triCkWhisper
Probationary Member
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- 3
- Location
- Salem, Oregon
Door locks and driver side window aren't working. Is it a harness issue or isolated to something else??
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Power Door lock switches and driver window wont operate.
- Thread starter triCkWhisper
- Start date
H3Hummer
Well-Known Member
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- 695
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- LUXEMBOURG in EU
Had the same problem, changed the door / power window master switch.... problem solved
- Messages
- 10,647
- Location
- Scottsdale
That's typically the fix and cheap enough on Amazon.
Doc Olds
Well-Known Member
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- 164
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- Boat Town MI
Replace your OEM Battery Terminal Connectors (if you are still trying to use those) with a quality aftermarket set like Stingers of your favorite brand.
You did not mention you recently disconnected/reconnected your battery, but a failed proper connection is what triggers your temporary malfunction which will go away by itself after the connection is re-established and 3-8 ignition cycles. If that does not work, then look into the switch.
You did not mention you recently disconnected/reconnected your battery, but a failed proper connection is what triggers your temporary malfunction which will go away by itself after the connection is re-established and 3-8 ignition cycles. If that does not work, then look into the switch.
triCkWhisper
Probationary Member
- Messages
- 3
- Location
- Salem, Oregon
The battery disconnect and reconnect repair worked but I ordered a new switch by the time I figured that out. Everything working like it should know. I never would have thought to do that. "Have you tried turning it off and back on" repair technique wins again 
Thx all
Thx all
Jeepwalker
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 973
- Location
- WI
Short answer: Switch, Grounds, Batt connections, Door wires.
Longer explanation:
You can try replacing the switch...module. That might solve the problem long-term (hopefully) ...or maybe not. The module is a computer module (part of the switch assembly) which controls the windows locks and even security, and communicates to other modules (incl the BCM) on the bus network. When the module or electrical path ...it leads to the issues you described. You can disassemble the module and inspect the solder joints and even check the capacitor's ESR (electrolytic capacitors can dry out eventually) ..and even replace the capacitors, or re-do any cold solder joints. If you're into automotive electronics.
The problem you described has plagued H3 owners going all the way back to the beginning. There's a ton of old posts about it. And window module flake-out's happen on other cars too (non GM). Even after replacing the switch, and cleaning the battery grounds (and body grounds), that doesn't often solve the problem long-term for many owners. Just go back and read really old posts or do google searches. What I found on my H3 was the ground below the carpet (under the driver's feet), was badly rusted (from previous sunroof leaks). Since I cleaned that ground ...and trimmed back the corroded wire and a new connector ... I haven't had a single problem. That was 3 years ago.
My theory is that ground is closest to the driver's door/switch (module), and is critical for the electrical path to the BCM and other modules. There's also a ground under the passenger's feet too I would check. You should be able to gently lift off the plastic sill plate by the driver's door, lift up the carpet and peek in there with a flashlight to inspect. Bear in mind the ground wire at the connector could be corroded too. There must be 10 grounds inside the H3 cabin...they're all over ...if you ever have your interior removed.
Another thing to inspect are the wires in the door jamb (both doors). Loosen and pull back on the boot and check them for any which might have frayed, cracked or broken. On a Jetta I owned, out of 24 door wires, all but two had cracked wire jackets, and 3-4 wires were broken and frayed. It may not be your H3's issue, but it's worth the few minutes it takes to inspect ...if only to rule it out.
Good luck!
Longer explanation:
You can try replacing the switch...module. That might solve the problem long-term (hopefully) ...or maybe not. The module is a computer module (part of the switch assembly) which controls the windows locks and even security, and communicates to other modules (incl the BCM) on the bus network. When the module or electrical path ...it leads to the issues you described. You can disassemble the module and inspect the solder joints and even check the capacitor's ESR (electrolytic capacitors can dry out eventually) ..and even replace the capacitors, or re-do any cold solder joints. If you're into automotive electronics.
The problem you described has plagued H3 owners going all the way back to the beginning. There's a ton of old posts about it. And window module flake-out's happen on other cars too (non GM). Even after replacing the switch, and cleaning the battery grounds (and body grounds), that doesn't often solve the problem long-term for many owners. Just go back and read really old posts or do google searches. What I found on my H3 was the ground below the carpet (under the driver's feet), was badly rusted (from previous sunroof leaks). Since I cleaned that ground ...and trimmed back the corroded wire and a new connector ... I haven't had a single problem. That was 3 years ago.
