• Welcome to H4O! For a reduced ad experience, please login or register with the forum.

OutfitterDesigns Heavy Duty Driveline

Enter Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
244
Location
Southwest
It appears that I will be needing to replace the front driveline soon and I was wanting to go this direction. It is only $100 more than a factory one and has 2 regular U-joints.

Does anyone else run these? I could not find any reviews or even any talk about 'em. Do they have any vibrations or anything weird? Reason I ask is because the factory driveline has that weird 6 ball whatever thing in the back and this has a U-joint.

http://www.outfitterdesign.com/h3-front-driveshaft.html
 
Last edited:

Happy Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,465
Location
Wisconsin
Actually the 6 ball CV joint can be replaced. They cost about $50. The ujoints another $25 tops. So, $75 bucks and some time and you can paint the shaft while your at it.
 

Bruces

Well-Known Member
Messages
215
Location
Portland, TN
I just installed the OD shaft this past Thursday. Haven't driven as I had to pull exhaust manifold to extract broken bolts. I will post a review once I get some miles on it. If you can afford it the OD shaft is worth it. In the mean time rebuild (if rebuildable) the old shaft.
 

Pappibri

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,611
Location
Cohoctah, MI
Looks like I will be doing the same. My rig is humming and vibrating between 35-50 and I think I have it traced to it being a bad c.v joint.

Sent from my LG-K425 using Tapatalk
 

derian06

Red Rockett
Messages
1,866
Location
Madison, AL
I've had a bad vibe going 70-80mph ever since I did my SOA no idea whats causing it. I wonder if it could be something like that.
 

Happy Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,465
Location
Wisconsin
Maybe possibly a pinion angle out of alignment? It should point slightly up ward towards tcase flange / yolk. Check the degrees.
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
That is incorrect. You want the pinion angle matching the transfer case angle if you are using standard u-joints on the driveshaft.

Only tilt the pinion up if you are running a cv joint on one end. Otherwise...you'll be out of phase.

d9dae2fad31bb7e5c3954265ea2404ed.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Happy Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,465
Location
Wisconsin
Lol! We started out talking about CV and some how morphed into rear u joints.... Missed that! My screw up. Still with CV you would slightly tilt up. U joint straight on.
 

derian06

Red Rockett
Messages
1,866
Location
Madison, AL
i'll have to take a picture tomorrow if I could get rid of that problem it would make my life alot better. Its to the point where I won't drive my car long distances unless completely necessary.
 

atvspeed4

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,216
Location
massachusetts
You need to check your pinion angle and shim if necessary. Its hard to tell from picture but it appears that your pinion is pointed up at your transfercase and should not be with a non CV driveshaft as the diagram shows above.
 

derian06

Red Rockett
Messages
1,866
Location
Madison, AL
You need to check your pinion angle and shim if necessary. Its hard to tell from picture but it appears that your pinion is pointed up at your transfercase and should not be with a non CV driveshaft as the diagram shows above.

Your definitely right, mine is lined up how it should be with a CV shaft. Is the outfitter design one a CV style?
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
I think Bebe has a cardan cv on her rear shaft. Usually a cv shaft is captured, and I've never seen a combo "cardan-slip yoke" shaft. Not sure how hers is set up.
 

Panzer07

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,548
Location
Ontario, CA
Not to take over the thread, but what would be the fix for my situation in this case?
I was going to run a double cardon with the slip yoke...but the driveshaft guy told me it really isnt necessary after he looked at ny truck, i still haven't completely rule it out since I need to get the rear drive extended about 2 inches after the SAS...probably that would be your solution as well...my stock shaft isn't shaking or vibrating

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
Yeah I agree. I don't think a CV is needed on the rear. I run a standard jointed custom shaft on mine. The only reason it's "custom" is because I needed one 1.5" longer than stock but, the factory shaft is an oddball size tube. So it was easier to make a totally new one, rather than lengthen the original. The new shaft is a standard size tube which will make any future adjustments easier.

You can rotate the pinion down so it matches the t-case shaft angle. Buy some tapered shims on eBay for a few bucks, and install them between the leafs and the perches. They come in different sizes (4-degree, 6-degree, etc.). Most off-road shops and Jeep guys can get them too.

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/ws...0fuREl-B7WiYb_LkWf1lO6IxGuYcpkwBDgBoCq2rw_wcB
 
Last edited:

Panzer07

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,548
Location
Ontario, CA

reaper

Well-Known Member
Messages
527
Location
Denver, Colorado
Just to chime in, I use a custom driveshaft from Tatton Driveline in Utah, it has a double cardon slip and is for my high angle as I'm running the Rancho-- and it was only $250 SHIPPED. :)
 

Happy Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,465
Location
Wisconsin
For the rear or the front lol!? because we keep mixing the two allot on this thread. I'm talking about the rear drive shaft now. But earlier was bs'n about the front.
 

lsv_palana

Well-Known Member
Messages
383
Location
Kamchatka, Russia
Hello dear friends. I have a plan to change front driveline. Why ? I dont know.. i think cv unit on front driveline not good in mud. Can you give advice about it ?

Отправлено с моего SM-N910C через Tapatalk
 
Top