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Rascole's SAS build

rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,817
Location
Bellflower, CA
Installed new upgraded power steering pump. Shop cleaned up the vane cavity for more flow and a few more PSI. Had to modify the new cooler a bit, at full compression on the passenger side, the drag link was just hitting the fins. Added a filter that has an internal magnet and some new hose. GM was nice enough to have 2 holes that perfectly aligned with the filter clamp.

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rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,817
Location
Bellflower, CA
Decided to strip all the trim off the H3 and finish my "paint" job, dessert pinstriping was getting bad and clear coat was starting to flake off. 3 years ago I sprayed the roof and hood, the clear coat was pealing off and looked horrible, typical GM problem. The roof and hood have held up really good for 3 years so now was a good time to finish. The Raptor Liner came out great, I'm 9 out of 10 happy with the results. Was hoping for a bit more of smoother finish but it should get better after a few washings or a 3000 grit wet sand.

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The best part of painting anything is prep work. Took longer to do first round of tape than to spray.

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fanugy

Well-Known Member
Messages
150
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Care to elaborate on the settings (psi, coverage, etc) of the raptor liner? That looks a ton better than the Line-X texture, in my opinion. I have a T with real bad paint on fenders that this will solve nicely. . . and picked up another T showing up next Tuesday that paint may also need attention. I would rather Raptor than 6k into a paint job. . .
 

rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,817
Location
Bellflower, CA
Care to elaborate on the settings (psi, coverage, etc) of the raptor liner? That looks a ton better than the Line-X texture, in my opinion. I have a T with real bad paint on fenders that this will solve nicely. . . and picked up another T showing up next Tuesday that paint may also need attention. I would rather Raptor than 6k into a paint job. . .
Used a cheap purple Harbor Freight gun drilled to 2mm but with how I used it the regular 1.4 tip would have been better. I thinned the Raptor to 20% gun pressure was at 60 psi, flow valve was set at 3 turns open. When we sprayed my sons truck with white, the flow valve was wide open and it was too much, we got some tiger stripes but not too bad. It is very forgiving and mistakes are easily fixed.
 

rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,817
Location
Bellflower, CA
Fixed the mess of wire connections at the batteries. Added 2 circuit breakers and a buss bar. The 300 amp breaker allows me to disconnect the second battery when camping so it will preserve starting power.

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rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,817
Location
Bellflower, CA
Finally picked up my motor today. LQ4 10 over, Truck Norris cam and a few upgraded items. Short story is, I forgot to tell the shop I needed a 58x crank so they assembled it with the original 24x crank. Will not be going into the H3 after all, going in my Silverado this summer. But, because of the long delay, I was lucky enough that the shop just got a couple of LS3 blocks, I got one for next to nothing. This one will have a 4 inch stoker kit from Scat, will be a 416 (6.8 liter), 10.5 compression, Truck Norris cam & the usual upgraded goods. But, because he is stacked with work it will be end of year before it's done. The price is worth the wait.
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rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,817
Location
Bellflower, CA
Gut punch today and a big setback. Went to check on my new LS build, was supposed to be done by now. Shop gave me some bad news. During assembly, the mechanic found a crack in the #2 cylinder wall. over an inch long and not repairable. Shop is looking for another block, if they can't find one I might have to go with new.
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rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,817
Location
Bellflower, CA
Well, let's see if the third time is a charm. Dropped off the new to me 6.2 at the shop for a rebuild. It could have been sooner, but the wife decided that the motor funds were better suited to a bathroom remodel. 6.2 L92 will be punched to a 416, Truck Norris cam and mostly stock everywhere else. Per the shop tuner, I will need to upgrade the stock 30lbhr injectors to at least 40lbhr or put a rev limiter @ 5k to prevent lean conditions.
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rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,817
Location
Bellflower, CA
Santa from Rock Auto made a special delivery, last of the big ticket items needed for the swap. Engine should be done in a few weeks then need to nail down a date to start pulling out parts. Going to wait until closer to summer have a couple trips planned to the desert yet this spring.

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rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,817
Location
Bellflower, CA
Broke a rear axle for the first time trying to pull someone out. It was enough for the stars to align, and I bought a 14 bolt. Found a 1999 2500 Silverado FF for $200. Looking for some input from the few that have already gone down this rabbit hole, here is a list of what I have already bought, then a list of what I think I need. Looking for ideas and input, good, bad, and ugly. Need to make it quick and simple for a Rubicon trip this summer for a special occasion. Will add E brake and ABS later. Conner and Chris have already made recommendations, and a truss and anti-wrap will be down the road. All OEM mounts have already been removed, waiting for Barnes parts to arrive. Last picture is proof I did some of the work myself. Big props to my son Derek for doing most of the cutting and cleaning.


Parts already bought:
Yukon Parts
R&PYG GM14T-538T
YokeYY GM14T-1410U
Master Overhaul KitYK GM14T-C
Diff CoverYHCC-GM14T-S
Grizzley LockerYGLGM14T-30
U Joint 1410-1350YUJ1435
Spicer U BoltYY UB-004

Parts I'm thinking about:


Lugnut 4X4 Disc Conversion
BYO w/E-Brake
Barnes 4WD
U Bolt EliminatorB4W0066K
Pinion GaurdB4WK1004H
Shock TabsB4W25026P

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cgalpha08

"Like Nothing Else"
Messages
3,710
Location
Indianapolis, IN
Lookin good Randy.

I went with this truss, gives you some protection against tubes spinning, pinion yoke protector, and fits nicely between the leaf springs with lots of room to spare. I also like how its more U shaped at the pinion vs point, but that really just personal preference.


I also did a "delayed" anti wrap bar, however i did weld the axle end of that onto the axle when i was building it, so that i wouldn't have to do it later, take the axle out, all that jazz. That way I only had to deal with the frame end.
 

rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,817
Location
Bellflower, CA
Nice, just when I think I know what I'm doing, a bunch of more info 😂. Should I do it right the first time and risk a trip in June or quick slap it together, go to the Rubicon, and do it later. Half the suspension parts I need are back ordered anyways, Barnes, Ruffstuff and a few others are out of stock so I may have to piece it together.
 

rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,817
Location
Bellflower, CA
Was considering the U bolt eliminator from Ruffstuff but Chris made a good point about it creating unwanted lift, looked into it and yep, about 3/4" lift I don't need, then I show our fab guy here at work the way the threaded the flat stock instead of using bolts and he laughed. Threaded flat stock for suspension parts is a bad idea he said. Barnes and a few others make a eliminator kit that uses nuts but they are out of stock for what I need. I may just go with plain jane plates and U bolts until a later date.
 

BBYHUMR

Well-Known Member
Messages
62
Location
Texas
Makeshift paint booth.
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Comparing the new Raptor with the old paint.

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Comparing old Line-X to new Raptor.

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i know you did this a couple years back but, do you remember how much product you used to cover the whole truck? I've been considering doing this since the wrap i put on a couple years ago is starting to crack and i'm looking for something with a bit more longevity. also how has it held up since you did the work?
 
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