My theory is that ground is closest to the driver's door/switch (module), and is critical for the electrical path to the BCM and other modules. There's also a ground under the passenger's feet too I would check. You should be able to gently lift off the plastic sill plate by the driver's door, lift up the carpet and peek in there with a flashlight to inspect. Bear in mind the ground wire at the connector could be corroded too. There must be 10 grounds inside the H3 cabin...they're all over ...if you ever have your interior removed.
Another thing to inspect are the wires in the door jamb (both doors). Loosen and pull back on the boot and check them for any which might have frayed, cracked or broken. On a Jetta I owned, out of 24 door wires, all but two had cracked wire jackets, and 3-4 wires were broken and frayed. It may not be your H3's issue, but it's worth the few minutes it takes to inspect ...if only to rule it out.
Good luck!
Last edited:
WeArePennState
Member
- Messages
- 8
- Location
- Colorado Springs, CO, USA
Of course, now I am having the same issue. Ugh. I have read the posts and tried several of the fixes -- I replaced switch, disconnected and reconnected the battery after 10 min, etc. The problem goes away after I take the battery terminals off and touch them together and let it sit for 10 min before reconnecting, but then the problem comes back shortly there after. I guess I can try and check the ground under the driver carpet tomorrow -- though I've never had a water leak. Frustrating.
Jeepwalker
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 973
- Location
- WI
When I first bought my H3, the PO told me a trick that 'worked' when the module/windows/locks flaked out. He said pull the driver's switch/module assembly and unhook the battery, and let it sit overnight. Bring the door switch in overnight (in the winter). Then plug it back in, in the morning. It'll go 'normal' again. He was right. I had to do it a couple times every time the windows/locks would go 'goofy', which was every once in a while. But as I reported in a post above, after repairing that ground, and also in there at some point, I also put on new battery terminal ends, I've never had the module issue ....and I'm using the H3's original window switch/module assembly.
But you might also check the harness connection for corrosion on a pin or two, in the A-piller side. As mentioned above, how good are your vehicle's battery cable terminals? When I got my H3, the PO had cut and installed the el-cheapo afternarket terminals where two bolts tighten a clamp for the wires. The wires were kind of loose and also oxidized. They were terrible battery connections. I removed and dipped the copper ends of the cables into some Phosphoric Acid solution to remove the oxidation, then soldered on some high-quality terminals. Something like THESE.
So you'll have to do a little root-cause looking. BTW there are a bunch of grounds all around the inside of the cabin under the carpet. I think I counted like 11?? It's been a while .... Tells you how critical grounds are to the mfgr.
But you might also check the harness connection for corrosion on a pin or two, in the A-piller side. As mentioned above, how good are your vehicle's battery cable terminals? When I got my H3, the PO had cut and installed the el-cheapo afternarket terminals where two bolts tighten a clamp for the wires. The wires were kind of loose and also oxidized. They were terrible battery connections. I removed and dipped the copper ends of the cables into some Phosphoric Acid solution to remove the oxidation, then soldered on some high-quality terminals. Something like THESE.
So you'll have to do a little root-cause looking. BTW there are a bunch of grounds all around the inside of the cabin under the carpet. I think I counted like 11?? It's been a while .... Tells you how critical grounds are to the mfgr.
Happy Hummer
Well-Known Member
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- 1,454
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- Wisconsin
What year are you running?
WeArePennState
Member
- Messages
- 8
- Location
- Colorado Springs, CO, USA
It is a 2009. And while I am comfortable doing most work on the truck, I'm always afraid I am going to muck up battery cables -- which on my truck, are the original cables that I can't get (power) really tight.
Jeepwalker
Well-Known Member
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- 973
- Location
- WI
Perhaps post a detailed picture of the cables. Maybe they're fine???
If they're the originals, they're not "fine" regardless of how they may appear.
Jeepwalker
Well-Known Member
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- 973
- Location
- WI
Some aftermarket clamps can be crap too (like was on mine when I got it).
I would go with the solder-in cable ends, myself. Or crimp-on if you have access to a proper (large) crimper.
I would go with the solder-in cable ends, myself. Or crimp-on if you have access to a proper (large) crimper.
WeArePennState
Member
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- 8
- Location
- Colorado Springs, CO, USA
Next on the list of tasks.
Jeepwalker
Well-Known Member
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- 973
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- WI
Some OReilly Auto's can make up cables with good rubber coated cable. Not the thin stuff you generally see. But I've never had it done ....so ask all the questions and see what you'd be getting in advance. Finer strand wire is better.