post following this thread! :cheers:

 

[CaseyS]

Now you are into the fun trailblazing part of engine swaps. Never a day without a wtf moment and a new challenge to work out the little detail things.

I wish there was a way to put a standard jic fitting on the h3 steering rack. I blew out by hose twice in the past three months and am running Armstrong steering now until I can get a new one crimped.

So now that you have modified the mounts they are unreturnable right? Bummer

 

[06 H3]

yep, this is the fun part! Lol mounts will not be refundable. We will see what they say. I've spoke to a few colorado members about them and I'm not sure how great they are but when they are the only ones around they don't have to be great unfortunately. I'm glad I'm using Jamie,a forum member that does this on his spare time, to make my harness.

Sorry to hear about your steering issues. I know the rack itselfhas such little threaded inserts for the lines. At the pump you can run a jic fitting. With mine I went on jegs and bought some threaded inserts that matched the Nissan Xterra steering box (2) for them and one for the pump itself. I'm JIC all around. Where r u breaking them?

 

[06 H3]

That fan is wayyyy to big it's gotta go.



Won't put on the intake manifold till the motor is sitting in its final resting place.

 

[CaseyS]

Measure from the rear face of the block to your trans cross member bolt hole and compare that to the transmission to see how far you are off front to rear. I5 engine is tilted nose up 6 deg if you want to try and shoot for the same driveline alignment.

Another trick. Drop a plumb bob ( a washer on some dental floss or string works good) from the center of the crank pulley, the center of the flywheel, the center of the trans cross member and the center of the rear diff pinion and eyeball check your alignment. I noticed the motor mounts are slotted. You should be able to tweak the engine alignment with those once you have it in the bay.